Spotties stopped working (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Jul 6, 2020
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5
Messages
13
Location
Western Australia
Hi

I bought a 105 FZFE GXL about two weeks ago and am very happy with the current setup. Yesterday tho on a drive to perth my spotties stopped working. They are activated with the high beam but have a separate switch to deactivate them if you want.

In the fuse box under the bonnet there was only one burnt one (EFI or ECD, previous owner put in a 15amp fuse instead of 20) but I dont know if thats related to the problem. I took out the switch and wired the two wires together and it still didn’t work. The previous owner did a cnt of a job on the wiring but to me it looks undamaged. I didn’t do any water crossings or even driving in the rain yet, so moisture shouldn’t be the issue either.

Im still at work till the werkend so I got no access to a multimeter atm, so I was wondering if anyone has an idea for a simple fix, is there another fuse box?

What else could it be apart from the wiring?

Cheers
 
Hi

I bought a 105 FZFE GXL about two weeks ago and am very happy with the current setup. Yesterday tho on a drive to perth my spotties stopped working. They are activated with the high beam but have a separate switch to deactivate them if you want.

In the fuse box under the bonnet there was only one burnt one (EFI or ECD, previous owner put in a 15amp fuse instead of 20) but I dont know if thats related to the problem. I took out the switch and wired the two wires together and it still didn’t work. The previous owner did a cnt of a job on the wiring but to me it looks undamaged. I didn’t do any water crossings or even driving in the rain yet, so moisture shouldn’t be the issue either.

Im still at work till the werkend so I got no access to a multimeter atm, so I was wondering if anyone has an idea for a simple fix, is there another fuse box?

What else could it be apart from the wiring?

Cheers

Your spotties will either have a piggy back connector or use wiretaps. Most the old installs use wiretaps.

1) pop the hood and investigate your wiring. specifically, trace where your spotties are connected to your high beam lights (they can only operate when the high beam lights are triggered in WA)
2) Once you find the wiretaps flip the highbeam and spotties to on. Then wriggle the wiretaps. If you don't have wiretaps you probably have piggy back connectors, I suggest playing with them perhaps disconnect them and reconnect see if the spotties come on.

The spotties will also have a seperate fuse usually 30amp located near the relay for the spotties, research how relays work on youtube. There are a few different setups for installing spot lights, best to just spend some time understanding your wiring underneath. I know all mine now but boy was it a birds nest to start with.
 
Oh and spotties aren't connected , or have anything to do with, your vehicles fusebox. They are completely seperate and controlled by a relay somewhere under your hood.
 
what the heck are you actually saying

I don't know what the problem is. If you Google "Spotty" you'd find that it is a fish in the waters off of New Zealand. So Spotties would two fishes, or more. Not sure what this has to do with fuses though. But if you spent less time on Night Vision you'd probably be more well rounded.
 
Your spotties will either have a piggy back connector or use wiretaps. Most the old installs use wiretaps.

1) pop the hood and investigate your wiring. specifically, trace where your spotties are connected to your high beam lights (they can only operate when the high beam lights are triggered in WA)
2) Once you find the wiretaps flip the highbeam and spotties to on. Then wriggle the wiretaps. If you don't have wiretaps you probably have piggy back connectors, I suggest playing with them perhaps disconnect them and reconnect see if the spotties come on.

The spotties will also have a seperate fuse usually 30amp located near the relay for the spotties, research how relays work on youtube. There are a few different setups for installing spot lights, best to just spend some time understanding your wiring underneath. I know all mine now but boy was it a birds nest to start with.
Thanks, I looked at the wiring and there seems to be no fuse at all. The lights are plugged into a bosch relay and from there straight to the switch. The driving lights and high beam is an after market unit which is also connected to the relay. Playing with the wires did nothing unfortunately

Edit:
Nevermind.. the last owner did a very poor job to say the least. I’ll probably have to do it again with proper wires and terminals. The problem was a bare wire which was routed in front of the radiator (through the insulating foam). It was corroded at the ends. I cut the ends and crimped it together, now its back working.

cheers for the heads up @highkick05
 
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without the engine running tho, I could hear a click from the relay whenever I tried to turn the spotties on.
 
You can use a working headlight bulb in place of a multimeter to check for the presence of +12V power. If relays work and the "spotties" are getting +12V, either you have a bad ground or the bulbs or shot. Pretty simple electrical stuff.
 
without the engine running tho, I could hear a click from the relay whenever I tried to turn the spotties on.
Should be about a 30A fuse on the red wire powering the spotties relay from the main battery terminals. It belongs there.

Yeah sounds like you need to rip it all out and start again. That's what I did with my fogs, UHF power cable, LED light bar is an XTM (good quality higher end harness),.Spotties is the last to go but I will be taring that out when I finally get some Hard Korr LED Spotties. (birthday present)

Some good quality harnesses around for that type of thing. Just make sure the wires are good quality and thickness. STEDI do great harnesses and you're in Australia (nice thick wires and insulation). Watch out for cheap ebay rubbish, the power wires they use aren't great gauge.

My fog light harness is a STEDI harness, its a purpose based foglight harness but I'm a bit ashamed to use it on the s***ty old fog lights its powering lmao. Ah well at least it works.

Oh yeah, watch out for the 12V push buttons as well. STEDI sell ones that work with there harnesses. Ebay and AliExpress ones work with STEDI but may not or require different wiring.
 
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You can use a working headlight bulb in place of a multimeter to check for the presence of +12V power. If relays work and the "spotties" are getting +12V, either you have a bad ground or the bulbs or shot. Pretty simple electrical stuff.

Yeah have to admit , most of the wiring of lights is pretty simple. Just following wires and testing current as it moves along. Problem I had with most of the wiring is where the old wiring met the new wiring. These cars are that old now that there is green corrosion around most exposed wire around connections/joins ; those exposed to the elements too such as wires that run under the front to bullbar etc.
 

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