Steering Conversion

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Several years ago, I broke my upper arm in three places. This makes it almost impossible to steer my older (1969) FJ40. It has a 350 Chevy engine and stock 3 speed tranny (floor shift). The steering column appears to be "non-original" (?).

My question: What EXACTLY do I need to convert to power steering? Conversion kits are very confusing. I am thinking I want to do a Saginaw conversion but some say there is a Saginaw pump and gear box, others say to use a 4Runner box and still others say a Chevy S-10. Anyone have ACTUAL experience with an older ('69) FJ40
 
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I have a 70, the kits being confusing is a matter of the different boxes create different mods necessary & each one has it's own personal solutions to various clearance issues, example - the saginaw conversion are different box mounting position and pitman arm used depending on SOA or SUA, what arms your using, drag link over spring, etc....You can use the saginaw, a mini box, fj60, 4 runner,thats personal choice, I like the saginaw, it requires minor frame mods where box mounts and some column work in the engine bay and adding the pump to the 350 is easy, a finned billet cooler, steering effort is easy, pitman arms for whatever rod ends you are using will be easy to find and the boxes are like $150 ish at parts houses. Search for a 76 Jeep J10 pickup or a J20 (starts in 77 I think) , there are 2 boxes for these applications, both work(identical) except the J20 one has a larger piston.Both are 4 turn, 13/16 input IIRC.

The saginaw you will need : a box, a frame plate, a pressure line & a return line, an engine bracket( pick N pull) and belt, order the P pump 4501 or 4105 , can't recall, from PSC with pulley you need and that pump has different resiviors you can use a remote or get it with a ham can style. You'll need to buy some borgesen U-joints , slip shaft, and fab up the column, you'll need 1 bearing to put in the end of the column tube in the engine bay. You will need a welder to fab the new slip shaft into the column, u-joints, and mounting the box plate. Minor cutting is needed on the front cross member to get box into proper location. There are scab plates sold that you weld back in to strengthen the cut area of the crossmember. Yes the steering shaft will rub or almost rub the inner edge of frame right behind the shock tower(just a bit forward of it but you get the picture). Once the column and box plate are done mount box, run hoses.
You will need a pitman arm with a taper end that matches whatever drag link end you run, won't know if it will be a straight arm or bent until you have it all mocked up.
You will most likely need a new drag link, and set your steering stops so it does not use the box as the stop.
Search the sgainaw conversions to see the different mount positions. If you are SOA the tilt of the box makes a difference on the end of pitman hitting the spring pack at full left turn, a horizontal mount position is better for SUA and the amount the box is pushed into the front cross member effectd the drag link clearances so thats why the box position is important, its not a huge difference in position but the tilt and amount pushed back can solve minor issues or create them.
 
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I have a 70, the kits being confusing is a matter of the different boxes create different mods necessary & each one has it's own personal solutions to various clearance issues, example - the saginaw conversion are different box mounting position and pitman arm used depending on SOA or SUA, what arms your using, drag link over spring, etc....You can use the saginaw, a mini box, fj60, 4 runner,thats personal choice, I like the saginaw, it requires minor frame mods where box mounts and some column work in the engine bay and adding the pump to the 350 is easy, a finned billet cooler, steering effort is easy, pitman arms for whatever rod ends you are using will be easy to find and the boxes are like $150 ish at parts houses. Search for a 76 Jeep J10 pickup or a J20 (starts in 77 I think) , there are 2 boxes for these applications, both work(identical) except the J20 one has a larger piston.Both are 4 turn, 13/16 input IIRC.

The saginaw you will need : a box, a frame plate, a pressure line & a return line, an engine bracket( pick N pull) and belt, order the P pump 4501 or 4105 , can't recall, from PSC with pulley you need and that pump has different resiviors you can use a remote or get it with a ham can style. You'll need to buy some borgesen U-joints , slip shaft, and fab up the column, you'll need 1 bearing to put in the end of the column tube in the engine bay. You will need a welder to fab the new slip shaft into the column, u-joints, and mounting the box plate. Minor cutting is needed on the front cross member to get box into proper location. There are scab plates sold that you weld back in to strengthen the cut area of the crossmember. Yes the steering shaft will rub or almost rub the inner edge of frame right behind the shock tower(just a bit forward of it but you get the picture). Once the column and box plate are done mount box, run hoses.
You will need a pitman arm with a taper end that matches whatever drag link end you run, won't know if it will be a straight arm or bent until you have it all mocked up.
You will most likely need a new drag link, and set your steering stops so it does not use the box as the stop.
Search the sgainaw conversions to see the different mount positions. If you are SOA the tilt of the box makes a difference on the end of pitman hitting the spring pack at full left turn, a horizontal mount position is better for SUA and the amount the box is pushed into the front cross member effectd the drag link clearances so thats why the box position is important, its not a huge difference in position but the tilt and amount pushed back can solve minor issues or create them.
Thanks=still a little confusing but it helps a lot!
 
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Depends on what size tires and whether you will be doing serious off road. Solid axle Toyota mini truck steering box mounts in the stock location with an adapter I believe and is probably the easiest, but is only good up to ~33"-35" tires due to lack of power and relay rod location interference. Relay rod and center link pivot is retained.

