Squealing from (I think) rear end (1 Viewer)

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shtbrwn86

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Apr 27, 2017
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Tacoma, WA
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About a month or so ago I was under my LX re-installing the rear prop shaft after having a shop install new u-joints. While I was under there spinning the rear wheel to get access to the bolts I noticed a squeal. This sound was not present during the removal of the shaft. Sounded like it was coming from the rear diff?

Fast forward to today I was getting coffee after work and as I was turning through the drive through I hear the sound but it's the loudest it's been. Since then I have replaced the rear diff oil with Valvoline 75w90 Synthetic with LSD additive. Sound was there BEFORE and AFTER the diff fluid change. It seems to only happen driving forward. I back in to my driveway so I will usually hear it when I drive out. About two weeks ago I tried to isolate the issue by jacking up the the rear and turning the wheel by hand. No noise.

Some possibly relevant info....
At one point during the replacement of the prop shaft I had the rear end slightly lifted (few pumps of the floor jack under the rear diff, tires still on the ground). Forgot about this and went to change garage stalls and drove forward while still on the jack. The jack tipped and the truck fell on the jack, on the rear sway bar. The jack was tilted at an angle but it definitely put some weight on the sway bar. It was after this that I noticed the noise.

Really appreciate any input. Hoping I didn't ruin something by driving off the jack like that.
 
parking break adjustment or pad change time? The parking break linkage is near the swayer as well if I remember correctly.
Rear pads and rotors were replaced at 223,620 miles and it's currently at like 256,000. OEM done at the dealer, so I would think they are still good? It just seems weird that it would just start right after driving off that jack.
 
parking break adjustment or pad change time? The parking break linkage is near the swayer as well if I remember correctly.
Bingo ^^

E-brake shoes making contact- when you drove off the jack it may have snagged the ebrake cable that ties both sides together- it runs along the rear sway bar- if your bell cranks are in poor condition they will stick and keep the shoes engaged.
 
Bingo ^^

E-brake shoes making contact- when you drove off the jack it may have snagged the ebrake cable that ties both sides together- it runs along the rear sway bar- if your bell cranks are in poor condition they will stick and keep the shoes engaged.
So the sound I’m hearing sounds like e-brake dragging? I’ll play around with the e take adjustment this weekend. It might also explain why on occasion I can be parked at a drive thru and let off the gas and it doesn’t creep forward. Most of the time it does creep.
 
Note the parking brake uses brake shoes that are controlled by the hand brake cable mechanism. The rear brakes use disc pads and rotors.

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I’m
So the sound I’m hearing sounds like e-brake dragging? I’ll play around with the e take adjustment this weekend. It might also explain why on occasion I can be parked at a drive thru and let off the gas and it doesn’t creep forward. Most of the time it does creep.
If the rubber stops on the back side of the dust cover housing are gapped away from the housing- the bell cranks are prob stuck which has the e brake shoes (pictured above) extended enough to create the rub- hence the squeal.

Having your pads and rotors replaced doesn’t usually include rebuilding e-brake shoes. And even then the bell crank hardware wouldn’t likely be touched unless it is a Landcruiser specific shop or experienced 80/100 series tech that knows about servicing bell cranks hardware.

This is an 80 (same basic set up on a 100)but shows bell cranks and how they get crusty and stuck

Post in thread 'Parking brake?'
Parking brake? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/parking-brake.135349/post-1810491
 
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Just to wrap this up the issue ended up being my rear caliper bracket slides were freezing. I was hearing this sound off and on for a while until like a month ago I saw rust all over my rear wheel and when I pulled it off the inner pad was worn down to the metal. Slide pin was seized and wouldn’t move. Had to replace both rear rotors/pads/caliber brackets/pins but it’s all good now.

The bell cranks seem to work just fine. No signs of binding. Should I have pulled them out and greased them? Probably. But I didn’t.
 

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