Spindle question on '96 LC (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 30, 2005
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I had posted a thread earlier about the axle seal and brake problems with the 96 LC I just bought. I ordered the rebuild kit fron Dan as well as some rotors and pads.
After reading some more I found some symptoms of my brakes discussed in a thread and a loose wheel bearing was the culprit. I removed the right wheel and had my first encounter with the dreaded cones. Once i got in there I noticed that after bending the tabs on the washer that I could remove both nuts with my fingers...not a good sign. They were very loose but there was not any noticeable play in the hub. Torqued everything down correctly and moved on to the other(leaky) side.
What a mess..that mixture of grease and diff fluid got everywhere and I now have dedicated clothes/shoes for LC work...they aren't good for anything else now. The left side was bad from the get go. I remove the dust cap and the clip falls out. Remove the hub and the first nut, as well as varied broken pieces of the tab washer FALL out. The first nut had no threads, the spindle threads were full of metal and the back nut was missing chunks where it was obvious someone had used a large screwdriver instead of a hub socket to somewhat tighten the nut. I manage to correctly torque the back nut put everything together and drive it slowly around the block. Brake problem solved. They are firm at the braking starts at the top of the pedal. Sweet. Went out and bought some new nuts and washers for the rebuild.
Now I have it all torn back down and on stands waiting for the rebuild kit to arrive so I can do everything at once. I need a new spindle because even though the threads that are damaged are at the very front...I can't get a nut started on it even after cleaning them up.

Besides venting I do have a few questions:
1) What year spindles are compatible with the 1996 LC?
2) Everything looks good on the side that was damaged, anything I should look for or be weary of because of it riding on the loose hub and broken pieces?
3) Anyone have a spindle that will work for sale:)?

Thanks
 
Joined
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When I did my front axle it appeared that someone who had been in there before had cross threaded the first nut. My partner and coach on the job (MaddBaggins) carefully filed offed the burrs. No problems yet.

Whoever was in there last also did something stupid putting the paper gasket on the wrong side of the hub. All fixed now :).

Ross
 
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I would replace the wheel bearings and lock nuts if they have been run loose, also check the bushing in the spindle that locates the burf, it's probably trashed. If I remember correctly a new spindle is about $250 and comes with a new bushing, maybe less from C-Dan. Kurt at http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/lockers.html has good deals on wheel bearings, seal kits and lock nut sets.
 

powderpig

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Unless you are getting the spindle cheap, it may not be a good buy. Most have had the bearing spinning on them for a while and are groove where they have been spinning. One thing the spindle should have in the bearing area is a slight almost press fit to grab the inner race and keep it from spinning. because of inproper bearing services internavals most if not all the used spindles are worn past service spec's(meaning that they will not hold the bearing race). The updated spindles have certain advantages over the used ones. Newer type of spindle bearing for better support of the birf, helps control the bearing better.
I know money may be tight and you will get other opinions, but it will not change the fact that most spindles are worn out of spec's. good luck on your choice.
I usually stake the spindle for most all the the trucks I have worked on, it is a dirty trick to make the race grab the spindle and will help the spindle last a little longer, but is not the long term answer. later robbie
 
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Thanks for the responses. After shopping around some used prices I found they ranged anywhere from $85-150 plus shipping. I called Dan, he was off but Tom hooked me up with a brand new one reg. price $256 or so...IH8MUD price...$190 shipped:) Man is that a good discount from a Toyota dealer! Plus it comes with the bushing. I figured after shipping on a used part I might as well get a new one so no suprises (hopefully).
I am going to replace all the wheel bearings as well, just to be safe.
 
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powderpig said:
I usually stake the spindle for most all the the trucks I have worked on, it is a dirty trick to make the race grab the spindle and will help the spindle last a little longer, but is not the long term answer. later robbie
When I did my front end I tried staking on of mine, I had seen one of Robbie's earlier posts on this. Even after staking the bearing would still wobble a little. I'll sell you mine for $50+ shipping:D but you are way better off getting a new one from Cdan as you have already decided.
 
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Somewhere in the foothills...
 
 
derrickbwg said:
Man is that a good discount from a Toyota dealer! Plus it comes with the bushing.
You are going to be even happier when you find out that, in fact, it DOES NOT come with the brass bushing..... The new spindles are an upgraded part (as mentioned by Robbie) and they come with needle bearings; a nice upgrade from the brass bushing.

You made the right choice in getting a new Toyota replacement.

-B-
 
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Nice call. The new bearing will also get rid of that "axle rattle" that you can hear on certain bumps. It's the clearance between the axle shaft and the spindle bushing that produces that low rattle that sounds like there's something large loose in your driver's suspension. This new bearing setup should be tight and it was designed for the diesel torque.

DougM
 

alia176

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Derrick,

Can you post a pic of the new fancy shmancy spindle when you receive it? I've never seen one in person!

Thanks.

Ali
 

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