Starting issue. No crank, no click (1 Viewer)

[Killdozer1776]

Battery is newer. Fully charged. Terminals and cable ends are clean.

Turn the key, nothing happens.

Tried rowing through the gears or starting in neutral, no dice.

Held the key, unlocked steering wheel tilt, moved it up and down and it cranked. Started normally for a few days except once I had to repeat the above.

Now no matter what I try, it doesn't crank and no click from the relay.

Took the cover off the steering column and all the wires look new.

At a loss now. Any ideas?

 

[hockryan]

Im having the same issue with my 100 series except I hear a click when turning the key everytime. Maybe try a new starter relay. I just tried a new one but it didnt fix my issue, still hunting down my problem. Good luck

 

[Jeff Elliott]

Start here:

Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck)

For updates or revisions, please PM me, nuclerlemon or semlin The below is a troubleshooting guide if your in the boonies to help isolate a non starting vehicle problem. This is a compilation from forum members, specifically RavenTai, KliersLC, Landtank and Beaowulf. This will not catch each...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Marco Lau]

Sounds like starter.

 

[Desert Dino]

tap on the starter and at the same time turn the key if it starts then it's your starter

 

[robnicko]

are you getting dash lights coming on when turning the key? if not check your fusible link for continuity

 

[Killdozer1776]

All the dash lights and headlights etc all work. Only the starter doesn't.

I'm going to check the wiring to the NSS and the starter solenoid as per the old threads posted above. As well as tapping the starter

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Couple thoughts:
1. Try jumping it for kicks. Sometimes I've seen that work. If that works then your battery or battery terminal connections are bad.
2. As others have said, solenoid on starter stuck. Try tapping on it while trying to start.
3. NSS grey barrel connector corroded. If all instrument panel shift indicator lights don't work properly and or Reverse lights out, then that is more than likely the culprit. FYI, the actual NSS is a very well designed/sealed unit and is very rarely the issue.
4. Another likely issue could be the trigger wire from ignition switch to starter solenoid is compromised. Could be broke, disconnected or degraded. Degradation of this wire is a know problem and I have resolved this by adding the Ford Solenoid mod to the starter circuit on all 80's I maintain.

 

[cruxarche]

Couple thoughts:
1. Try jumping it for kicks. Sometimes I've seen that work. If that works then your battery or battery terminal connections are bad.
2. As others have said, solenoid on starter stuck. Try tapping on it while trying to start.
3. NSS grey barrel connector corroded. If all instrument panel shift indicator lights don't work properly and or Reverse lights out, then that is more than likely the culprit. FYI, the actual NSS is a very well designed/sealed unit and is very rarely the issue.
4. Another likely issue could be the trigger wire from ignition switch to starter solenoid is compromised. Could be broke, disconnected or degraded. Degradation of this wire is a know problem and I have resolved this by adding the Ford Solenoid mod to the starter circuit on all 80's I maintain.

Number 3. At least for me.

 

[Killdozer1776]

Already tried jumping it. No change.

The wires to the NSS are intact.

The starter solenoid is nearly impossible to see. I can't locate the wire to the small stud. I can see the main power wire on top but that's about it. What's the best way to get to it?

 

[Killdozer1776]

Got the starter replaced. No crank still. Will use a test light to see what I can figure out. Will probably end up putting in a button to the starter

 

[gummycarbs]

Held the key, unlocked steering wheel tilt, moved it up and down and it cranked. Started normally for a few days except once I had to repeat the above.

Sounds like either an imaginary correlation, or you're being rough enough to shift something connected to the ignition switch wiring.

I'd start by cleaning the ignition switch connections with De-Oxit or at least CRC contact cleaner. Also, the large black connector on the underside of the steering column.

A test light is unlikely to help you, since there can be enough resistance in the circuit to prevent the starter solenoid plunger from properly plunging while still passing enough current to light a test light.

 

[cruxarche]

Already tried jumping it. No change.

The wires to the NSS are intact.

The starter solenoid is nearly impossible to see. I can't locate the wire to the small stud. I can see the main power wire on top but that's about it. What's the best way to get to it?

Did you specifically check the NSS connector? Mine was corroded and the source of my ignition issues.

 

[Killdozer1776]

NSS connection is fine and reverse lights work as well as not shifting to neutral with key out. Fuseable links get power at the connector.

No power to the starter solenoid. Test wire from battery to solenoid starts it right away. So wiring in a push button for now. No time/desire to take the steering column apart.

 

[BILT4ME]

Do you have a CEL with the ignition in the RUN position, engine off?

 

[gummycarbs]

No time/desire to take the steering column apart.

You don't have to do anything to the steering column. Just pull the kick panel below the steering wheel.

 

[Killdozer1776]

Do you have a CEL with the ignition in the RUN position, engine off?

All dash lights are on with key in acc position. When I turn the key the only light that goes out is the digital clock in the center dash

I might just keep this push button. Kinda cool.

 

[bigredmachine]

check your fuseable links, they can corrode internally and cause a hard/no start condition. for the cost of the links its an easy part to replace

 

[Killdozer1776]

check your fuseable links, they can corrode internally and cause a hard/no start condition. for the cost of the links its an easy part to replace

Yes good idea but I checked. They're old but there's power through all of them. I will replace them and get a spare set anyway. I've checked the common causes.

Kinda weird but after I put the new starter in, I got a faint click when turning the key. Now with the exciter wire off and the spade wired to the button, no click.

 

[bigredmachine]

Yes good idea but I checked. They're old but there's power through all of them. I will replace them and get a spare set anyway. I've checked the common causes.

did you ohm them out with a volt meter or just check for voltage, you may be getting the voltage and not the amperage. the new starter would have new contacts so that would help a bit even if thats not the issue