Split case 4:1, are these output shaft gears bearing supported? (1 Viewer)

[fromme]

Now with install and pics! Split case 4:1, are these output gears bearing supported?

I need some insight here, I am in the middle of tearing down my split case to add the new AA 4:1 gears. I understand that the output shaft gears need to be bushing type and not run on bearings. Before I press everything off this output shaft, please take a look at the pics and tell me if you see what I see. I see these are bearing supported gears.
I do not know where this H55 and split case came from, I bought it like this. Because the work was done at Iron Pig Off Road I am going to assume it's from Oz. So I need to find a shaft from an FJ60, right?

 

[fromme]

Help please.

 

[Poser]

Looks like they are to me...

 

[fromme]

Thx, guess I'm off to find a different shaft then.

 

[IPOR]

I do not know where this H55 and split case came from, I bought it like this. Because the work was done at Iron Pig Off Road I am going to assume it's from Oz. So I need to find a shaft from an FJ60, right?

Unless the customer supplies parts from sources unknown we use a brand new H55 from Toyota and rebuild a domestic FJ60 case to mate to it. We do not sell the used 5 speeds because they're always pretty worn out by the time they get sent to the USA and by the time you pay for the used part and rebuild it you could have had the new one.

HTH,

 

[fromme]

Well it kinda does, but it kinda doesn't. I believe I have the POs name and address still. Would you have a record of the h55 and split case install? If she purchased it from you, then I don't understand why this would have the 62 or overseas type output shaft.

 

[lcwizard]

I believe they are refering to the bushings that are pressed into the individual hi and low output gears.
Once you pull the taper bearings and slide the gears off you'll see the bushings that they are talking about

 

[Spike Strip]

So is are your pix from a FJ62 splitcase that was converted to manual shift? (normal FJ62 case would be pneumatic)

But the AA website does say for 1980-1990 split case...

Cluster from FJ60, unknown year ...

 

[Spike Strip]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/468864-split-case-4-1-gear-sets.html

 

[67azcruizr]

I believe they are refering to the bushings that are pressed into the individual hi and low output gears.
Once you pull the taper bearings and slide the gears off you'll see the bushings that they are talking about

top and bottom picture in 1st post......................................................................,

was there a bearing supported gear set in only the earlier 34mm idler shaft versions?, and if so when did they start the bushings?

 

[fromme]

I don't know the answer to that. I know mine has the 38mm idler shaft. Gears came in yesterday and pressed the old high and low gears off the output shaft. They def ride on bearings and the AA gears obviously have bushings.
I don't understand why I have what I have, but at least now I know what to do. Is there an easy way to tell a 60 case from a 62 case?

 

[peesalot]

you could pm orangefj45, he has the knowledge you seek, really. If you read the thread that is linked 3 posts ago you will see where Georg explains a little bit about the diff. between bearing supported gear sets and bushing supported gear sets.
Georg=orangefj45

 

[fromme]

I did, he's the one that suggested it could be an Aussie setup. It's moot, not going to dwell over something that won't change anything. It was a just a curiosity thing.
So here's a write up I put up on my local forum. It's from a novice perspective with the kinks thrown in that I have to deal with. Some of my terminology may be wrong, bear with me and correct me. I can add to it as I go if anyone would like. Nothing ground breaking compared to the other write up. Where I'm at now is the disassembly. The gears came in yesterday. I am waiting on the rebuild kit, although I'm not entirely sure I need one as things look pretty good. I'm tempted to cancel the rebuild kit and just source the nuts for input and output shaft, input seal, idler o-rings, and front case gasket. I am deciding whether to send the rear half of the case to AA for machining or trust a good friend to machine it for me.

It's time for some more build up action. Haven't had interest in doing much to this thing, but one thing I've always been disappointed in is the low range gearing. With a 1st gear of 4.8x1.99low range x 5.29 R&P = a dismal 50:1 final gear ratio. On 35's that pretty much sucks in the rocks. There's been a set of 3.05 gears available for my split case but there are crazy expensive and I wasn't willing to spend the $ for that little difference in gearing. Advance Adapters just came out with some 4:1 gears so I pulled the trigger on those. They are still expensive, but not crazy expensive, so what the heck. These will double by crawl ratio, netting me 102:1 which will be awesome. So when I remembered I snapped a few photos. I'm not done yet, it got hot today and I really don't know what I'm doing in regards to this Toyota split case...it's a lot different than a D300.