FJ60 or IH scout or Astro Van boxes mount just forward of front shock tower on the side of the frame and will eliminate the relay rod and center link on the stock steering setup. This is good for larger 35-37" tires and mild to medium off roading. I'm doing an FJ60 PS mod on mine one of these days.

The Saginaw boxes typically allow for almost "1 finger" steering and will be best for very large tires and serious off road use. Mounts in front of front cross member (requires a big hole cut through the cross member) and will require the most fabrication/modification. Saginaw boxes are easier to find and cheaper.

Electric power steering is where the stock steering system is maintained, but a new steering column with an electric motor helper senses the steering and provides the boost to make the steering easier. Not sure how this would fit with your aftermarket column. Some use Toyota Prius (maybe others) electric steering parts to do a DIY electric power steering mod.

None of them are super easy bolt in. All will require some creativity, fabrication and modification.
 
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I did 60 series power steering in mine and love it. Turns 35s easily. Getting the old steering parts out was the hardest part of the conversion. Drilling the frame, welding up a new relay rod and steering linkage was required but wasn't very difficult. Wish I had did this 20 years ago!
 
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Electric steering assist also available, if you want to go that route. Broke multiple little bones in my foot jumping over a fence, after being bitten by a large dog. What happened to your arm?
Of all things, I tripped on a broken sidewalk and hit the sliders on my wife's (ex) Xterra. Previously broke both ankles goose hunting, left knee twice (First, in Alaska while halibut fishing; second on a broken sidewalk), wife just broke her knee on a broken sidewalk. Both diagnosed with osteopenia.
 
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I have a 70, the kits being confusing is a matter of the different boxes create different mods necessary & each one has it's own personal solutions to various clearance issues, example - the saginaw conversion are different box mounting position and pitman arm used depending on SOA or SUA, what arms your using, drag link over spring, etc....You can use the saginaw, a mini box, fj60, 4 runner,thats personal choice, I like the saginaw, it requires minor frame mods where box mounts and some column work in the engine bay and adding the pump to the 350 is easy, a finned billet cooler, steering effort is easy, pitman arms for whatever rod ends you are using will be easy to find and the boxes are like $150 ish at parts houses. Search for a 76 Jeep J10 pickup or a J20 (starts in 77 I think) , there are 2 boxes for these applications, both work(identical) except the J20 one has a larger piston.Both are 4 turn, 13/16 input IIRC.

The saginaw you will need : a box, a frame plate, a pressure line & a return line, an engine bracket( pick N pull) and belt, order the P pump 4501 or 4105 , can't recall, from PSC with pulley you need and that pump has different resiviors you can use a remote or get it with a ham can style. You'll need to buy some borgesen U-joints , slip shaft, and fab up the column, you'll need 1 bearing to put in the end of the column tube in the engine bay. You will need a welder to fab the new slip shaft into the column, u-joints, and mounting the box plate. Minor cutting is needed on the front cross member to get box into proper location. There are scab plates sold that you weld back in to strengthen the cut area of the crossmember. Yes the steering shaft will rub or almost rub the inner edge of frame right behind the shock tower(just a bit forward of it but you get the picture). Once the column and box plate are done mount box, run hoses.
You will need a pitman arm with a taper end that matches whatever drag link end you run, won't know if it will be a straight arm or bent until you have it all mocked up.
You will most likely need a new drag link, and set your steering stops so it does not use the box as the stop.
Search the sgainaw conversions to see the different mount positions. If you are SOA the tilt of the box makes a difference on the end of pitman hitting the spring pack at full left turn, a horizontal mount position is better for SUA and the amount the box is pushed into the front cross member effectd the drag link clearances so thats why the box position is important, its not a huge difference in position but the tilt and amount pushed back can solve minor issues or create them.
I have a 78 FJ 40, just got the body off for the big (last?) restoration.
This time it will be adding power steering and air conditioning. Is there anything you would add or modify to what you wrote above?
 

Brost

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Assuming none of the mentioned kits/methods will work on a column shift?

OP this might be your easiest conversion.
 
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Well in regards to a restoration which maintains stock or close to stock but adding power steering there are conversions which look better and require less mods, especially if you maintain the original motor and steering rods, it also depends on what use the rig will see.. The saginaw is more of a offroad, heavy use, modified suspension type deal where as a resto might be more happy with the toyota power unit that bolts in the original pedestal location, I'll see if I can find a thread on it and send it to ya.

In regards to the "Bolt on Saginaw" thread posted above, I don't know if I agree with the front crossmember being cut is a problem per say, seen it go both ways, crack and tear or be just fine after 20 years on 37's +, soa, used, so IMO just check it and if you see it cracking, repair. The bumper/front cross you make or use will also help or not help secure that frame horn thus reducing or allowing flex at that corner where steering box hole was cut. I will say that my front frame horns twist, enough that the hood hoop and body move noticably and my son says, "Dad theres something wrong, look at that " still no cracks but after 20 years I definitely see and feel the rivets loosening and the frame flexing more, time to soften the suspansion, I'm old and tired of bouncing anyways.
 

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