Starting a 1973 FJ40 Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[BridgeGuy]

I did notice the, I believe it's the oil squirter, and it was lined up perfectly with the slother aiming dead on at the intersection of the timing gears.

I pulled the number 3 piston and there's a sticky spot at one point on the pin but nothing major. The bore is stock with absolutely NO ridge at the top on any hole, all the pistons run up and down the bore smoothly, the valves all work in the correct order and cursory measurements seem like they are all getting good lift, etc. with no valve train issues.

Everything continues to point to a stock engine that just encountered something bad. I'm still trying to figure out why there is so much carbon in this thing but apparently the PO had a penchant for fiddling with the carbs on all his cars as he went up and down in elevation during hunting trips. We don't j nm own about this one in new particular but my dad did know him and remembers that he was incessantly fiddling with the carb on his Carry-All during one trip back in the early 70'stages so maybe he wasn't as quite as proficient as he would have liked.

Dad's got some decisions to make on this as ultimately it's his money and his FJ.

I've been trying to find out more about front different on the board. This is a stock drum brake different with an integral front cover. From looking at different sites, did some front different come with a removable front cover similar to the rear? Also, for a front disc brake swap I'm leaning towards finding a 75+ front end and just swapping it out so I can keep this one intact. Is there a specific year that would have fine spline birfs, disc brakes, and a removable different cover that I should be looking for that would be a direct bolt-in?

 

[FJ404X4]

I second keeping getting the original motor running. They're good motors and it doesn't kill value in the end. Nice looking rig and doesn't appear to have much rust.

 

[BridgeGuy]

Just reread my post and I just have to say: new phone and autocorrect SUCK!!

 

[BridgeGuy]

That's what is killing me. With the exception of the glove box being rusted out (the weatherstripping at the base of the windshield was not installed correctly) the worst rust is in the corner of the top side where it rests on the tub and that doesn't appear to be full-depth.

It is completely apart and I have been trying to find anywhere I may have missed some (especially every time I read about another place prone to it) and thus far we're getting incredibly lucky.

Even normally difficult fasteners (e.g. flare nuts on brake and air injection lines) aren't being horribly tough.

Time to talk with dad again as he was leaning toward a Vortec at this point which will definitely add to the time necessary to get this done.

 

[thebigredrocker]

After you pulled the valve cover, did you clean up the rocker shaft assembly? Looks awefully clean. Like maybe it wasn't getting oiled.

 

[BridgeGuy]

There is actually a lot of oil on the rockers. Cup plugs are still half full (or were) of oil, fairly consistent coating on everything with no real wear evident on valve stems, rockers, etc. Got me all excited when I opened it as it looked pristine compared to what I am used to finding on the typical SBC for example.

No corrosion or rust to speak of. It was truly depressing to get the timing cover off and see that chunk slide into the pan.

 

[algeeba]

I vote that you keep the six cylinder whether you rebuild or update to a 2F. Ultimate reliable engines. My '64 wagon has a PO chevy 327 in it with a turbo 350 auto and I really wish it had the six banger and manual transmission. Maybe one of these days. To me the chevy and auto are boring and I love looking/hearing/working on/thinking about/feeling, etc.. the six cylinder in my '78.

By the way, any real reason you feel the need to go fine spline and disc brake? My dad (76 yrs. old) is the original owner of his '73 and he has no complaints about the all around drum brakes and has never had a problem with the coarse splines. He still goes four wheeling granted it is not severe rock climbing. My 19 yr. old is currently driving the '64 and has no complaints about the drum brakes either. He actually feels that any vehicle with disc brakes are too "sensitive" when braking.

That I know of, no cruiser came with a front differential inspection cover.

 

[skully3]

There is actually a lot of oil on the rockers. Cup plugs are still half full (or were) of oil, fairly consistent coating on everything with no real wear evident on valve stems, rockers, etc. Got me all excited when I opened it as it looked pristine compared to what I am used to finding on the typical SBC for example.

No corrosion or rust to speak of. It was truly depressing to get the timing cover off and see that chunk slide into the pan.

in your case what you found doesn't really affect the rebuild. You are actually ahead of the game if the rockers and cam, lifters etc. are all in good shape. Find a crank and one domed piston assembly and your on your way. Just do it and don't look back. a swap of any kind will take more time than it takes to rebuild this motor. Judging by your posts about the rust and brakes, it sounds to me you want things right. So even if you decide to pick up a used 2F or small block it will need to be rebuilt before it goes in.

just a note..a crank should be real easy to find.

 

[BridgeGuy]

Shifting gears while we continue to revisit plans on what we're doing, it's been a lot of years since I've done bodywork. With that said I've always been a fan of PPG DP primers but apparently there have been LOTS of changes and not necessarily for the better.

I've been reading like crazy and need some input to help sort out a good option. Getting the tub and body pieces blasted but as it will be in primer for at least a month or two while the bodywork is being done I don't believe an epoxy primer is the right choice but I'm an engineer, not an auto body specialist.

What would be a good plan in regards to protecting the bare metal while providing the best base for the top coat yet allowing for the time I need to do the bodywork?

I know. I'm basically wanting the best of all worlds with none of the detriments. I can dream can't I?

On a related note: I'm not a fan of undercoating but am I missing something? Even in Kalifornia using salt on the road doesn't happen anymore as it's not environmentally "friendly ".

That is an issue with paint products as well as we "lead" the country in regards to the most idiotic laws around.

 

[Weber Sarge]

As far as proper prep coatings prior to painting - talk to a shop if it's going to sit for awhile , they will have the best advice and not let you make a mistake .
I would never ditch using the stock style inline six - there is no V8 capable of that torque curve other than maybe a Chrysler 440 , which actually weighs just a bit more than the stock engine - but talk about drive train overkill...

Sarge

 

[BridgeGuy]

It's been awhile, but things appear to maybe be back on the move....finally.

After the obligatory family vacation to Texas for high school graduations, work issues, and TONS of soul searching, Dad made up his mind and we pick up the "new" (to us at least) engine on Saturday.

There's still a TON of stuff to be decided upon. Dad really wants a manual transmission and initially the plan was to find a NV4500 but that is rapidly turning into a hard transmission to find for a decent price as when you add up the Advance Adapters pieces and parts to make the SBC/NV4500/TLC transfer case ends up costing a LOT more and even going with a 4L60E is still a rather pricey proposition.

While there is literally no chance of this FJ ever leaving the family (dad already knows that when he's done with it for whatever reason, it will be mine and after me, both of my kids and my nieces are clamoring for their chance to have it) so in some respects I wish we had opted to go with an F engine (especially for speed and ease of getting this done!!), part of me is still excited about having enough power, fuel injection, etc.

I am finding those links on the Tech Tips webpage which are dead and am about halfway through a listing to submit to the mods so that page may be updated while I'm trying to find all the information possible related to the best possible location and the other changes necessary to complete the switch as now I'm behind in ordering parts and would prefer to not re-invent the wheel as far as installing he new mounts and such.

Part of me is still experiencing remorse at switching out from stock, but part of me is excited. Very conflicted, but the decision has been made and hopefully we will back on-track and getting more progress.