First, remove the t-case skid, speedometer gear, rear driveshaft, rear output shift lever, parking brake drum and backing plate, and the PTO inspection cover.

Remove the bolts on the rear case and remove the case. That front output cluster should have stayed with the front part of the case but it came out with the rear. No biggie, just make it more difficult because it was unexpected.

 

[fromme]

Now I need to figure out a way to hold the input cluster so I can loosen the nut on the shaft. Then it's a matter of pulling everything off, removing 4 more bolts, and pulling the front half of the case off. Output cluster:

The rear case is completely disassembled and ready for some machining.

It needs to look like this for clearance for the larger gear:

 

[fromme]

Finished removing the front half of the case. In hindsight I wish I would have left the front half on. The input seal and front output seals were still good, as are the bearings. Now I have to find a gasket for the front case-transmission.

Then I took a closer look at the output shaft and discovered the gears do indeed run on bearings. Sucks for me, because the AA gears use bushings. But all is not lost as all I have to do is find an output shaft for an FJ60, it's a direct swap. So I'll have some more down time.

 

[fromme]

Went ahead and put the front half of the t-case back together today.
I started by removing the front bearing retainer. Then I replaced the bearing race.

The old one was a little pitted.

I replaced the input seal and the boot for the front output shift rod.

At this point some are wondering why I didn't remove the front output and shift rod. Well, this is just how I am. There's nothing wrong with the seals or bearings so I decided to just leave it alone. The front only gets used at low speed and on trail rides.

After cleaning the mating surfaces I placed a new gasket on the transmission and bolted the front half on, put some sealer on the bolts and torqued them to spec. Then install the idler shaft, but don't push it in to its seat. You'll want it sticking out so that after the back half of the case is on, you can put the oring on the back end; then you will drive it home with a hammer and install its retainer.

Install the thrust washer. I put some grease on it to help hold it in place. Very important to note there is a tab on the thrust washer, it must fit in the recess on the case to keep it from spinning. A thrust washer will go on the back half of the case later on. Interestingly, there was not a thrush washer on the rear of my idler shaft. Not sure why, but I hope it isn't a problem later. The rebuild kit came with two.

Smear some grease on the idler bearings and install them on the shaft.

 

[fromme]

Replaced the race and seal on the rear output retainer.

At this point I'm at a stopping point until this weekend when I can get the rear case machined for gear clearance, and I am still waiting for my "bushing" output shaft from Mark. So I cleaned the rear case and found that for some reason someone did a little clearancing on it. I cannot think of any reason for this. The AA gears haven't been around long enough and I'm under the impression the Marks gears don't need clearancing. Plus I'm certain these are factory gears.

 

[BC40]

Then I took a closer look at the output shaft and discovered the gears do indeed run on bearings. Sucks for me, because the AA gears use bushings. But all is not lost as all I have to do is find an output shaft for an FJ60, it's a direct swap. So I'll have some more down time.

Don't think the FJ60 output shaft allows keeping the parking brake drum setup.

Good write up. I'm interested in hearing the feedback once the gears are installed.

 

[fromme]

That is a concern I have since I don't know what that shaft will look like. That will be a bummer. Then I'll have to source a companion shaft too I guess.

 

[orangefj45]

that's definetly not an fj62 case but most definetly an ozzie split case. you're going to have a really tough time finding that output shaft seperatley if you're trying to stick with the ebrake on there.
the only place in the USA that carries the split case ebrake components including the shaft is SOR. they do not sell the parts seperately iirc. so you'd have to buy the $500 kit to get the right shaft.
but then you could turn around and sell your existing shaft, the rest of the ebrake parts along with the gear set to somebody over here. plenty of people looking for these.
the ebrake shafts are longer ( at rear splines ) than the non-ebrake shafts.
i'd put a full rebuild kit in there. no sense on trying to save $120 or so just to jeopardize a $1500 gear set.......

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

PS: lance is 100% spot on. rebuilding an ozzie h55f is a horrible investment. i won't build them anymore after doing 4 of them. every single one was completely clapped out and cost more to overhaul then had the customer just purchased a new h55f.