Starter removal tips? (1 Viewer)

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boulder, co
Hi All,

Does anyone have any tips for removal of the starter on a 96 80? a couple of weeks ago the starter started turning over really slowly, so I put it on a charger to make sure there were no battery issues. The battery was fairly new, but I figured it was worth checking. Now, it will click once, but nothing else, so I assume the starter is the problem. I'm trying to pull it for testing, and got the bottom bolt out really fairly easily.

The big problem is that I can't reach the wiring that connects to the starter or really any other bolts. Are there any tips for this? Should I remove the front drivers's side wheel? Or is it just keep squeezing until you magically make it happen?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Best,
Abe
 
As above. First time took me 2 days and still didn't have it out then noticed the card board panel in the wheel well. Pull it out gently so as not to break the plastic plug and you have a straight shot. 1/2 to 3/4 hour. As above get a wrench with a swivel head to get the bolts started and a short 3-4" extension.
 
Could also be battery or cables, even though battery is not real old. I would pull it and have it checked out at a shop, or swap in a known good battery/loaner to verify that it is not the battery. Otherwise, just replace the starter contacts instead of taking it to a repair shop. I carry a spare set onboard, just in case. John
 
Thanks Guys!

With a few hicups, the starter came out pretty easily. I can see where an air wrench or some othe power tool would be usefull, due to the lack of space to turn wenches.

My next question is, how do I test this starter? I'm not used to having a main terminal & the extra little plug, what is that for, & does it need to be connected to test? Historically I just ground the body of the starter & hit that main terminal with some juice to see if it turns over or not. Same thing, or do I need to do something different?
Thanks again!
Abe
 
Could also be battery or cables, even though battery is not real old. I would pull it and have it checked out at a shop, or swap in a known good battery/loaner to verify that it is not the battery. Otherwise, just replace the starter contacts instead of taking it to a repair shop. I carry a spare set onboard, just in case. John

Thanks Inkpot,

I had the battery on the charger over night & also tried turning it over with the charger still connected. So I don't think it is the battery, but I will also investigate it some more, just because that would be an easy fix.

I don't know how to change out the starter contacts. Is it difficult or straightforward? Also, the engine has an oil leak somwhere now, so the starter is very oily/greasy. Any chance that would have helped cause the problem you think, or not likely?
thanks,
Abe
 
Thanks Guys!

With a few hicups, the starter came out pretty easily. I can see where an air wrench or some othe power tool would be usefull, due to the lack of space to turn wenches.

My next question is, how do I test this starter? I'm not used to having a main terminal & the extra little plug, what is that for, & does it need to be connected to test? Historically I just ground the body of the starter & hit that main terminal with some juice to see if it turns over or not. Same thing, or do I need to do something different?
Thanks again!
Abe


To test, ground the body of the starter and connect the main terminal to the positive lead.

Then use a jumper wire to connect the solenoid terminal to the positive lead momentarily :cool:
 
step one, wedge yourself in the fenderwell :D
DSC04699.JPG
 
I don't know how to change out the starter contacts. Is it difficult or straightforward? Also, the engine has an oil leak somwhere now, so the starter is very oily/greasy. Any chance that would have helped cause the problem you think, or not likely?
thanks,
Abe


Do a search in the FAQ

Contacts and plunger is easy to change out, but you'll need an extra set of hands if you don't have a press on hand.
 
I can see how you can get to the front mounting bolt but how do most people reach the rear bolt with the rig on the ground?? Once you get the bolts out, which way do you snake the starter out, and does the dipstick tube have to be disconnected?
 
I can see how you can get to the front mounting bolt but how do most people reach the rear bolt with the rig on the ground?? Once you get the bolts out, which way do you snake the starter out, and does the dipstick tube have to be disconnected?

Yes

There's a bolt on the manifold to remove the dipstick.

You can get to the rear bolt using a really long extension (or a bunch of short ones) and a swivel socket :cool:
 
That dipstick comes out! D'oh! I've been fighting around it & cursing it the whole time....

also, Ige I can't believe you fit in between the wheel & the truck! that must make it a bit easier.

so I just tested my starter & it turned over after a bit of tinkering, and seems fine. It is slower than the one from my 65 Galaxie, but I don't know if that is the way it is supposed to be, or indicative of an issue. So once it worked outside, I stuffed it back into the whole where it goes (but didn't mount it), and hooked it up to the actual cables, ground it using a jumper cable to the battery & had my wife turn the key. It spun there as well.

So can this mean I just had a bad ground, maybe due to the oil/greasy nature of that area now, or does it idicate that the starter is likely going bad & I should get a new one, or rebuild this one? Your probably sick of hearing it, but again, thanks in advance Guys & Gal!
best,
Abe
 
Im pretty sure I didn't disconnect the dipstick, got al the bolts with a 3/8 air gun, extensions and wobbles, and a bit of swearing
 
Put it completely back in to see what would happen, and now it won't turn over again. I'm assuming this means it is shot & no longer has the power to turn the engine over.

Any other theories?
Thanks,
Abe

Do you hear any clicking or thumping sounds from the starter when you crank?

I'm guessing it just needs a new plunger and contacts as that's the usual fix for intermittent starts :meh:

When I pulled my starter for the same reasons, it worked fine on the bench too :doh:

However, to rule out the ignition switch, I would either check for power at the remote solenoid terminal while your wife cranks or put a jumper lead between the positive cable and the remote solenoid terminal and see if it spins :hmm:
 
No hijack intended, but Snake Eater, where exactly do you sit and reach from?? I had my rig up on stands and couldn't figure out how to physically get to the rear bolt. I can see if the rig is up on a lift and you're standing under the vehicle looking forward from the DS of the transmission/bellhousing, but how do you position yourself when the rig is on the ground??

gr8ful: I took a used starter to an auto parts store to check it out. They can tell how many amps it's drawing along with a few other parameters.
 
No hijack intended, but Snake Eater, where exactly do you sit and reach from?? I had my rig up on stands and couldn't figure out how to physically get to the rear bolt. I can see if the rig is up on a lift and you're standing under the vehicle looking forward from the DS of the transmission/bellhousing, but how do you position yourself when the rig is on the ground??



Last time I did it on the ground, my head was about in line with the front of the gas tank.

With the LF wheel off, I actually lowered the jack down for easier reach and just snaked the swivel socket from the rear with long extensions :cool:

If your truck was high on stands, you'd probably need to prop yourself up on a creeper with a headrest :hmm:
 
Ok, If I understand correctly, to get at the rear facing mounting bolt you were working on your back on a creeper with your feet pointing toward the front of the vehicle and reaching up and forward to approach the starter from behind, and the front axle was being supported by low stands??
 

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