Spool VS Lock Right/Aussie (1 Viewer)

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there is no difference between the three.
lockrite and aussie are made by the same company.
the first generation lockrite had a single pin spring, the newer units have dual springs (a small one inside the larger one) for better control of spring location and engagement.

the aussie is just cheaper.
 
I've ran aussie's F/R for two years. Lifted, 4.7'd, 5.29'd and 37'd. Went to longfields, and have spun all 4 tires on varying terrain with no issue. I like my aussie and don't think i'll break it until i go larger or put some more powwa! in front of them.

as for predicatability- I DD'd with the aussie in the front/rear from winter of 08-09 to last october with NO issues. I barked my 37's a little, but i'm young and on a college campus... Gotta show those frat boys how us Po' boys build em'.
 
Now, I will say that my aussies are a little scary on icy roads in 4x4. Just a little throttle and you are allover the place. I keep it in 2wd and only use 4x4 when I really need it.
 
Mine never sounds like that. In fact, it never makes any noise under a torque. The only time it makes noise is when turning with no throttle. If I give it throttle, it locks up and chirps tires. I've bounced on it a lot and have broken stock birfs with no damage to locker. I'm a graceful wheeler though. If I know I'm going to break something, I think it through and make another choice. I would weld my diffs before buying a spool. If I wanted full time lockers, it would probably be on a budget beater.

When's the next MIOBI run?

Next open run will be Memorial Day. Members of course, will be on the trails before that and we also have some trail cleanup to be done. We're going to get that playground crossing fixed once and for all (although it's hard to plan for the sort of flooding barrage of rain we had last summer).

I think I would also weld before spool... certainly for the rear.
 
Most guys that defend their lunchbox lockers and tell me they work just fine still run stock birfs.

If you have had the need to upgrade to Bobby's 30 spline shafts then you should also consider a quality locker.

If you can wheel safely with stock birfs then a lo quality lunchbox "bang locker" will most likely work, just not well.

Ahhh, you agree with me. Well done.
 
with the front end engaged it will pull you keeping the ass straighter, of course if you over throttle then the ass will stick kick out.
not sure about the minitrucks but the 40/60/70 series land cruisers you can shift on the fly. so the front is locked in from first snow till spring is here and a push of the button of a pull of a lever and you are in 4wd. (maybe that is what you are saying and i am just missing it :doh:)
welded, or autolock, you need the ability to engage that front end in a split second should it be needed.
I keep it in 2wd and only use 4x4 when I really need it.
 
with the front end engaged it will pull you keeping the ass straighter, of course if you over throttle then the ass will stick kick out.
not sure about the minitrucks but the 40/60/70 series land cruisers you can shift on the fly. so the front is locked in from first snow till spring is here and a push of the button of a pull of a lever and you are in 4wd. (maybe that is what you are saying and i am just missing it :doh:)
welded, or autolock, you need the ability to engage that front end in a split second should it be needed.

If we were to leave our hubs engaged we could do that but the frontshaft would constantly spin. most of the IFS rigs have that ability. I think its called A.D.D? My taco has it.

I, for one, made my front shaft out of square tubing and anything above 25mph is asking for brain/output/pinion damage... Not a good idea to leave my hubs locked.
 
yah, the front driveshaft is turning and that is how you can shift into 4H at 120 down the highway. in a vehicle with a tight front driveshaft you can not even tell it is turning ... as for fuel economy i lose about 2 mpg due to the front end drag but that is cheaper than hitting the ditch or another vehicle ... well, that is the way i look at it anyway.

square tubing ... how come?
 
Maybe it's just me, but if I try to shift on the fly, I grind.

Also, when I have her in 4x4 with front and rear lockers, the front wants to push and if I am on some really slick stuff and break traction, my tires turn into ball bearings and it's unpredictable which way it will go.

2wd is not so bad in snow and ice versus 4x4. You really have to watch the throttle because if you get the aussie to lock, you will loose your rear. Good news is that you can reach down and shift the t-case and get back out on the road 80% of the time.

