Starter Stays Engaged (1 Viewer)

[OBX J80]

Guys I need a little help. I successfully installed the new fusible link and the engine fired right up on the 1st crank in 20 degree weather

Here’s the issue:

The starter is now staying engaged and the engine and starter stayed engaged and running for about a minute after I disconnected the battery. Now the starter wants to engage as soon as I reconnect the battery

Any thoughts?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

My rig did this after sitting for a year. Tapping on my starter would temporarily fix the issue for a day or two than it would happen again.

I replaced my starter and problem was solved. I think it is just sticky contacts in the starter causing your issue.

 

[Kernal]

The plunger and contacts in the solenoid of the starter are sticking (welding) themselves together; you need to rebuild the solenoid or replace the starter.

Do not reconnect the battery to the cables until you've done either of those or you risk a fire.

Try a search for sticking contacts starter

Here's an example of an engine fire (cause undetermined):

All Burned Up

Our beloved 80 caught fire 60 Km out in in the bush and burnt to the ground. I've had 4x4's ( all land rovers) for decades and sold my defender 110 for the 80. I've never looked back and am now a true cruiser convert. We are now cruiserless and at the mercy of the insurance company. If we get...

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's another (scroll 2/3 down the page for photos):

What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

First time old girl got snowed on where she normally sleeps.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Kernal]

Or:

 

[OBX J80]

The plunger and contacts in the solenoid of the starter are sticking (welding) themselves together; you need to rebuild the solenoid or replace the starter.

Do not reconnect the battery to the cables until you've done either of those or you risk a fire.

Try a search for sticking contacts starter

Here's an example of an engine fire (cause undetermined):

All Burned Up

Our beloved 80 caught fire 60 Km out in in the bush and burnt to the ground. I've had 4x4's ( all land rovers) for decades and sold my defender 110 for the 80. I've never looked back and am now a true cruiser convert. We are now cruiserless and at the mercy of the insurance company. If we get...

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's another (scroll 2/3 down the page for photos):

What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

First time old girl got snowed on where she normally sleeps.

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the excellent advice. What if I need to run the vehicle to the garage where I do the work? Could I bang on the starter and get it running or is that too dangerous?

 

[Kernal]

Too dangerous if the starter continues to run while you're driving. If you can't replace the starter yourself where the vehicle is located now I'd have the vehicle
towed (flat bedded) to the garage.

Most mechanics however do not want to mess with rebuilding a starter (contacts and plunger) so they'll buy whatever starter is easiest/quickest to get.

So maybe first talk with the mechanic to see if he's comfortable with replacing the contacts and plunger. If he is you'll have to buy the rebuild kits (ask for the part numbers if needed). If not, buy a Toyota reman'd starter from Dealer or get a Denso reman from RockAuto and bring it with the vehicle to the shop. Don't install a generic starter from a parts store. IMHO.

 

[OBX J80]

Thanks Kernal. I ordered a Denso reman and have decided to do it myself in my condo parking lot. I’ll buy a rebuild kit and keep the original as a backup. Looks like about a 1.5 job. Thanks for the help

 

[Malleus]

I'd recommend soaking the mounting bolts with your favorite nut loosening solution for a few days prior to attempting to remove the starter. Every one I've removed was installed by a mechanic with an air impact and, although I haven't managed to break a bolt yet, I've come close.

The front bolt will be easier to remove if you remove the front wheel. A 12-in extension and a 1/2-in breaker bar, with maybe a cheater bar, will help to remove the rear one. This is the one that's usually tightest, because it can be reached with a big impact on a lift. The front one probably won't be as tight, because it's harder to get a big impact on it, unless the intake manifolds are out.

Either way, make sure you remove the starter lead before you try to remove the bolts, or you'll get a good impression of how much charge is in your battery. You'll need to remove the solenoid connector first; grab it just behind the housing on the solenoid, with a pair of pliers, and pull level towards the front of the truck. You need to squeeze the engine harness side of the connector to remove it.

 

[Kernal]

Adding to above, I've been able to get to the rear starter mounting bolt via the left front wheel well (wheel removed) using an extra long flex head ratcheting box wrench. Also after drenching those bolts with penetrating oil a few times beforehand.

IME attempting to remove the rear bolt while laying on your back and reaching up is harder to get a good angle on that bolt which then requires the use of a wobble joint. And if you try a cordless impact wrench they don't work well with wobbles or extensions (as mentioned above, I use a breaker bar to get the bolt loose if working from below).

