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Mar 28, 2003
Nashville, Tennessee
I have a squeal coming out of my front end. I am assuming it is brake indicators but funny that the noise goes away when I press on the brakes. It is definitely related to brakes. My experience is that indicators made noise when you pressed on the brakes. I guess I need to check condition of the pads first.

I also have some pulsating which tells me my rotors might need replacing or turning.
I'd tend to agree with Bjowett.

Don't bother turning the rotors though on the 80. It's pretty much not worth it. Get new rotors if you need 'em. They're straight forward to do if you want to do it yourself, or have someone else do it for ya. If you're nervous about doing it yourself, ask a fellow cruiserhead that lives nearby to give you a hand. :D
The pulsating might be do to rust built up on the rotor. So it might be a good idea to get them lightly turned to clean them up. And your breaks will like it to. Oh are you going to run 100 series pads?

I guess you would have to define better. They have more surface area and they are thicker. I have been running them for about 11,000 miles. I measured them at around 9,700 miles and they were about 10% worn.

I was averaging about 23,000 miles on stock pads. They "feel" about the same as stock pads.............

At this point it appears that they work about the same but last a bunch longer......

Regards.....Dan :beer:
Very interesting about the 100 pads. Can I get them at NAPA? &nbsp:Do I need to modify in any way?


 Shame on you sir, Thou shalt not mention after market in a post right after mine...... ::)

 Ok kidding aside, I guess you could use those. I prefer OEM.

 The part number is 04465-60151 ....They list at $55.44....
A smart shopper could probably get them for around 44 bucks.

 I have seen many different types of aftermarket pads make noises, chatter, groan....etc.....I also started my pad test with new OEM rotors..(43512-60090)......
The inner edge of the pads overhangs the rotor a bit. Some guys leave them that way, I relieved that area on mine. You have to leave the shims out at first, till the pads wear down. I still have not put mine back in. I'm waiting to see what happens with that.....

 It is working for me......Regards...Dan :beer:
55.44 is not too bad when you consider how much money you save over having someone else do the job. I will probably go to my stealer here in Nash and purchase. I have some issues with them, but do not want to drive to the next closest dealer.

 There is a foot note here. As these pads are larger they will of course have a different foot print on the rotor.  You MUST turn or replace the rotors for this to work adequately......

 Enjoy the mods.........Dan :beer:
Hi all,

My rear brake queals like crazy when brake lightly or when backing up. Inspected it last Sunday, it's dued; also removed the metal worn indicator piece knowing that I'm gonna do it the coming weekend (for wife's peace of mind). Do I have to remove the wheel bearings to change to rotors (as would to the front) ? or caliper removal is good enough ? :dunno:

Please let me know!
Welcome Frank,

No you do not mess with wheel bearings with rear rotor removal. Do you have a factory service manual? (dang, I sound like Beo) It would be a help as you will find the e-brake stuff under the rotors when you pull them.

Regards....Dan :beer:
Very interesting about the 100 pads. ÊCan I get them at NAPA? ÊDo I need to modify in any way? Ê

Yes you can get them from Napa. My bro in law works at one and that is where I got mine. They are decent. I got the premium grade with ceramic.
I threw a set of aftermarket pads on the last time just because the dealer was closed and I needed to do it. They just don't work as well. The other pads to try are the TRD's for the 80. I don't know anyone who has a set but they have to be better than the aftermarket.

Do you mean that I have to disassemble the e-brake in order to remove the rotors or just to check the e-brake along while I'm there ?

Also, what do you have to say about DBA slotted/cross drilled rotors on Man-a-Fre website ? They are cheaper than OEM even after s&h cost.


You do not have to dig into the e-brake other than you MAY need to back the shoes off a touch to get the rotor off.

It's helpful to have the book handy, that's all.

Cross drilled rotors are , well , drilled. They have holes in them that could get loaded up with dirt or small stones in an off road environment. I prefer to avoid that potential issue.

Regards...Dan :beer:
I want to get this right. I am going to order OEM rotors for my '96 and I should order 100 pads instead of the 80 pads? Cruiserdan, you mentioned overhang. Is this any problem in the long run.

  Some guys don't even bother to do anything about that. I relieved mine 'cuz I didn't like the looks of it. It's east to do.

 -B-..Did you relieve yours?

 Tenn, Check your PM's................Dan

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