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Started SBC installation

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by tewlman, Feb 16, 2004.

  1. tewlman

    tewlman

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    Started installing my 350 this weekend. using AA motor mounts, also using SM465, rockbox, stock 4sp transfer, and AA rear crossmember. Body is lifted 1.5"
    AA recommended placing motor 8-12" from rear of shock tower, mine is sitting at 11.25" right now.
    I wanted to retain stock gearshift location fairly close, and measured 13" from firewall back to center on my 75'.
    It looks like the motor is sitting real low compared to the radiator, what do you think?
     
  2. tewlman

    tewlman

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  3. tewlman

    tewlman

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  4. tewlman

    tewlman

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  5. tewlman

    tewlman

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    all i'm hearing are crickets chirping in the background..............
     
  6. Rice

    Rice SILVER Star

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    Good pictures ... that does look a little low but it still looks like something you can work with. My motor mounts are 8.5 inches behind the shock towers and they sit about 3/4 inch above the frame rail so my configuration is slightly different from yours mostly because I run a long drivetrain. I raised things a little for two reasons ... one being the clearance of the fan and the other so I could run a slightly deeper oil pan (7 quarts).

    With a nicely made custom fan shroud you can still pull the air you need for cooling. In addition if you switch off to another radiator you could drop it down a little but not much. Are you planning a saginaw power steering install? If so you may wish to slice off all the unused portion of your driver side motor mount. Enjoy.
     
  7. Rock_Hugger

    Rock_Hugger

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    Do you have the tranny, RB, and tcase all attached while positioning the engine? Maybe put the heater hoses through the firewall and the ps valve cover on. With all that together and the tranny hump on, raise the motor tranny rb & tcase up untill it hits then lower back down a little so nothing is touching. Also move the engine back untill you have just enough room for the heater hose to come through the fire wall.

    The shifter will come out forward of the stock hole, nothing you can do about that. The stock six sits farther back then the V8 can.
     
  8. TJDIV

    TJDIV Back in The U.P.

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    I'm giving you high marks. Good thing you're not going with an automatic tranny. I wish I would've done what you did instead of putting a 700R4 in mine. I had to move my engine forward TWICE because of the length of the tranny.

    My only recommendation; and it looks like you're doing this; is to put your entire drive train in place before you weld everything in for good. It sounds like an obvious enough thing to do, who'd have thought in my case that I'd end up having to shim the transfer case down to offset my pinion angle, which in turn resulted in what looks like me having to move my engine down a little.

    So, you're on track man. Looks good.

    Tom IV
     
  9. TJDIV

    TJDIV Back in The U.P.

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    BTW; almost looks like a frame off restore, with a nasty dirty butt-ugly frame!!!!

    [move]:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:[/move]
     
  10. tewlman

    tewlman

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    I just tack welded the motor mounts in place, plan on bolting the other goodies the the motor tonight and decide how it looks then. shouldn't i be more concerned with the distributor hitting the firewall than the heater hoses?
    What is the reason AA suggests a 1" body lift? is it the bracketry for the RB shifter?
    I'll see how much i can lift things tonight after the other stuff is mounted up.

    Steve
     
  11. Rock_Hugger

    Rock_Hugger

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    On mine I have about 1/8" from the valve cover to the heater hose, but a couple inches from the distributor to the firewall.
     
  12. tewlman

    tewlman

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    hey, watch the comments about my frame. its kinda sensitive!
    after i get the sbc in and figure out my ne wsuspension i am gonna have it powder coated fwiw
    cause nobody likes a dirty frame
     
  13. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    [quote author=TJDIV link=board=1;threadid=11593;start=msg105670#msg105670 date=1076951478]
    I'm giving you high marks. Good thing you're going with an automatic tranny.
    Tom IV
    [/quote]

    "also using SM465

    465.....auto....

    Who makes this?
     
  14. tewlman

    tewlman

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    nice avatar rock hugger!
     
  15. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    1.5" body lift is for clearance, clerence...

    Less likely to have issues with the body and swap component interfierence...

    I am installing a 2" lift with the 350/TH350 swap that I am doing. I also will be going with an electric fan, so I have the engine a lot further forward than where you have yours set, which helps the rear driveshaft length too a bit.

    Sounds like a great combo!

    After you get everything positioned, remove the body tub, and take a few pics of the linkages and so on that you are useing to control the rock box, and t-case, along with the rear crossmemeber position.

    Good luck!

    -Steve
     
  16. Rock_Hugger

    Rock_Hugger

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    I went in to "edit profile" and I was checking out the ones in there. I came across that one and I fell in love :p
     
  17. Rock_Hugger

    Rock_Hugger

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    A clean shiny frame is over rated :flipoff2:
     
  18. tewlman

    tewlman

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    i was planning on running electric fan also, with the engine slung so low should be good idea.

    Anybody had trouble getting stuff thru AA? i had stuff missing, and other stuff i didn't know i needed, then thry were like oh ya you'll have to have this part to make that work.
     
  19. HI^C

    HI^C

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    Each time i do a SBC into a fj40 i learn new things.

    first one PO did it, placed the engine so far in that the heater hose was on top of the valve cover at the firewall and the dis was within a 1" you could only clamp 3 of 4 cap hold downs as a screw dirver would not fit. this ran hot period. Just by looking at the pics it appears you are close to the same? PO did this to avoid driveshaft length changes, but in the end I had to fix it any way.

    My buddies has a 350 465, 3 speed, dont remember what adapter. But his ended up with about 3" engine to firewall clearance at the heads. and with the drivetrain so long he still ended up with a super short driveshaft, and it barely works with his SOA. rear driveshaft was 19" or less long i believe mount to mount.

    mine redone 406, th350, 3 speed gears 4 speed case, I pushed the engine as far forward as possible, and still be able to take it apart. stock rad, electric fan, and i can undo the waterpump pulley with a rachet and short socket. Water pump pulley to stock radiator is about 4", center of engine mount to center of shock tower 11.5"
    rear driveshaft i believe is 23". I like this setup so far, pushed spark plugs and such out to more easily change, can do carb adjustments easier.
     
  20. tewlman

    tewlman

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    yeah, i'm not worried about altering the driveshafts. that part is easy, we do it all the time. i really don't want to get the 465 so close to the firewall that i can't put the heater back in. (guess i'm afraid of getting cold in the winter months) my heater woks equally as well in the summer, as the valve was stuck.
    i'll get the heater hoses out tonight and make sure i'm not crowding them too close. will also install heater. need to get a water pump as well.


    Rock_hugger,
    Thats some bling bling in that frame, you'll be afraid to wheel that stuff cause you might scratch the paint.