Hey Matt, does yours just have 3 wires to it ? That I would use. Big gauge hot +, big gauge - and the wire from the ignition to send the signal to start it.
I’d like to have something very reliable. Starter without all he extra wires and relays. , and an ignition system that’s easy too.the gear reduction starter was not introduced till 5/79 , this is why toyota can't look one up for a A 1962-4/79 fj40 F , F1.5 2F 3FE
i personally have installed a reduction oem unit on a 1964 Siamese F w / a Colum shift J-30 Trans and vacuum t-case all original too !
there is ONE fundamental difference :
only 2 wires on the reduction , the B= Battery Cable , and the BLACL wire . / with the white tracer stripe from elec key switch to the starter to activate the solonoid
your old 3rd wire , is a small gauge black w /red tracer , that goes to your COIL and or Igniter set up
this here lies the tiny issue i think you are already aware of , by the wording of your question above ?
am i right about this key point or ?
maybe @4Cruisers will chime in here ?
he is in my professional and personal opinion the Authority and final word on the key point topic ...........
his unique gift to the MUD community is the specializing in the OEM NipponDenso various Ignitions Systems ,
he will know this better then my vague recollection of only partial facts ,. and i try never to speculate , it only causes undo stress and such ...........
Does anyone know if my 77 FJ40 should have an aftermarket starter relay !? Please excuse my ignorance, I’m not an auto electrician or mechanic by any means. It seems the hot + wire from the ignition should go to the starter circuit on the starter solenoid … is this a work-around when/if the starter solenoid stopped !? Factory ignition seems to still be in place.
View attachment 3003065
I can deal with this. Simple. Not over engineeringMean while waiting for @4Cruisers to chime in
We can start and have a productive and indeed enlightening discussion from all points of view on my below 1962-4/79. Starter 3 wire system and the % period correct usa spec. EWD diagram and combo Parts nomenclature also
I swear by this paticular page in the GREY 1st Gen. 2F engine FSM ,
Publication # 98126
So let’s Discuss shall we :
- I’ll simply start by asking anyone willing to share here ,how to bypass and or delete or hook up differently the key point 3rd wire that goes :
“ TO Ignition Coil ( only for USA ) in the below starting system circuits FSM ewd combo diagram “. ….
We all need to know !
View attachment 3003830
I may need the same system you have ! Starter/ ignitionGood pic Matt. That's showing the auxiliary contact built in. The starter that was on my rig, when I got it, did not have that extra contact. I added a relay to make the resistor bypass operational.
But now it's a GR starter with no auxiliary contact and no resistor with the DUI.
One possibility is the relay was for a resistor bypass. Some starters had the auxiliary contact for the resistor bypass, but replacement starters often do not have it. When this happens, the bypass will often get done away with unless a relay is added to make the bypass operational.
The main reason I went with the GR starter is that it draws less amps and my thinking is, with a weak battery on the trail, a GR starter could just make the difference between cranking over or not. Lighter and smaller is just a bonus.I may need the same system you have ! Starter/ ignition
Matt. The starter that came on mine and the spare that came also, only had the battery lug and the one spade terminal. They didn’t have that extra terminal in your pic marked “To Ignition Coil USA” which I assume is for the resistor bypass. The “C terminal” in your pic is confusing. I don’t believe that’s a terminal that intended for connecting a wire to, other than the big heavy field coil wire. However I am speculatingView attachment 3003921
you would have resisted voltage back feeding the starter solenoid and also whenever the key is in the “Run” position. It would be the lower resisted voltage back feeding and it may or may not hold in or pull in the solenoid but either way, not a good idea.
The problem with using the #50 terminal for the resistor bypass is,, yes it would bypass the resistor while cranking but after that, you would have resisted voltage back feeding the starter solenoid and also whenever the key is in the “Run” position. It would be the lower resisted voltage back feeding and it may or may not hold in or pull in the solenoid but either way, not a good idea.
The only way I see to have a functioning resistor bypass on a starter without the extra terminal (built in extra contact) is by using an add on relay.
I was thinking about doing the same wiring Matt mentioned to add a coil with external resistor to my FJ40 that wasn't equipped with one but had oversaw this part, very good comment!
I'm still very unsure on the relation between distributor and coil and if dizzy made for a coil with external resistor is different than one made for a coil with internal resistor and if swappable.