Step by step intake/exhaust manifold removal? (1 Viewer)

[LandoNick]

I was looking and didn't see a comprehensive list. Is there a step by step in pretty good detail.

A while your there list

What should be replaced: Studs, other Hardwear, horn gaskets/rings, carb. gaskets, heat shield for carb?

is there common item that breaks? snap studs? Then what is the best practice to fix it.

Will get Both manifolds machined together.

I assume Toyota gasket?

 

[bcolvin]

I was looking and didn't see a comprehensive list. Is there a step by step in pretty good detail.

A while your there list

What should be replaced: Studs, other Hardwear, horn gaskets/rings, carb. gaskets, heat shield for carb?

is there common item that breaks? snap studs? Then what is the best practice to fix it.

Will get Both manifolds machined together.

I assume Toyota gasket?

Here is a thread I posted awhile ago which might help.

Intake/Exhaust Manifold Refresh items

In the middle of my Desmog and I have decided to change out the manifold gaskets as I am sure they have not been done in a very long time. As has been the case with nearly all the maintenance on this vehicle. I have a machine shop locally who does this work and has been recommended by...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[bcolvin]

If I did it again I would go with the remflex gasket. Seems thicker and it might give a little more room for error

 

[4runner2FJ60]

+2 Remflex has worked great for me! Follow Remflex torque values. If everything is stock you might want to get rid of the heat riser flapper in the exhaust manifold as it can get stuck and or leak alot. This caused me to do this job twice. Its easier the second time. If you are splitting the two apart you need to machine true like you said, otherwise check per FSM if it is in spec. BE CAREFUL when splitting.....You can strip the aluminum in the intake manifold removing a stubborn bolt as well. Don't ask how I know.

 

[LandoNick]

+2 Remflex has worked great for me! Follow Remflex torque values. If everything is stock you might want to get rid of the heat riser flapper in the exhaust manifold as it can get stuck and or leak alot. This caused me to do this job twice. Its easier the second time. If you are splitting the two apart you need to machine true like you said, otherwise check per FSM if it is in spec. BE CAREFUL when splitting.....You can strip the aluminum in the intake manifold removing a stubborn bolt as well. Don't ask how I know.

Educate me on the flapper? Emissions?

Replace all hardware?

 

[CruiserTrash]

I’ve done this three times now, so addition to what’s been said I’ll add:

-New studs, bolts, washers, and nuts are available from Toyota. This made the job MUCH easier

-A new carb base plate is always nice. You can be 100% sure you don’t have a vac leak there if you just get a new one.

-if you’re machining the manifold and really doing the works, go ahead and replace the rings and springs in the horn. Available new from Toyota.

-Get the carb rebuilt if it hasn’t been. May as well drop a well-running carb back on top.

-Since it’s coming out anyway, check the flange on the j-pipe. Flatten it out and re-weld the tube to the flange if it’s cracked even a little. (This is if you’re smogged, otherwise a block off plate and gasket will take its place)

-Address the heat riser flap and consider a block off plate between the manifolds. There are lots of ways to skin this cat and a search will explain them all.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

All that was said above. That back firewall bolt is a PITA. On the second time, I threw the towel in and ordered JT outfitters headers. The flapper mentioned has a heat activated spring so the warm exhaust helps warm the bottom of the intake manifold on cold starts, as it heats it closes when working correctly. It can get stuck open and too much heat has cracked intake manifolds. Mine was working but leaking like crazy at the mounts it swivels in front and back.

 

[LandoNick]

All that was said above. That back firewall bolt is a PITA. On the second time, I threw the towel in and ordered JT outfitters headers. The flapper mentioned has a heat activated spring so the warm exhaust helps warm the bottom of the intake manifold on cold starts, as it heats it closes when working correctly. It can get stuck open and too much heat has cracked intake manifolds. Mine was working but leaking like crazy at the mounts it swivels in front and back.

Can I just remove the Flapper entirely? I have no experience with the headers. But I have heard there are sum quality issues.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Yes you can, and then you will need to plug the holes in both sides. There are pictures on here of this. Then you need to install a block-off plate. I took the path of lesser resistance.

Its been said before already, but once you take the two manifolds apart you will need to get them machined when together again.

Headers were Jet-Hot coated, Highly recommended!

 

[4runner2FJ60]

One thread about heat riser flapper.

I still havn't figured out linking with a text box to thread?

 

[LandoNick]

To the header folks out there. When you buy a new set of headers does there still have to be the machine work with the intake manifold? So the mounting service is the same?

 

[4runner2FJ60]

I didn't need to, I think it eliminates that because the two are no longer bolted together. You do need to make sure the bolts are engaged on both flanges evenly however. Some guys get machining done, others cut washers etc to even it out. Mine all sat really nice without any modification.