SPOA using FJ62 axles

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Hi.I m going to a spring over using FJ62 axles from a 1989 model.
I will need some help and parts for the swap.
I ve already started gathering some parts but now I need some help about the hi steer arms.Does anyone know if the Hi steer arms for the Toyota pick up (Hilux) much the FJ62 knuckles ?
I found a pair of Hi steer arms for the pick up but I m not sure if they can be bolted on the FJ62 knuckles.
Also ,the differentials are 9" or 9,5" ? I did some research but I found opinions about 9",9.25" ,8.8" ,9.5".Which one is correct?

Thanks
 

Stumpalama

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FJ62 knuckles are the same as large bolt pattern knuckles for mini's and other Land Cruisers. So Hi-steer from say Trail gear, All-Pro or 4x4 Labs will bolt on.

Cruiser diffs are 9.5" except for FJ/FZJ80's fronts (they are mini-truck sized)

Cheers-
-Stump
 
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A litltle more help ....
These are the axles (sand blasted) that I have.I was informed that they come from an FJ62 , 89 or 90 model.
http://to4x4.gr/photogallery/albums/userpics/10005/DSC02595.JPG
http://to4x4.gr/photogallery/albums/userpics/10005/DSC02598.JPG

here is the rear axle
http://to4x4.gr/photogallery/albums/userpics/10005/DSC02586.JPG

Do you know if the FJ62s have full floater front and rear ,or the rear is a semi floater? To me,the rear one looks like a semi floater.
If its a semi floater ,is it a fact that the axles are kept in place in the differential unit with c clips or not in all cases ?

I m asking cause I found a pair of R & P s on the net ,where it says that the ring might need some grinding ,if the axle has C clip,and I m not happy with that in mind :)

Thanks
 
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The front axle is a full float, no c-clips. The rear axle on US 62's is a semi-float. Aussie 62's had a full float and I believe full floats were available to other markets as well.

As for your picture of the rear axle it is a semi-float. A full float does not have a removable cover and the hubs protrude past the drums. And semi-floats in a toyota have c-clips, hence the cover to access them to remove the axles

As for grinding on the gears, with some thicker gear sets the pinion shaft in the carrier will not clear the ring gear. For a full float this is not much of a concern as a little grinding on the ends of the pinion shaft allow the ring gear to slide on the carrier. With a semi-float it is more of a concern as you need to remove the pinion shaft to get access for removal of the axles. It is not uncommon, (grinding a few teeth), and is frequently done, go to one of the gear makers sites for info and to see how it is properly done. Stock 4.11's don't need any grinding.

If you weren't aware stock 62's should have 4.11s, I don't know if non-US rigs are different. To be sure pull the cover off your axle and count the teeth on the ring and divide by the pinion teeth.

Best of luck with the spring over

Tony
 

Stumpalama

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From what I've been told/seen, 4.88's and larger require you to grind 2-3 teeth slightly to get the cross pin in. Also, a trick with the c-clips with deep gears is to silicone the c-clip to the end of a zip tie to place it then push the axle back outward to lock it in place then snip the zip tie as close to the clip as possible. The bit of plastice that's left will eventually fall off and get ground up with out harming the gears. Again, you won't need to do this with 4.56 or smaller gears.
-Stump
 
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Thanks for the tips.
The ideal ratio for my set up would be 5,29 .
I dont know if they are available for the FJ62 diffs.
Still searching....
 
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well,5,29's will need some grinding on the ring gear teeth for the rear diff.4,88's wont need grinding and since I run double t-cases,the 4,88's will be ok .I plan on running 34"s and my current high ratio is 1:1,57.With the 1.6L motor ,I think the set up is ok.

I have some difficulties about choosing a locker for the rear semi-floating.I also read the various threads in here about floating and semi-floating,what lockers most 60-62 owners run,e.t.c.

Need some help please.
Questions: (sorry if some of them will seem foolish,I m not familiar with LC axles and the semi floating thing....)
1- Are the rear semi-floating axles strong ?
I m dont feel very safe with the c-clip issue....
Is there a way to convert a semi-floating to a FF ?

2- What locker ? I would like a Detroit on the rear but would it be ok since its a SF ? If something breaks I dont want to see a wheel running in front of my truck ...

Most of you are running aussie lockers,few Detroits and most of you ARB's.I dont like that much ARB's.I have them on my current axles.Selectable yes,thats good,but I almost always forget to lock them when its needed :)
Is an auto locker (Detroit I prefer) safe to use with the SF?

thats all for now.
Thanks
 
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I searched a little more and I found a company that makes a conversion kit to convert a semi-floating axle to a full floating one.
here is the link
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication


Guys , I m a little worried for the rear semi floating axle.
Will it be ok for use with 33"S or 35"s,low ratio at 6,5:1 and a 1.6L engine ?

Should I convert the axle to a full floating or it will be ok with the above specs.
What do you think?
I want to procced in getting lockers,e.t.c and I must decide what to do with the semi-floating issue first .
 

Mace

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That conversion is for a toyota minitruck not a Landcruiser

You will most likely be just fine, if you are really that concerned, get a set of upgraded rear axle shafts.

any autolocker is safe to use
 
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ok.thanks :)

I ll just put the 4,88 's and a locker ,ARB or Detroit,havent decided yet and I hope that it will be ok.
 
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I would try to NOT grind your ring gear, that is the last thing you want to grind. I run 4.56s in my rig, I ground the spider shaft. I continued the grinding on down the shaft inbetween the flat spots that are already there to facilitate lubrication of the spider gears. That makes a lot more sense than grinding your ring gear.
 

Mace

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I would try to NOT grind your ring gear, that is the last thing you want to grind. I run 4.56s in my rig, I ground the spider shaft. I continued the grinding on down the shaft inbetween the flat spots that are already there to facilitate lubrication of the spider gears. That makes a lot more sense than grinding your ring gear.
lots of people have gound their ring gears with no adverse effects.
 
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For 4,88's no grinding is mentioned,only for the 5,29s.

As for the 5,29 ,the tech dpt sent me a photo where it shows that the grinding is done on 3 of the ring gear teeth ,where only in one tooth seems to be done some serious grinding.
If you want I have the photo.
But I dont like the idea of grinding so I ll go with the 4,88s.
Possibly I will get the lockers later cause I m trying first to locate the axles and build the suspension.I have to go step by step for tight budget reasons......
You had to do some grinding with your 4,56s ????????
 

Tapage

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when I install my 4.56 need to gring my cross pin or my ring .. are more needed for 4.88 and so on .. due to the increase thickness of the ring ..
 

Trapper50cal

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Just get an Aussie and put it in during the primary build, they aren't near as expensive as an ARB, shoot, while you're at it, put in the poly performance 4340 rear axles. button it up and call it done.
 
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:):)
never thought about Aussie locker.They are almost unknown here.
Most known are ARB,Detroits,Lockrights,EZ lockers.

I saw that many of you use Aussie lockers.

I check the aussie and its like a lockright.I dont know if its operates smoother but I had lockrights in the past,very good,very satisfied but had some problems
when driving on snow or had to deal with going up or down steep muddy hills.I do like very much the auto lockers but I believe they are excellent on rocky-desert terrains but not so good on slippery terrains especially when there are steep slopes.I know...I know......you cant have it all.....

As for the chrommoly axle shafts,can't get them now.Tight budget.
But as for tires ,I will probably stay at 33's.I hope the stockl axleshafts will be ok .

thanks.
 
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