Steering Wobble Post 35's (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 22, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
16
Location
Nor Cal
Firstly, been lurking for a while and wanted to say thanks to the MUD community for all the shared knowledge. Definitely wouldn't have my cruiser in its current state with y'all.

For background I have '04 LX and bought it completely stock. Since then suspension mods include - AHC delete, OME 2.5 lift, diff drop, sway bar extension links front/back, new front wheel bearings, new cv's (not OEM), new rotors (not OEM), and upgraded my tries to 275/70r18 Duratrac's. At the point of these mods, never had any issue or wobble of any kind.

Recently, I upgraded to 315/75r16's KM3's and with it some new SPC UCA's and wheels. Got everything buttoned up as best as I could and went in for an alignment at an off road suspension shop.

It was an alignment from hell as I asked the sales guy explicitly if they had any experience with these specific UCA's and the kid more or less blew me off and said 'we'll manage it just fine'. Not confident in his response I told him I'd be staying there until it was done in case they needed a consult. After like 4 plus hours I realized they didn't know what was going on and I went in and asked if they have been rotating the star pate to achieve the desired +4 deg caster. They had no idea what I was talking about despite me providing the instructions *sigh*, and anyways from there we got cracking on everything after setting UCA's to position A (only way we could get close to +4 deg). The supervisor who eventually took over from his tech then worked on my alignment and got everything just about where we wanted it.

I headed home, and immediately after hitting about 40 mph I noticed the wobble. Took it back in the next day and our alignment numbers were all out of whack and the supervisor had a lot of trouble getting caster back in line and at this point we all wanted to be done with this alignment - mostly satisfied with the numbers you see below I headed home with the wobble still there. Next day, I had a feeling that maybe the tire balance was out of whack as I did notice recently that one of the weights looked to be coming off my new wheels (from what I hear can be common at times), and took the truck back to get the tires balanced. Tires rebalanced now and wobble is still there - again right at about 40 mph. No wobble under 40 and I'd say no wobble at about 50 mph.

Sorry for the long post but just wanted to help rule out any of the usual suspects. At this point the only thing I can point my figure to is maybe we need to hit the toe-in to -0.1? I know 0 toe can be problematic for some vehicles but wasn't sure if that's also the same case for our trucks? Last data point is that the guys at Costco where I got the balance done said the wobble is sometimes a symptom of the KM3's (not sure about that logic but if anyone can validate please share). They said they jacked it up and spun the wheels and the wobble was still there and there wasn't anything else they could do and that they checked for anything being loose and said it was all good. If that's the case then maybe the toe-in doesn't matter? Anyways getting out of my element here and thanks in advance for any advice.

1655232346969.png
 
Good luck. Why so much caster what is the benefit? I have SPC as well and run about 2 degrees with no issues.
 
Take this with a grain of salt as I am for sure no expert, but my research left me with the understanding that there really aren't many cons to positive caster so long as you are not going to the extremes (i.e. like + 6-10deg - if I'm not mistaken tractors have something like +10 deg so I would imagine we don't want our rigs to be set up like a tractor). Pros include better straight line tracking - in our case would help tracking over ruts and uneven pavement. As one does approach the extremes of positive caster what gets taxed are the steering components. So maybe with the 35's and additional caster could be a problem? I am not really sure what the limits of these 2 variables are.

But with all that being said I am not sure if +2 deg additional caster relative to your +2 deg should generate steering wobble?

@hoser - I referenced some of your posts on the SPC UCA threads for deciding for more + caster. Any thoughts on the above?
 
@hoser Went with these after seeing some someone on MUD install them and still get the center cap on. Wouldn't the rears have issues too if there were fitment issues?

KMC KM542 IMPACT 16X8 5X150 0 Satin Black:

WHEEL SPECS
More Information
BrandKMC
Product NameKM542 IMPACT
Part NumberKM54268058700
FinishSATIN BLACK
MaterialCast Aluminum
Size16X8
Bolt Pattern5X150
Backspace4.50
Offset00mm
Bore110.10
Weight26.1 lbs
Load2500
Lip Size1.51
PatentD899999
 
Your wheels could certainly be the issue. Almost all Tundra and 200 wheels will fit the rear. The 100’s front protruding hub can be issue for some wheels.

Swap back to stock wheels to be sure. Or take a close up picture of the front hub with the center cap off. Might see the issue there.
 
Your wheels could certainly be the issue. Almost all Tundra and 200 wheels will fit the rear. The 100’s front protruding hub can be issue for some wheels.

Swap back to stock wheels to be sure. Or take a close up picture of the front hub with the center cap off. Might see the issue there.
Thanks @hoser

I think you’re right it seems like the wheels. Pretty shocked as I saw these ‘successfully’ installed on other 100’s. How far down the river am I? Any possible work arounds ?
 
You should confirm exactly what the issue is before me or anybody can offer a solution.
 
