Starting a 1973 FJ40 Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 11, 2016
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Location
Northern Kalifornia
First off, thanks for having such a great resource for people like me! Coming from a Chevy background, it's been quite a learning curve trying to learn any and everything possible about FJ40s. I'm rapidly becoming a major fan of FJs and IH8MUD is a lot of that reason. If everything for the FJ just wasn't so expensive, I would seriously consider getting rid of my 74 K5 and switching over...before this project is over, that may yet happen.

When I was a kid, my dad had a 1970 FJ40 that was the first new vehicle he ever bought and eventually (as the family grew) he was forced to get rid of it. Fast forward over 40 years and he acquired a 1973 from a friend where it apparently had spent more than a few years being home to various flora and fauna.

About 3 weeks ago we finally got started on getting to work on this to see if we can get it put back together for him. What began as (optimistically) a short-term project has morphed into what is going to be a frame-off. If nothing else, to try and get all the "junk" out from everywhere.

This has forced me to learn a LOT about FJ40s (remember, I've been old-school Chevy for years) in a very short period of time. Initially we planned on using the F engine/3-speed but as the F engine is DOA, the cost of rebuilding it is basically more than converting to a small-block and, after talking to some of his friends, my dad is onboard with the conversion as well.

Now I'm rapidly trying to find out all there is to know (I know, futile isn't the word) about what would be a good conversion, what transmission to use, transfer case, etc. as well as which adapters to use, and on and on and on.

I guess the good news is that even with all the junk everywhere, the only really severe rust I have found thus far is the glove box. With that said, the fiberglass topper comes off tomorrow (it's free right now, I just didn't want to risk pulling it off solo and dropping it) and from an initial look while getting it loose, it appears that the gutter does not have corrosion issues to speak of. Of course the water was getting in to the glove box from somewhere so I'm more than a little apprehensive to see the bottom of the windshield cowl as I may yet find major damage.

I'm currently leaning towards an OME lift to improve the ride and give him a little more capability, but I'm open to any and all suggestions as to capable lifts that don't beat him to death driving down the highway.

At this point, he wants to use it as a hunting rig (mostly for getting to where he hunts more than as an off-road "blaze a trail" to hunt) type of rig as he IS 72 after all (I just hope I'm as active as he is when I'm 72!)

I guess the best part about this is that he has been saving and planning for this and it will truly be nice to be able to work on something without having to scrimp and save for everything. He's anxious to start buying all the parts so once we can make the final decisions, we can get moving more quickly. At this point, we're working on getting the tub stripped and off so it can head to the soda blaster or dipper along with the frame (albeit sandblasting on that one).

I found out today that I actually had not taken any photos of it prior to starting (other than the engine and some of the interior) but hopefully will add some as this thing progresses. Hopefully more quickly than I'm used too since the resources are available!

Anyway, I just wanted to not be such a "lurker" and thank everyone for all the information as there is definitely a learning curve associated with this project.

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Last night was a good night. Didn't get much done as short on time (work is intruding on playtime...got to rethink this) but we finally got the tub removed. Thanks to lelandEOD's build thread as the engineer in me was REALLY over thinking how to move it and after seeing his setup I rethought my plans and everything went seamlessly. I keep forgetting to post pictures if the dash knob retaining nuts as I really don't want to booger them up getting them off.

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Lots of good Cruiser knowledge here in northern California. Keep us posted!
 
You have a very nice, original truck with uncut fenders, Aisan carb, OEM radio, red heater hoses and no rust. I urge you to reconsider the Chevy conversion.

Roger,

OE PCV hoses were red; OE heater hoses were black. And the red was a dark, brick red. I can get to some examples on Monday.

Mark
 
To be honest, originally I was pushing the Chevy conversion as, well, I really know and like the power plants. I was also having a tough time finding a replacement F or 2F. I'm still learning so don't know if this is a 1.5?? It has the factory oil lines going to a spin on filter on the left side but I'm still not at 100% as to what constitutes a 1.5.

I haven't had a chance to open the engine to see why it's seized but with my luck it will because everything went south at once.

That said, I'm now trying to convince my father that this is actually in MUCH better shape than I originally thought. Knock on wood, I have yet to find anything but surface rust in everyplace I've looked - except the actual glove box itself. Even the cowl is fine which makes me wonder HOW the glove box saw water (everytime I read another thread about where rust hides in these I run to check that spot. )

I'm really hoping to talk him into another F or 2F and maybe limiting this to putting in a 4 speed, new axle with disc brakes, or other strictly reversible changes. Knowing that coolerman has all the connectors and wire to rebuild the factory harnesses makes it a LOT more tempting to keep things as stock as possible instead respects so I totally appreciate what you're saying.

For as poorly as this was treated it is in amazingly complete condition - well, except now there are more than a few broken bolts to be removed (after going through 4 cans of PB Blaster and we're just starting on the frame and suspension tonight.)
 
