Squealing belt then after I got home it broke

[Mike6158]

I drove to Katy this morning (about 90 miles one way) to do some Christmas shopping. When I finished up and was ready to leave I started the LC. There was tremendous squealing sound from under the hood. I shut it off and then restarted, no squeal. I drove about 10 miles, stopped for gas, and no squeal when I started the engine but there was a distinct "bearing chirp" sound. I looked but couldn't see anything wrong. I stopped about 60 miles later and the chirp was still there. No squeal on startup. When I got home I parked, turned the LC off, unloaded, grabbed my IR camera, and started the LC. The squeal was even worse than the first time then POP... no more squeal. I shut the LC off, popped the hood, and sure enough, the belt was broken. In the pic below I am pointing to what looks like an idler pulley but I can't tell for sure. That's what is seized up. It won't budge. You can see the belt shavings below.

Is that an idler or the alternator? Looking from the front of the LC it's on the lower left side

 

[Julian Stead]

The Tensioner I think your pointing at.

 

[fooldall1]

I believe the one you're pointing at is the Tensioner Pulley.

 

[Mike6158]

That's what I was thinking. I was only halfheartedly thinking alternator because I'd like to upgrade it.

 

[aging fleet]

The idler pulley is the highest one, I’d check it too while the belt is off.

 

[Mike6158]

The idler pulley is the highest one, I’d check it too while the belt is off.

The "stuck" pulley is the lowest to the left

204k miles

 

[2001LC]

Easy cheap fix.
Post #8 Coolant leak at water inlet and..
Additional money saving tips.
Serpentine Belt and Gear

 

[Mike6158]

If I read the posts right the idler and tensioner both should be replaced. I got completely lost with the OEM, other brand, part numbers flying around. It seems like I can get a bearing and save $1? Idk... do you think the local dealer will have OEM in stock (2000)?

 

[2001LC]

Sure Toyota or Lexus dealer's have or can oder in.

 

[reznunt]

Easy cheap fix.
Post #8 Coolant leak at water inlet and..
Additional money saving tips.
Serpentine Belt and Gear

How much $ do you save by pressing in a new bearing vs. buying the part?

 

[Mike6158]

I'm curious about that too (bearing vs assembly). The nearest Toyota dealer is 70-80 miles away... I usually just order from Oner and wait I don't know if I want to the LC to be down that long

 

[2001LC]

OEM tensioner listed ~$87 depend on source can be had for less. Bearings are $7 to $15 depending on source. I've had better luck with NAPA bearings than OEM's tensioners w/bearing.

We've not found a good replacement bearing for the idler. So buy aftermarket $20 to $40 or OEM list ~$90

Both are easy to replace about 5 min each. Pressing in new bearing does take more time naturally.

Drive belt bearings give plenty of warning on when to replace so not a critical or hinden disabling failure point.

For me I've gone through about 10 of each this year, so saving added up.

 

[aging fleet]

@Mike6158, if it turns out that your idler is showing signs of wear and you want a less expensive OEM option, check out the ebay link below (not affiliated, it's just an option). Part number 16604-50030 is an older version of the current idler part number 16604-0F010. Because it's a superseded part, it's selling for significantly less than the current part number.

TOYOTA LEXUS GENUINE DRIVE BELT TENSIONER IDLER PULLEY 16604-50030 / 1660450030 | eBay

The image below is from parts.toyota.com and shows all the current and prior part numbers associated with the idler pulley.

I bought 16604-50030 from a different ebay seller about a month ago for about $35 shipped which is probably what you'd spend for aftermarket. It came in the Lexus/Toyota box, was new, and appeared identical to the original I removed.

 

[white_lx]

I have rejuvenated squealing idler bearings by carefully removing the seal with a pick-tool and re-packing the bearing with fresh grease. Make sure not to damage the seal and ensure it is seated in the little groove when re-installed. Done this many times on LS400, LS430 and LX470.

 

[Spike555]

Just like I have been saying, belts only break when something else fails and they always give you a heads up.

I am glad you got it home and it happened in your driveway and not on the road.

 

[nissanh]

Did you notice there is a coolant leak near the oil cooler line on the thermostat housing? I have the same leak and not quite ready to tackle the job.

 

[Mike6158]

@Mike6158, if it turns out that your idler is showing signs of wear and you want a less expensive OEM option, check out the ebay link below (not affiliated, it's just an option). Part number 16604-50030 is an older version of the current idler part number 16604-0F010. Because it's a superseded part, it's selling for significantly less than the current part number.

TOYOTA LEXUS GENUINE DRIVE BELT TENSIONER IDLER PULLEY 16604-50030 / 1660450030 | eBay

The image below is from parts.toyota.com and shows all the current and prior part numbers associated with the idler pulley.

I bought 16604-50030 from a different ebay seller about a month ago for about $35 shipped which is probably what you'd spend for aftermarket. It came in the Lexus/Toyota box, was new, and appeared identical to the original I removed.

Outstanding. That was the last one too... It's not the pulley that locked up but this problem is going to trigger a timing belt, water pump, small coolant hoses, power steering hose, etc replacement project. I've got some fairly long trips planned for next year.

Just like I have been saying, belts only break when something else fails and they always give you a heads up.

I am glad you got it home and it happened in your driveway and not on the road.

Agreed. I was very happy that it decided to go in the driveway. It had numerous opportunities to leave me stranded 90 miles from home an that's never fun.

Did you notice there is a coolant leak near the oil cooler line on the thermostat housing? I have the same leak and not quite ready to tackle the job.

I did not... but that firms up some projects that I've needed to tackle and replacing that hose is going to dovetail with the other projects

 

[Mike6158]

I have the idler pulley in hand. The belt (OEM) and bearings for the tensioner are on the way. I've placed an order for warmer air and sunshine. It's supposed to be here by Friday (the sunshine). Of course the belt and bearings will arrive Saturday. Figures...

Oner gets back in the saddle mid January... I'm going to order the water pump / timing belt list and get that done. 204k isn't way over but since the idler and tensioner failed I'm a little nervous about making any long trips in the LC

 

[Mike6158]

The idler pulley is installed. The bolt was 1/2 driver breaker bar tight. The new idler was a dead nuts match (whatever that is) to the OEM pulley and the old pulley is still running free. Thanks to @aging fleet for the heads up on that.

I changed the idler without disassembling the entire front end. I didn't take anything off... I hand started the bolt because it felt like it wanted to cross thread. Once I knew it was running true I used a 3/8" drive air ratchet to run the bolt in. I don't need an air ratchet very often but when I need it they sure are nice. All of my air tools are vintage 1978 - 1980. I put a few drops of oil in the air inlet every time a use them (the impact has an oiler but I do the same for it too) and they have lasted a long time.

Now to the tensioner pulley. I found bearings (I think, I won't really know until I get the pulley off) so I'm going to go that route to get back on the road and then replace the assembly when I do the water pump / timing belt / power steering lines / etc.. Assuming it's still good it'll go in the "just in case" box along with the seemingly still good idler.

Is it possible to pull the tensioner pulley with the tensioner on the vehicle? I read the tensioner replacement FAQ and I'm not too thrilled with going through all of that just for the tensioner much less the pulley. If that's the only option there is the LC may be down a while...

 

[Julian Stead]

I bought the whole assembly but only changed the pulley, I changed the tensioner when I done the timing belt later on. I might be wrong but something in my Memory is telling me that it was Left Hand Thread, I am not 100%, but just keep it in mind.