orangefarmer
SILVER Star
I'm getting ready to purchase new speakers for the School Bus. It's been a long time since I have messed with this kind of stereo stuff. I have decided to go with the Kicker KS line of speakers. 6.5" component in the front door with Solve Function's a-pillar tweeter mount (I already have them), 4" in the back doors, and 3.5" in the dash and the rear roof. I'm doing this on the attempts to keep the factory grills. I believe that the 6'5" woofer is shallow enough to clear the window rail with a top mount depth of 1 13/16. Has anyone specifically put Kicker speakers in?
I am planning on running the 6'5"s and the 4"s off of an amp. Thinking one with around 100 watts rms per channel. The 6'5's can handle 125, and the 4's 75. I figured that I can just turn down the channels with the 4's. and still have most of the power for the 6.5's. I plan on running the 3.5's off of the head unit. they might be a little under powered (spec's at 29w rms). It might be too little for a 50w speaker, but this way I figure that I can keep each corner connected (one powered, one not) to be able to adjust the audio. Is this a good plan? Should I get a bigger amp to make the 6.5's happier, and should I be getting another amp (like a mini amp to replace the stock amp) for the 3.5's? this would bring the total to 3 amps.
I also have the LAST rear speaker mount from WholeHog. I actually bought the guy's personal one. It has a pioneer, but I am planning on replacing it with a Kicker comp (because I like things to match.
I already have the head unit. An Android model made by Atoto. Mostly because it has dual bluetooth so that I can have my phone and my TOYOBD1 reader hooked up.
I am having a shop run all new wire and sound deaden as part of the install.
I think that this should be a good set up. I would like thoughts. Maybe I missed something.
Thank
**Edit** 4" in the dash, not 3.5". And wondering about speaker baffles on most of the speakers. In the doors they will held with weather, I'm wondering if the headliner and dash could benefit from having a sort of enclosure,
I am planning on running the 6'5"s and the 4"s off of an amp. Thinking one with around 100 watts rms per channel. The 6'5's can handle 125, and the 4's 75. I figured that I can just turn down the channels with the 4's. and still have most of the power for the 6.5's. I plan on running the 3.5's off of the head unit. they might be a little under powered (spec's at 29w rms). It might be too little for a 50w speaker, but this way I figure that I can keep each corner connected (one powered, one not) to be able to adjust the audio. Is this a good plan? Should I get a bigger amp to make the 6.5's happier, and should I be getting another amp (like a mini amp to replace the stock amp) for the 3.5's? this would bring the total to 3 amps.
I also have the LAST rear speaker mount from WholeHog. I actually bought the guy's personal one. It has a pioneer, but I am planning on replacing it with a Kicker comp (because I like things to match.
I already have the head unit. An Android model made by Atoto. Mostly because it has dual bluetooth so that I can have my phone and my TOYOBD1 reader hooked up.
I am having a shop run all new wire and sound deaden as part of the install.
I think that this should be a good set up. I would like thoughts. Maybe I missed something.
Thank
**Edit** 4" in the dash, not 3.5". And wondering about speaker baffles on most of the speakers. In the doors they will held with weather, I'm wondering if the headliner and dash could benefit from having a sort of enclosure,
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