Mine do extremely well in the snow, but only when playing. Serious, A-B driving is pretty scary with locked front and rears on really slick surfaces. Any other situation, they are very good to have!
 
Maybe it's just me, but if I try to shift on the fly, I grind.

Also, when I have her in 4x4 with front and rear lockers, the front wants to push and if I am on some really slick stuff and break traction, my tires turn into ball bearings and it's unpredictable which way it will go.

2wd is not so bad in snow and ice versus 4x4. You really have to watch the throttle because if you get the aussie to lock, you will loose your rear. Good news is that you can reach down and shift the t-case and get back out on the road 80% of the time.

Mine do extremely well in the snow, but only when playing. Serious, A-B driving is pretty scary with locked front and rears on really slick surfaces. Any other situation, they are very good to have!

Do you have different sized or brand tires front to rear? Or different differential gears front and rear? Going in a straight line you should be able to shift in and out of 4 wheel drive without any grinding...
 
thats good to know, I did not realize there was a big difference between lockright and aussie.

Its like the difference between brown poop and tan poop. While they might have a difference they are both still poop in the long run.
 
Another note is 99 percnent of toyota front axles are bent to some degree. Like it or not its the truth, most are bent.

A lunchbox locker gets direct input form the axleshafts the the side gears of the locker. If there is any deflection on the side gears of the poopy style lockers it will make them work even worse for less time.

Think of a lunchbox locker as a wear part. They have a limited life. Every time you hear a pop is one pop closer to hearing a crunch when ya really need a front tire to climb.
 
i refuse to run any locker up front, unless it is selectable, for a couple reasons.
the autolocker can suck on less than perfect road conditions. if you were booting across Saskabush you would probably be fine but on the twisting roads in Northern Ontario or BC in winter might be ... interesting.
I HATE changing birfs in the bush, lockers in the front lead to busted birfs and busted pinions. both are a messy disgusting "trail" change.
i would rather run a winch than get greasy.

but that being said, i did run an autolock in the front of my year round DD for years and found that with the lincon locker rear and the auto lock front the truck performed better with the hubs locked and in 4H than in 2WD on slippery conditions.

i don't know front diffs on minitrucks good enough to guess why you can not go from 2WD to 4WD on the fly. you "should" be able to ...
 
i don't know front diffs on minitrucks good enough to guess why you can not go from 2WD to 4WD on the fly. you "should" be able to ...

I do it all the time, have for years. Something's not right if you're not able to...
 
I do it all the time, have for years. Something's not right if you're not able to...

same here. I coldn't do it with the tires that came on the truck, because the tread wear was uneven, but I can shift on the fly now without issue. Commuting 30 miles in the dark means I leave my hubs locked all winter, and keep an eye on the T-case shifter.
Especially with no weight in the bed.
 
Do you have different sized or brand tires front to rear? Or different differential gears front and rear? Going in a straight line you should be able to shift in and out of 4 wheel drive without any grinding...

I always though so too. My tires only have 1/32" difference front to rear and I rotate often. They are both 35" BFG MTR's. I always though that the shift on the fly feature came with the chain t-case. I can shift on the fly at low speeds, but it fights me. I don't notice any hops or vibration when in 4H, so I doubt anything is mismatched. I even counted the teeth on the gears myself!
 
there is no difference between the three.
lockrite and aussie are made by the same company.
the first generation lockrite had a single pin spring, the newer units have dual springs (a small one inside the larger one) for better control of spring location and engagement.

the aussie is just cheaper.

I don't know I have spent a lot of time on the phone with Bill Cole from tourque masters who is the importer for aussie lockers in the US. I even used to sell and install them on a limited basis. They are made in austrailia, lock rites are not. According to Bill there are alot of minute differences in design between the lock rite and aussie and I beleive him. I have run both, and despite being the same design based on looks they act VERY differently when driving so I believe him. I'm not disputing that they aren't the same basic design, they are, and "lunch box lockers" certainly aren't for everybody, but lock rites and aussies are not identical.

Could you site your source where you found that lock rites and aussies were made by the same company? I'm not saying it's not true but I've never heard this before and I'd really like to follow up on it.
 

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