Starter just clicking when trying to start (1 Viewer)

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StaticTorque

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In the past couple months my LC has had some problems starting randomly. Usually it'll happen when its fairly hot out. It will start no problem for its first start, but then if I go park it and come back it won't start. When the key is turned, I get all auxiliary power, dash lights, climate controls, stereo, etc. all work. But when I go to start it, it sounds like the starter just keeps clicking. From friends that know more about cars than me, they think the starter is going out. If I do like 4-6 quick turns of the key, sometimes it will start. I have a video linked down below, its hard to hear so I apologize.
 
Just went through this after installing my winch.
If you have recently mucked with the battery terminals, make sure they are well and truly seated and tight to the post taper.
Drove me nuts for about two weeks.

If you haven't mucked about with the battery recently, it might by time to rebuild the starter.
But, check your fusible links with a multi-meter first. They are a whole lot easier to get to.
 
Just went through this after installing my winch.
If you have recently mucked with the battery terminals, make sure they are well and truly seated and tight to the post taper.
Drove me nuts for about two weeks.

If you haven't mucked about with the battery recently, it might by time to rebuild the starter.
But, check your fusible links with a multi-meter first. They are a whole lot easier to get to.
I recently had the negative terminal replaced I would have the bolt tightened all the way and could pull the terminal off the battery. thought that was my problem but didn't do anything. But doesn't the fusible link just go for the stereo and that stuff?
Starter contacts. Rebuild kit is pretty cheap. Search the forum and you will find lots of threads on the subject.
I was thinking about getting the Wits End kit. But wasn't sure if I should buy a whole new one or not.
 
The fusable links go to EVERYTHING except the direct hot to the starter. If the fusible link that controls the starter solenoid, or the key switch, is flaky you'll get intermittent starts.
 
Starter solenoid/plunger contacts are worn
Dead cell in battery ( test voltage while starting so it's under load, sound still be above 12 volts under load)
Bad ground connection somewhere. Check ground on engine, frame, battery etc etc

I'll put money on one of these
Where could I find a place that shows me all the grounds? The motor was replaced before I bought it. But it had been in for a few Ks.
 
Where could I find a place that shows me all the grounds? The motor was replaced before I bought it. But it had been in for a few Ks.
The EWD (electrical wiring diagram) is under the "resources" section. Use drop down menu, top left of page.

There's a couple from engine block, intake manifold to battery.
Engine head to firewall ( right side)
Alternator to battery.
Body to battery ( near battery)

A loose bolt, or terminal on any of these could be a contributor.

1st thing to do, coz zero $$$, check battery voltage while trying to crank it, or watch battery voltage while someone turns on all headlights with engine off
2nd ( zero $$$ too) check your grounds
3rd, pull starter and inspect contacts. 15-20 minutes max to have the starter out on the bench.
 
I had a drama recently with my factory start relay up on the inner guard. I just deleted it and ran a new relay that uses the key start power to switch a 12V wire direct from the battery to the solenoid on the starter.
 
I had a drama recently with my factory start relay up on the inner guard. I just deleted it and ran a new relay that uses the key start power to switch a 12V wire direct from the battery to the solenoid on the starter.

A drama in your 1fz powered 80?

'cos afaik there is no 'start relay' on a 1fz... On the 1fz the ignition key is the power source for the starter solenoid when you are cranking (via the neutral safety switch - only autos shipped to the US).

cheers,
george.
 

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