Steering damper fitment (1 Viewer)

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Sep 13, 2012
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481
Location
fort smith, arkansas
Hey guys, I’m having trouble figuring out exactly what’s happening with my new OME steering damper. I have all new steering joints, a freshly rebuilt box, and the truck was turning, driving just fine. I ordered a new damper to replace the last old part on this steering setup and it’s shorter than the old one. It is the correct PN (23) from OME. As the wheelers are dead straight, the damper is maxed out! Which means I can’t turn left. I have the PDF of the FSM, I’ve been reading through all morning looking for something that’s not right, but I’m at a loss. Any help please? Here’s some pictures of the wheels at full straight. If something looks wrong please let me know.

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My quick answer was going to be that it’s too short and the specs are wrong.

I dig a little deeper. It looks like (25) is for a 40 based on SOR site. 60 series use an even longer stabilizer, but they would require moving the fixed mount on the frame… I’ll be there soon in my P/S conversion.
 
I go back to my original statement… perhaps they sent the wrong part.

OEMSD23 is listed as the correct part on other sites for a 40.
 
I go back to my original statement… perhaps they sent the wrong part.

OEMSD23 is listed as the correct part on other sites for a 40.
The stamped PN on the damper is the 23 number, was first thing I checked. I decided to attach the damper and then see how off the steering was, I couldn’t even get the linkage hooked up. Doesn’t make any sense to me.
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Call the supplier… only explanation is that it’s not the right part or it’s defective.
 
Call the supplier… only explanation is that it’s not the right part or it’s defective.
I mean, I suppose it’s possible. But every vendor and th ARb parts catalog says it’s correct. Does anyone else have an ome steering damper they can measure?
 
My question would be was the steering setup per the FSM before installation?
 
Might be this mount. They come from the factory riveted on not with bolts. Mines still riveted and appears to be mounted a little further away from the passenger frame rail than yours is. Perhaps the P.O. moved it to add a longer stabilizer? If so just move it back.

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Might be this mount. They come from the factory riveted on not with bolts. Mines still riveted and appears to be mounted a little further away from the passenger frame rail than yours is. Perhaps the P.O. moved it to add a longer stabilizer? If so just move it back.

View attachment 3136011
Well shoot hot dang. That’s the issue! Thanks, I’ll see about getting it back to the factory location.
 
This is definitely my issue, appears a PO moved it further to the passenger side and bolted for some reason.

Good catch @cruiserkev

My bet is that it was moved over to use a longer, possibly 60 series, steering stabilizer. I’m about to do this for a steering conversion.
 
Good catch @cruiserkev

My bet is that it was moved over to use a longer, possibly 60 series, steering stabilizer. I’m about to do this for a steering conversion.
this was my thought as well, im going to try and get some measurements on how long a 60 one is, and compare to the old one i have. if it is a 60 stabilizer, ill just make note and leave it as it is.
 
Here are specs on the Monroe steering damper I purchased. For Saginaw P/S conversions many eliminate the steering damper, but I’m choosing to run one.

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this was my thought as well, im going to try and get some measurements on how long a 60 one is, and compare to the old one i have. if it is a 60 stabilizer, ill just make note and leave it as it is.

So long as you’re still using the bel-crank there’s no benefit to the longer 60 series damper. Mine is moved to the TRE on the driver’s side using a pickup TRE and travels further. I’ve adiósed the bel-crank.
 
So long as you’re still using the bel-crank there’s no benefit to the longer 60 series damper. Mine is moved to the TRE on the driver’s side using a pickup TRE and travels further. I’ve adiósed the bel-crank.

im sure there is no benifit, but if i dont have to grind out the old rivets and redrill new holes to move the bracket back to the oem location, i wont lol.
 

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