You should confirm exactly what the issue is before me or anybody can offer a solution.
It’s wheel fitment. Confirmed there’s a gap between the hub and the wheel. Also confirmed others did not have an issue installing these same wheels
 
My guess is there is rust/crud around your front hub. Take a wire brush, sand paper etc and clean it up.
 
Take this with a grain of salt as I am for sure no expert, but my research left me with the understanding that there really aren't many cons to positive caster so long as you are not going to the extremes (i.e. like + 6-10deg - if I'm not mistaken tractors have something like +10 deg so I would imagine we don't want our rigs to be set up like a tractor). Pros include better straight line tracking - in our case would help tracking over ruts and uneven pavement. As one does approach the extremes of positive caster what gets taxed are the steering components. So maybe with the 35's and additional caster could be a problem? I am not really sure what the limits of these 2 variables are.

But with all that being said I am not sure if +2 deg additional caster relative to your +2 deg should generate steering wobble?

@hoser - I referenced some of your posts on the SPC UCA threads for deciding for more + caster. Any thoughts on the above?
Arguably more caster means less consistent road contact when turning
 
Do you think it was a manufacturing defect in the bore size? Anyway to swap the rears to the front for example and see if that gap is still there? I know those front hubs can be a little finicky, I had a custom set of beadlocks made by race line with a 110.3 bore … zero offset. I have a 2006 and there seems like there’s just the tiniest little lip in there. I had them drill it at 110.3 vs 110.1 as to try to get it to seat flush. Is that small gap between the wheel and the hub perpendicular to the axle, meaning that the bore is too large? Or is the gap between the wheel and how it seats on the flange so to speak? So it doesn’t seat quite flush?
 
Do you think it was a manufacturing defect in the bore size? Anyway to swap the rears to the front for example and see if that gap is still there? I know those front hubs can be a little finicky, I had a custom set of beadlocks made by race line with a 110.3 bore … zero offset. I have a 2006 and there seems like there’s just the tiniest little lip in there. I had them drill it at 110.3 vs 110.1 as to try to get it to seat flush. Is that small gap between the wheel and the hub perpendicular to the axle, meaning that the bore is too large? Or is the gap between the wheel and how it seats on the flange so to speak? So it doesn’t seat quite flush?
Thanks for the insight @Escape Artist - Had a chance to look at the fitment a little more closely as I was also thinking the bore size could be a mfg defect or quality escape.

After checking again its clear that the wheel is not clearing the flange - couple questions about this:

1. Hub bore for the KMC wheel above is spec'd to be 110.1 (again not sure if that this is actually what I got). The rears seem to fit fine and the fronts seem to be the only ones with issues - with that being said though, if I widen the bore on the wheels wont that effect the hub centricity? I guess ultimately I'm confused as to how hub centricity works. The OEM wheels obviously dont care if its going on a front or rear axel. So is that to assume that the OEM wheel has a larger bore than what I am working with and can fit over the front axel flange? But if the front flange requires a larger bore than the rears, doesnt that mean if I widen the bore to clear the flange that it would be too large (and thereby not hub centric) on the rears?
2. Does anyone know the OEM bore for 2004 LX 470 wheels?

Just to took my truck to a wheel shop to get it measured and they'll be ready to open the bore up. Does anyone know already a prescribed bore size that works or do you think I am ok to let them work their magic and dial it in themselves?
 
FWIW, I have the same wheels with no problems. It's a pretty popular wheel for 100's.
 
FWIW, I have the same wheels with no problems. It's a pretty popular wheel for 100's.
@okoverland Man you're not the first person to say that this wheel works with no issue and now I'm even more confused. I actually selected it simply because I saw a good amount of other people use it on MUD.
 
@okoverland Man you're not the first person to say that this wheel works with no issue and now I'm even more confused. I actually selected it simply because I saw a good amount of other people use it on MUD.

Yea, same here. No spacers, wheel caps fit, etc, etc. Same reason I selected it.

Sorry you are having an issue. I bet those tires and wheels look awesome. Hope you get it sorted.
 
Take a file or a grinder and file the high points on the front hub. I had this issue when trying to run Bora spacers and aftermarket wheels. They wouldn't seat on either front wheel properly. I took a grinder to some high spots and was able to get them on no problem. Here's a thread...

 
@rslimbers did you ever get this resolved? When I put my 35s and bead locks on, I had a little bit of an intermittent steering wheel shake now and again. For me, it turned out to be that my tire and wheel package came with balancing beads, but the knuckleheads just threw the entire bag of balancing beads in there without emptying them out of the bag. The additional plastic clog my valve stems and seem to climb some of the balancing beads together. I had to break the tires down myself, a pain in the ass with beadlocks and clean them out, replace my valve, stems with Apex rapid deflate, and put new balancing beads in, and it’s been smooth as silk ever sense
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom