they were of no help. I tried.
I’m running a champion 3 core aluminum and it runs cool. I expect it to leak soon enough.
I bought the one for the top rad hose. Folks have said it pushes the hose into the power steering pump. I’ve thought to trim mine at the flange, both ends to make it less lengthy. Have not yet...
Another option is to put a secondary sensor into one of the BVSV holes on the tstat housing... that’s my first choice.
Yes I just got the auto gauge sensor today. Little smaller than I hoped to match the vac one but I prefer the older look. It came w/ two fittings.. 3/8” and 1/2” npt. I haven’t pulled the port yet. Want to be sure the adapters will fit w/o too much messing around.I don't really have need to add a secondary temp sensor to my truck this point as my OEM seems to function fine. I do understand the usefulness of a secondary however and if I ever needed it I would try to use the lower BVSV port on my tstat housing as stated here. I currently don't use the lower port as I am desmogged and its just plugged now with a plug from Toyota. Is there a known sensor that would fit in these that lower tstat port? Does the OEM sensor fit in that port? Is that what you mean here Felicity? If memory serves it seems the OEM sensor is a bit bigger than the tstat opening but without getting out and looking this AM I can't be sure.
Ground that thing and it won’t be a problem. There’s an electrical charge built up when the coolant flows across the cast iron. When combined with the brass radiator there’s no problem. But the aluminum will begin to electro plate the cast iron eventually leading to pin holes in the aluminum. Stick some copper wires in the “fins” of the rad core and attach to a ground point. Or alternatively you can buy a rad cap with a sacrificial electrode that discharges the coolant.yes , the Borates in any antifreeze coolant oem RED or Ghetto Green , will eat it all up like Thermostat housings we all see to attacked
like the ZOMBIE Etching Apocalypses