Ditch the PB - it works ok at best .
Try a can of Aero Kroil or look up Ed's Red recipe and make some . Just be certain to keep it well sealed so the acetone doesn't leak out and don't use it on anything you want to save the paint on - it will remove paint quickly or at least damage it .
For really stuck parts , you can also try the paraffin wax (canning wax) trick - heat the bolt/hole good and hot , melt in the wax against the joint and let it cool a bit . Stuff almost always screws right out . Be aware that on porous metals and even steel that wax will penetrate and not come back out completely , so paint jobs can suffer later so be careful .

Between my old Harris torch , and the 3 things above - I've never had a fastener beat me yet .

Sarge
 
Over time, I have become more of a fan of the smoke wrench. Just pulled all 12 of those tiny screws in @DSB345 's 2F air cleaner heat riser without a hitch. JIS screwdriver also makes a difference.

When we did the 'Phoenix' marathon build on @Land Cruiser Junky's LV, it was @66LV's job the whole weekend to drill out the broken bolts from the other 14 mechanics (term used loosely!)
 
Ditch the PB - it works ok at best .
Try a can of Aero Kroil or look up Ed's Red recipe and make some .

Thanks Sarge! Are you talking about the se Ed's Red that you use for bore cleaning? That I have on hand but I've never heard of using it for stuck bolts. If so I'm thrilled as having multi-tasking chemicals would be great!

My biggest regret thus far is originally I planned on replacing most hardware with the kits from SOR, etc. and now I wish we had tried harder to save them as I want to go with cad plated and finding true JIS fasteners that don't have "washer " heads is proving more difficult than anticipated.

I'll grab some Kroll today! Thanks again.
 
Your next purchases NEED to be a good flashlight and some heavy rope.








You are going down the rabbit hole!

Welcome to the addiction!

Mark
 
... It has the factory oil lines going to a spin on filter on the left side ...

That would be a F motor, correct for a '73. Looks to be very complete, even the emission junk that is often gone, likely original to the rig?
 
That would be a F motor, correct for a '73. Looks to be very complete, even the emission junk that is often gone, likely original to the rig?
The best I can tell, EVERYTHING is original and there. There are some damaged parts due to neglect, but all the emission system is intact, etc. It appears that the cable operated water valve on the block still works, heater high & low both work, etc.

There is an "F" on the pad on the right side of the block but the stamped number differs from the VIN. Is that normal for a FJ40 or would that indicate an engine replacement at some point?

So many questions and so much planning (and even more spending!!)
 
+2 on the Aero Kroil. I learned to spray the bolts and let it sit for 24 hr's. Then again a 1/2 hour before removal. Sometimes you need to spray it them several times. Also, working it back and forth works great to keep them from breaking. It looks like you are already on your way though.
You remind me of me when I first started on my rig. You learn so much by just taking one apart and then trying to put it back together again.
Good Luck to you!
As far as the number on the block, The F means it's a F motor and the numbers are the ID of the motor. You can go on SOR.com and look up the block number and see what year and month the motor was made.
Land Cruiser Engine Numbers
 
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X2. It's an F motor. I would not even put in a 2F. I would rebuild this motor. You will then have a numbers matching truck that is getting very hard to find. That will pay for itself.

This is the type of truck a top tier restoration shop would love to use as the basis for a high dollar resto. In a way it's too bad you've got such a good truck on your hands, because you are now obliged to go down the rabbit hole!
 
Like me? :rolleyes:

X2. It's an F motor. I would not even put in a 2F. I would rebuild this motor. You will then have a numbers matching truck that is getting very hard to find. That will pay for itself.

This is the type of truck a top tier restoration shop would love to use as the basis for a high dollar resto. In a way it's too bad you've got such a good truck on your hands, because you are now obliged to go down the rabbit hole!
 
...
There is an "F" on the pad on the right side of the block but the stamped number differs from the VIN. Is that normal for a FJ40 or would that indicate an engine replacement at some point?
...

Normal, if it were a dealer replacement, would just have F in that spot.
 
Yes , bore-cleaning Ed's Red recipe works amazingly well on stuck fasteners . The acetone in it makes it penetrate so much better than anything a retailer could sell safely - just be careful with it .

Mark made a really good point I missed - JIS screwdrivers . In my sig line is a link to the Vessel drivers site and a discount code for MUD I had one of their reps set up for us . With the correct driver for those cross headed JIS screws (not Philips !!!) and the correct penetrating oil most fasteners can be saved and re-plated . Finding JIS compatible oval heads and such is very difficult outside of Toyota , Honda or the Japanese bike manufacturers . Finding JIS standard aeromotive size heads for hex head bolts/nuts is also extremely difficult and expensive , especially in stainless steel . Aeromotive fasteners what many manufacturers like Toyota specified for their products - this results in smaller wrench sizes for a given bolt diameter - such as 12mm heads on 8mm bolts . Another issue is almost all fasteners on Cruisers are metric fine thread - they pretty much self-lock and can handle much higher loads , which is why they are so very hard to break loose . Add that to everything else and it's the reason I drive people to try as hard as possible to save those stock fasteners or replace with stock if available ....

Sarge
 

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