Steer problems (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 6, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
14
Location
63390 (Wright City, MO)
I have an 81 hj47 diesel. I put all new steering components on my truck including a rebuilt steering box. I still feel the steering has too much slop. Do I need to convert the steering and if so how should I go about it. I do not have power steering.
 
Do I need to convert the steering


No.


It worked correctly at one point in time, no need in reinventing the wheel.

Put the front on jackstands and find where your slop is at, tie rod ends, steering box, wheel bearings, dig in and look.
 
you state all new steering components? what was replaced?
did you rebuild the center arm?
this is not a modern rig
have someone rotate the steering wheel and see what component has any extra movement
 
you state all new steering components? what was replaced?
did you rebuild the center arm?
this is not a modern rig
have someone rotate the steering wheel and see what component has any extra movement
I replaced at the tie rods, rebuilt center arm, new steering stabilizer shock, and rebuilt box. The new box was a "round two" addition. The steering has definitely improvement, but its not good enough plus I do not like having manual steering. The rebuilt box was the cheapest only $250 so that could be the problem. However with that being said I would rather do a power steering conversion with a gm box. I've seen conversions for gas fj40 but I'm not seeing much a kit for a hj47 diesel. Does such a thing exist or do I have to piece one together myself?
 
What is wrong with the non power steering setup?


Have you tried to locate exactly where the slop is coming from?
It would probably be best to identify the root cause of the problem before you go changing things up, you may just end up working on a art that really isn't the problem.

How's your rag joint?


Describe this "slop" to us. Does it wander around on the road, can you steer from 3 to 9 o'clock with no response, is it lifted, need shims????????
 
What is wrong with the non power steering setup?


Have you tried to locate exactly where the slop is coming from?
It would probably be best to identify the root cause of the problem before you go changing things up, you may just end up working on a art that really isn't the problem.

How's your rag joint?


Describe this "slop" to us. Does it wander around on the road, can you steer from 3 to 9 o'clock with no response, is it lifted, need shims????????
[/QUOTE
Thank you for your help on this one. It drives fine down the road. The problem is the 9 to 3 slop. It is all factory.
 
how much in inches does the steering wheel rotate before turning the tires? side to side
is this LHD or RHD?
 
how much in inches does the steering wheel rotate before turning the tires? side to side
is this LHD or RHD?
LHD. It feels like you are driving an old tractor down the road. The steering box moves instantly but it seems like there are too many joints and they all add up to delayed steering response. That is why I am thinking about converting it.
 
on jackstands can you move either tire side to side, or top to bottom?

is there any play between the tires when it's up on stands?

Hows the drag link? Center arm?
 
LHD. It feels like you are driving an old tractor down the road. The steering box moves instantly but it seems like there are too many joints and they all add up to delayed steering response. That is why I am thinking about converting it.


it is an old tractor. if all the joints are tight and have no movement in them there is no delay in steering.
if you want to convert it go ahead, it is your rig.

when converting to PS you will only reduce the # of joints by 2, if going with a 60 box, scout or Saginaw setup

how much in inches does the wheel move before the tires turn?
 
There's a lot of info and a few videos here... You'll also see similar Mud conversations, going back a dozen
Years.


Do you have an FSM? I never leave home without mine... @Trollhole has some FSMS here


Also FSM discussions here

 
You should be able to reach into the engine compartment and grab the rag joint above the steering box and see how much it turns before the pitman arm moves. It’s not rocket science.

Just because it was rebuilt doesn’t mean it was set or adjusted properly.

When I put GM ps on my 45, using a rebuilt box from Napa, the drive home was the scariest ride I ever had in a Landcruiser. Specifically adjusted by the rebuilder and inked with yellow paint that would void the warranty if disturbed, I calculated that my life was worth more than a steering box warranty and reset the sector myself.

I am still getting satisfactory service from that box 11 years later.
 
  1. I agree with 3_puppies that you are only eliminating two tie rod ends with a Saginaw or FJ60 P.S. conversion, BUT you are also eliminating the front bell crank (which is an additional middle-man that adds slop/operations between steering wheel and tire).
  2. Ever tried running slightly more air in the front tires, wider front tires want to walk all over the road.
 
So, I'm no expert, but here's what the experience I have has taught me. The FJ60/1 is one of the worst steering cars ever produced. It's incredibly 'dead', has bad under-steer - but in a weird way that you have to keep turning the wheel more through a turn. I have $20,000 lb commercial trucks that steer better. Part of it is due to the 0 degrees of caster they use with these rigs. Add a little caster and it will 'feel' better. I've got power steering, I've converted to an 80 box, put on expensive hi-steer kit and it still steers like s***. I've never been able to find that can explain it.
 
I'm thinking home run is:
  1. 3 1/2 turn Saginaw box instead of 4 1/4 turn box, gives better feel of the road, not as mushy.
  2. Add slightly more caster.
  3. Add slightly more air in front tires
 
I'm thinking home run is:


  1. Add slightly more air in front tires
  2. Add slightly more caster.

3. Saginaw box

Fixed it for ya. :)
 

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