For the front bolt IIRC I've used a ~18" flex head 1/2" drive ratchet with a 1/2" extension bar.

 

[cahill]

A flex head ratcheting wrench was helpful to me as well if I recall when replaceing a starter a while back. I don't recall having had any issues with bolts being hard to loosen but I have a feeling I was lucky from the other responses/experiences posted above.

 

[OBX J80]

Wow am I glad I tackled this job! Look at that POS starter (reman nonetheless)!! Going to feel good to get that nice Denso unit installed.

A few notes on the removal of the old starter. I used a 3/4” drive with extension and was able to get the top bolt out after some serious effort. Surprise surprise: the PO didn’t use anti seize on the bolt which is why I struggled. Bottom bolt was fairly easy. Did it on my back one small crank at a time.

I’ll get back to you on the install but I suspect I won’t have any issues now that I know what I’m working with.

 

[OBX J80]

Ok got the starter installed and hooked everything back up and and now my ignition is constantly on with the keys out and doors shut and I’m getting nothing when I turn the key. I replaced the fusible link last week and when I did the starter began sticking but now I’m wondering if there is an issue with the fusible link???

 

[OBX J80]

I’ve traced my issues back to the black wire on the fusible link. When I unplug the black wire (the one with the connector plug) all the electrical works properly and the truck wants to start like it should. It won’t start of course because it’s not getting fuel with that link unplugged

Any suggestions on what to do next? Am I looking at shorted wire somewhere after the link or is it possible I got a bad FL (just installed last week)??

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[BILT4ME]

You've got TWO threads going for the same issue.

Pick one and stay there.

The rest of us don;t know which one to follow or answer or know who has helped. You may end up with conflicting answers because of this.

 

[OBX J80]

It won’t let me delete the comment here. I started the new one so this one doesn’t get buried

 

[BILT4ME]

It won’t let me delete the comment here. I started the new one so this one doesn’t get buried

Each time you (or someone else) posts to it, it comes back to the top.

That is why it's important to name threads what they are about so folks can search and find relevant things. If people post: "Help Me Please" you never know what you'll get.

What you can do is make a post in one thread and say: I've moved the discussion over here:
Then post a link to the new thread so people know where to go.

Only MOD's can delete posts.

 

[OBX J80]

Each time you (or someone else) posts to it, it comes back to the top.

That is why it's important to name threads what they are about so folks can search and find relevant things. If people post: "Help Me Please" you never know what you'll get.

What you can do is make a post in one thread and say: I've moved the discussion over here:
Then post a link to the new thread so people know where to go.

Only MOD's can delete posts.

Thanks. That’s exactly why I started the new post because this thread title didn’t explain my issues exactly.

I’m not an expert in how to post links and all that stuff.

Thanks for taking the time to point all of this out. Any idea what my issue might be? I’m new to Toyota and this whole fusible link deal has me stumped. I owned a 1990 Chevy Suburban for 20 years and did all the maintenance but this fusible link issue has me baffled. I’m thinking I must have a ground somewhere in the AM2 vehicle side wire. Nothing else makes sense.

It can’t be the ignition switch. If it was, it wouldn’t work properly when I unplug AM2 link

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks. That’s exactly why I started the new post because this thread title didn’t explain my issues exactly.

I’m not an expert in how to post links and all that stuff.

Thanks for taking the time to point all of this out. Any idea what my issue might be? I’m new to Toyota and this whole fusible link deal has me stumped. I owned a 1990 Chevy Suburban for 20 years and did all the maintenance but this fusible link issue has me baffled. I’m thinking I must have a ground somewhere in the AM2 vehicle side wire. Nothing else makes sense.

It can’t be the ignition switch. If it was, it wouldn’t work properly when I unplug AM2 link

Is there any type of alarm system on it?

Most came with an RS3000 alarm and mamy have removed that and installed another aftermarket alarm.

The RS3000 is known to have weird issues.

 

[OBX J80]

Is there any type of alarm system on it?

Most came with an RS3000 alarm and mamy have removed that and installed another aftermarket alarm.

The RS3000 is known to have weird issues.

It does have some sort of aftermarket system with a remote start. It also seems to be running the door locks as well (they don’t work with AM2 unplugged and the green light on the system doesn’t illuminate, only a red light). I’m also not getting a CEL. Very strange situation