Still chasing cooling issues (1 Viewer)

[HemiAlex]

mine runs towards the 3/4 to almost to the end of the white on the gauge. i replaced my water pump, tstat, hoses, and fan clutch and it still runs around there. the fan roars on/off when i'm on the freeway. i haven't installed an inline electric gauge like @HemiAlex but it's on the list. IR temp readings are around 195F right after I park.

Try a 10ohm inline resistor and you’ll bring it down in the range on the gauge.

 

[mattressking]

Try a 10ohm inline resistor and you’ll bring it down in the range on the gauge.

Egh. I'm not fond of adding a resistor where it's not needed. I've found that people are running replacement temp senders and they are getting the wrong gauges. The gauges themselves are marked with a range and i've received more than one version from certain *cough* vendors. I've found its key to make sure you're using the correct sender for our generation of trucks, aka getting the right part number from Toyota.

Aside from that, are the top and bottom hoses nice and hot? When you run the heat, the temps go down, as expected. Have you ever made sure you bled the front and rear heaters completely post coolant change? Another item we found is a bubble in the coolant sender. Remove sender slowly (when cold) and wait for some dribble of coolant to come out, tighten.

Are you tracking your coolant level when hot and cold in the bottle, has it been within spec at cold and at hot?

Have you inspected all your hoses front to back for leaks? If you're running hot on freeway, its radiator, waterpump or a leak usually. Fan is out of the picture at freeway speeds (unless 100+).

The system and gauge will work excellent...when it is working correctly. I've battled little hiccups here and there but they all dissipated in time after trial and error and the truck, stock, works flawlessly past 120* ambient.

 

[MoaByte]

I was just going to suggest putting a second sender into the block drain on the rear driver side and leave the stock system separate. I don't know if the 3F is the same but it gives me piece of mind.

 

[HemiAlex]

Egh. I'm not fond of adding a resistor where it's not needed. I've found that people are running replacement temp senders and they are getting the wrong gauges. The gauges themselves are marked with a range and i've received more than one version from certain *cough* vendors. I've found its key to make sure you're using the correct sender for our generation of trucks, aka getting the right part number from Toyota.

In a perfect world I would agree. But I’ve sat in maybe 10 different 60’s and the gauges read all over the place in their home operating temp range.

Mine read high at 189* and I’ve seen some that never moved above 1/3 no matter what.

Once I saw my temp gauge spike with the gas gauge, I knew I could never trust the spread of either gauge. The gauges and wiring differ in resistance from their stated spec as the connections wear over time. My factory gauge is just a suggestion, but adding a resistor made it read in a far more reasonable fashion. When it gets to 210* it’s now finally trending towards red. Before a 7* jump wild have me pulling over.

Old trucks and old problems. The extra temp gauge is money!

 

[joebattle1]

Maybe I’m just being paranoid...

Looks like I finally need to bite the bullet with an after market temp gauge. I like the lil digital one @HemiAlex has. I want to hide it in the glove box or maybe inside my Tuffy.

I’m also of the mind set with @mattressking that the gauge works fine and is reading as it should. Maybe an IR gun first.

Is there a way to piggy back another cable onto the stock sending unit? I’m not a fan of those add on units to the top hose.

I’ll be home from a work trip tomorrow and will give the ol girl a good run and see what she does. Maybe a rip to Stockton to see Georg as I need another alt bracket anyway.

Thank you to everyone chiming in.

Stand by...

 

[DFXR]

Maybe I’m just being paranoid...

Looks like I finally need to bite the bullet with an after market temp gauge. I like the lil digital one @HemiAlex has. I want to hide it in the glove box or maybe inside my Tuffy.

I’m also of the mind set with @mattressking that the gauge works fine and is reading as it should. Maybe an AR gun first.

Is there a way to piggy back another cable onto the stock sending unit? I’m not a fan of those add on units to the top hose.

I’ll be home from a work trip tomorrow and will give the ol girl a good run and see what she does. Maybe a rip to Stockton to see Georg as I need another alt bracket anyway.

Thank you to everyone chiming in.

Stand by...

Joe, I just got the little Koso gauge based on @HemiAlex ’s post (thanks HemiAlex). I’m not a fan of blue LEDs in the cab either but the thing is really, really small. I’m a couple hours from finishing my head job so I’ll let you know how it goes once it’s working.

I don’t know about piggybacking off the stock sender - I think the whole point is to have independent verification, and even better to have two sources of info.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Maybe I’m just being paranoid...

