Starting my LS Swap-Questions for those who have (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 24, 2013
Threads
41
Messages
161
So about a year ago I purchased an 05 Yukon Denali, the LQ9 in it had low oil pressure. Luckily there was no damage to anything internally and everything was close to factory spec numbers. So new a new oil pump, rings and bearing went in and I put her back together. I went through the 4L65E as well and installed aftermarket clutches and a shift kit. So now I have a fresh engine and trans ready to go in my 80. I am pretty mechanically inclined and did a swap on my 73 FJ40 8 years ago.

Exhaust:
I am in California and I am planning on do the swap and keeping it legal for the road and smog. This mean I need to keep the factory headers. Has anyone on here done this? I know most of you end up just using block huggers.

Engine Mounts:
I have also seen a handful of different engine mounts being use. Has anyone successfully fabed their own engine mounts using the factory Toyota mounting locations? I am not sure if this will make the engine sit higher than it should or not.


I know I can use the search function to find other thread(and I have) but if any of you have any suggestions or comments on things that you would have done differently that would be appreciated as well. I am never against learning from my own mistakes. But I prefer to take advantage anytime I can learn from someone else's first.
 
You can use aftermarket headers and still be emissions compliant I believe. Just need to have cats and secondary o2's. OEM 80 evap system won't really work for emissions compliance unless you modify it. @White Stripe has a build where he adds GM evap/purge to the stock Toyota tank. Basically, the PCM controls when to open the purge/vent depending on fuel level and tank pressure.

With regards to motor mounts, most of us use Dirty Dingo mounts. You can modify the stock mounts to work with some fabrication, but it might be easier to just use universal mounts. Engine position will depend on your intake/oil pan/lift so it might be better to have some flexibility versus being stuck in one spot. You are gonna want the intake to be almost rubbing on the hood while the PS pump is as close as possible to the drivers frame rail. I used the dirty dingo mounts and I have measurements for where I placed the mounts if you end up going that way PM me.
 
Last edited:
You can use aftermarket headers and still be emissions compliant I believe. Just need to have cats and secondary o2's. OEM 80 evap system won't really work for emissions compliance unless you modify it. @White Stripe has a build where he adds GM evap/purge to the stock Toyota tank. Basically, the PCM controls when to open the purge/vent depending on fuel level and tank pressure.

With regards to motor mounts, most of us use Dirty Dingo mounts. You can modify the stock mounts to work with some fabrication, but it might be easier to just use universal mounts. Engine position will depend on your intake/oil pan/lift so it might be better to have some flexibility versus being stuck in one spot. You are gonna want the intake to be almost rubbing on the hood while the PS pump is as close as possible to the drivers frame rail. I used the dirty dingo mounts and I have measurements for where I placed the mounts if you end up going that way PM me.

Not in California, aftermarket headers have to be CARB compliant, and any that are usually bolt in like factory ones do. You can only modify exhaust from cats back. Yea I saw a few people that used the factory GM level sensor and equipment from the EVAP. That is probably what I will end up doing. I'll check out dirty dingy mounts. I am planning on using a goat built bracket to run a Yotk 210 air pump as well so I will need it to sit lower. I am running a Camaro oil pan. Any issues with the GM AC compressor being in the way of the frame rail? I have seen some people have to use lowering brackets.
 
I have no issues with ac clearance. If the engine is high enough shouldn't have any issues. I have about .5 inch of clearance from the crossmember to AC tensioner.
IMG_20200322_172620.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'm waiting on mounts from Land Cruiser Shop as Wompom linked above.

FWIW, Jonathan Ward of TLC and Icon said it's hugely beneficial to use as much as possible of the GM factory motor mounts because they're engineered to isolate the LS vibration. That's not what I'm doing because I don't have a 220v welder to work with that sort of material thickness.
 
I'm waiting on mounts from Land Cruiser Shop as Wompom linked above.

FWIW, Jonathan Ward of TLC and Icon said it's hugely beneficial to use as much as possible of the GM factory motor mounts because they're engineered to isolate the LS vibration. That's not what I'm doing because I don't have a 220v welder to work with that sort of material thickness.


That is interesting. I have the entire truck I pulled the engine out of. I was thinking about cutting those frame mounted horns off the GM chassis and welding them onto the 80 frame. They are gigantic mounts though if I remember correctly.
 
Check out MarkN’s engine mounts:
This is how I would do it if I was starting another 80/LS swap.



I’ve used these mounts on both my 80 and62:
Simple, inexpensive. I’ve had no issues with them, but using the stock GM mounts is the way to go, IMHO. Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
I'm also waiting on The Cruiser Shops motor mounts.
 
You‘re going to have problems trying to use the stock exhaust manifolds. They exit right on top of the frame rails. Might be able to get away with ones off an LS3.
 
The problem I see with The Cruiser Shop’s motor mounts is that you are stuck with the position that they used for engine placement. If you have the fabrication skills and equipment, make your own and put the engine exactly where you want it. Looks like they use urethane bushings, just like the Randy Ellis Design kits.
 
@dude47 nice find on the LQ9, but you might reconsider the 4L65. I don't say this from experience, but from the reputation of the 4L60 family of transmissions (so treat this with an appropriate level of attention). You'll need to buy a Marks adapter specific to your trans. Why not trade up to a 4L80 and buy a transfer case adapter for that? You'll have a stronger trans to cope with that all that high compression six liter goodness.
 
@dude47 nice find on the LQ9, but you might reconsider the 4L65. I don't say this from experience, but from the reputation of the 4L60 family of transmissions (so treat this with an appropriate level of attention). You'll need to buy a Marks adapter specific to your trans. Why not trade up to a 4L80 and buy a transfer case adapter for that? You'll have a stronger trans to cope with that all that high compression six liter goodness.

Im not towing, the 4l65 is what came in the truck behind the LQ-9 from the factory and I made a few upgrades tot he internal to strengthen the weak points. I know lots of people running 4l60/700r4 transmissions who have had no problem. The people that have problems are usually ones that make poor decisions with the skinny pedal or tow more than they should, or a combo of the both. I don't foresee any issues and would rather have the better ratios of the 4L60 series.
 
Your 2005 donor may have a DR44 2 wire alternator. If you do then review these links to convert to a 4wire set up. Hope this helps!

start at post 534
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom