Steering/brake wobble / replacing front rotors question (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 11, 2019
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Location
BC, Canada
So my 80 has developed a wobble in the steering wheel and some pulsating in the brake pedal when on the brakes. Its worse when going downhill.
My obvious suspect is a warped rotor, but what's throwing me off is that it doesnt seem to happen ALL the time. Sometimes there is noticeably more or less wobble when traveling at the same speed, and it seems random. I also hear an audible "clunk" coming from one of the front calipers when applying the brakes for the first time after driving, leading me to believe there is something loose in the caliper/pad area - could this be causing the wobble also? *also* this seemed to start getting worse after I got the left half of the LC stuck in a ditch and had to get it towed out, it feels like it could use an alignment - can this be another contributing factor? I'm not sure where to start eliminating the variables...

Assuming it is the brake rotor, I'm curious if it would be better to get the rotors machined or just get new rotors all together? Being that the hub is affixed to the rotor I'm wondering if it makes more sense just to get new rotors since it's all gonna have to get taken apart to remove them. Also, what new parts would I need to replace if doing this job (whether machining or new rotors) - i know i'm probably gonna need a new drive flange gasket and probably a lock washer for the spindle nuts - am i missing anything? Will I need to repack or replace bearings?
I know all this stuff comes in a kit for rebuilding the knuckles, but I'm not sure where to source the individual parts. Lordco/Napa never seem to have what I need in that department.
 
They can machine rotors with just tires off, if I remember right, no need to remove em from axle

I would replace rotors if original and lots of miles on them though, probably not in spec to machine...to thin with wear but they will let you know

calipers sound like they are sticking, might be time to replace...this was one problem I had, I got remans from Napa, Eclipse series if they still carry em
 
Thanks for the tip about machining - will contact the local brake shop and ask.
There is noo way the calipers are sticking, I replaced them brand new + pads barely a month ago!
 
First thing I would check would be your caliper bolts (2 bolts per caliper on backside). A clunking noise is very suspicious and could be your caliper shifting/clunking forward as you apply your brakes. If one of those bolts were to fall out, your caliper will either clunk forward when hitting the brakes or grind/wedge up against the inside of your wheel while reversing...this depends on which bolt were to come loose. I’d especially look at these bolts first since you mention putting new calipers and pads on recently.

Another thing to check is your knuckle studs (4 on each side underneath the steering knuckle.). Should be a stud, cone washer, flat washer, and nut on each one. Check to make sure each one is snug with a wrench...17mm or 19mm I think.


If neither of these are suspect, consider new rotors or look for other possible culprits. I’d definitely go with new rotors over machining.
 
Check to make sure the wheel bearings are properly adjusted, no free play with proper pre-load. Consensus is ~30 lbs and ignore the factory procedure nonsense using a fish scale.
 
A sticking caliper will also cause wobble.
 
In the event that i do need to replace the rotors - is it possible to do this without having to repack the wheel bearings and replacing the seals? Is it possible to unbolt the hub from the rotor without having to get into the innards, replace bearings/races etc?

I had rebuilt the front knuckles November 2019, so I assume the bearings don't need to be repacked unless there's no way around it.

I'm trying to gather a list of all the minor parts needed for this job. So far i know for sure i'll need new drive flange gaskets if im removing the rotors.
 
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In the event that i do need to replace the rotors - is it possible to do this without having to repack the wheel bearings and replacing the seals? Is it possible to unbolt the hub from the rotor without having to get into the innards, replace bearings/races etc?

I had rebuilt the front knuckles November 2019, so I assume the bearings don't need to be repacked unless there's no way around it.

I'm trying to gather a list of all the minor parts needed for this job. So far i know for sure i'll need new drive flange gaskets if im removing the rotors.
Front brake rotors, no. They are inboard and require hub removal to be removed.

Rear brake rotors, yes. Remove the wheel and caliper and they come right off.
 
Front brake rotors, no. They are inboard and require hub removal to be removed.

Rear brake rotors, yes. Remove the wheel and caliper and they come right off.

More specifically, what im wondering is if it is possible to remove the hub from the old rotor and bolt it onto a new rotor and leave the bearings and oil seal intact. Or if along with replacing the rotor i also need to replace new bearings & oil seal for the hub?
 
More specifically, what im wondering is if it is possible to remove the hub from the old rotor and bolt it onto a new rotor and leave the bearings and oil seal intact. Or if along with replacing the rotor i also need to replace new bearings & oil seal for the hub?
I would ALWAYS replace the seal, but I would also clean and repack the bearings. Do not need to replace the bearings.
Mostly because the process of removing and replacing the rotor will knock grit into the grease inside the hub.
 

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