Looks like I finally need to bite the bullet with an after market temp gauge. I like the lil digital one @HemiAlex has. I want to hide it in the glove box or maybe inside my Tuffy.

I’m also of the mind set with @mattressking that the gauge works fine and is reading as it should. Maybe an AR gun first.

Is there a way to piggy back another cable onto the stock sending unit? I’m not a fan of those add on units to the top hose.

I’ll be home from a work trip tomorrow and will give the ol girl a good run and see what she does. Maybe a rip to Stockton to see Georg as I need another alt bracket anyway.

Thank you to everyone chiming in.

Stand by...

can i ask , may i ask , if i missed it ?

why don't you replace the radiator ?


holes leaking out are a 100% sign of internal corrosion too


all that stop leak now has compounded the issues by clogging what good coolant flow you did have ?


stay away from any problem solvers in a bottle , especially from track auto and pep botz !



a CSF all brass new unit can be had for under $450 now .....................fyi

 

[Borrego]

@ToyotaMatt I think Joe said he was on his 3rd new radiator due to leaks in the first 2...

@MoaByte suggested putting a second sender into the block drain on the rear driver side. That sounds like a decent idea. Considering that is a "dead end" in the cooling sytem, does it work? If so, I might do this on mine because I'm not fond of tapping into the upper radiator hose either. And every few years when I drain my block, I don't think it would be an issue to take it out to do so. @MoaByte, can you elaborate on what you did?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I think @wngrog has a good solution to adding a temp sender to the top radiator hose on his Patina 40 if I am not wrong.

 

[wngrog]

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[MoaByte]

@ToyotaMatt I think Joe said he was on his 3rd new radiator due to leaks in the first 2...

@MoaByte suggested putting a second sender into the block drain on the rear driver side. That sounds like a decent idea. Considering that is a "dead end" in the cooling sytem, does it work? If so, I might do this on mine because I'm not fond of tapping into the upper radiator hose either. And every few years when I drain my block, I don't think it would be an issue to take it out to do so. @MoaByte, can you elaborate on what you did?

That's where I screwed in the temp sensor of the Holley Sniper. I don't remember the size, but it screwed in without adapters. It follows the factory gauge well. Max temp last summer with AC on was 203°. I put a new CFS, water pump, factory hoses and clamps, and 190° thermostat a few years ago. I was able to burp the system on short 4x4 trips with steep inclines.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@wngrog knows his Sheet

 

[HemiAlex]

The koso gauge must be used with the koso radiator hose adapter. It’s BSPT stuff.

I don’t like the look of the upper radiator hose adapters but I also don’t like the look of coolant all over. I’ve been there.

I also thought about tapping the thermostat housing with a BSPT tap to make it look a little more original

 

[HemiAlex]

can i ask , may i ask , if i missed it ?

why don't you replace the radiator ?


holes leaking out are a 100% sign of internal corrosion too


all that stop leak now has compounded the issues by clogging what good coolant flow you did have ?


stay away from any problem solvers in a bottle , especially from track auto and pep botz !



a CSF all brass new unit can be had for under $450 now .....................fyi

I hated my CSF. I paid $350 and the coating came off in 2 years and it leaked from a pinch weld in under 4.

I’ll buy an oem 62 manual trans radiator from overseas for $600 next.

 

[HemiAlex]

Joe, I just got the little Koso gauge based on @HemiAlex ’s post (thanks HemiAlex). I’m not a fan of blue LEDs in the cab either but the thing is really, really small. I’m a couple hours from finishing my head job so I’ll let you know how it goes once it’s working.

I don’t know about piggybacking off the stock sender - I think the whole point is to have independent verification, and even better to have two sources of info.

Glad to help. I wanted it to be green as well, but not enough to bother me

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I hated my CSF. I paid $350 and the coating came off in 2 years and it leaked from a pinch weld in under 4.

I’ll buy an oem 62 manual trans radiator from overseas for $600 next.

can't you still get a life time warranty one somewhere ?

1-800- radatior ?

 

[wngrog]

I’ve never had an issue with any CFM radiator.

 

[vipergrhd]

My CSF also leaked after just over a year and I did flush the cooling system since I also replaced the water pump. I did keep the old radiator I just need to find a place to repair it but I found this on the interweb.

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3-Row Performance Aluminum Radiator, fits Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 1981–1990

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www.mishimoto.com

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Aluminum is a BaD choice

 

[cruisermatt]

not if made by a quality brand and mounted correctly (the important part). Mishimoto makes really nice stuff I wouldn't hesitate to use any of their products.