Spindle bushing question.

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cruiserdan

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Ali and I have been on the phone trying to decide if it matters where the oil groove in the spindle bushing ends up. Does anybody have an old-style spindle to look at? His bushing spun so we have no idea where it started out.

We are interested in the inner groove, not the one on the thrust surface.

TIA


D-
 
I've attached a pic of two new bushings and yhe one old one for comparison. One interesting thing, notice the X groove on the "inside" of the bushings between the new ones and the old one.

The second pic depics how the bushing spun inside the spindle. I was hearing a very slow "rumble strip" sound from the driver side and this is why. The passenger side bushing was visited here few weeks ago if you recall.

The third pic shows water penetration and the formation of rust. :crybaby: Notice a half of teaspoon of reddish puddle at the bottom of the knuckle. This explains the rust color grease on the wheel bearings as well.

Ali
P1100065.jpg
P1100061.jpg
P1100041.jpg
 
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More evidence of water...

I'm not a water person, so the little dunking that took place managed to create this mess on the spindle and on the inside of the knuckle housing.

The birf is apart and shows no indication of corrosion, only the usual sign of wear where the balls reside.

I need confirmation on the second pic. This face of the star faces the inside of the birf where the spring clip resides, no?

Thanks.

Ali
P1100039.jpg
P1100053.jpg
 
On the mini spindle I have the x is at about the 2 o'clock position. I really don't think it will matter, the grooves only purpose is to distribute grease evenly in the bushing. If your putting them in used spindles, I would install them with some Loc-tite.
 
The side showing in the pic goes toward the diff.
 
When I did my 25 front axle, the bushing was oriented with the front face grooves in a vertical position..
 
from memory i think the grooves were at 6 oclock
 
I had the same questions about orientation of the birf parts, Slee posted this witch helps out a lot. shows the orientation of the cage also.
birfield_1.jpg
 
Here is the view of the diff side of my spindle. It is sitting on the surface oriented the right way (i.e., the groove is down when you look at it from the threaded side). The inside of the X seems to be oriented up and down. Do you need any other pictures of it?

As for the star, on the '94, mine seems to only go in one way. If I flip it, I can put all the balls in the cage, but them the star is *impossible* to move once the axle is in. The working orientation of the star is as shown in Christo's pic. My cage is also completely symmetrical and does not have a wide and narrow sides. Does that mean that the birfs in my 94 have been previously replaced? The PO gave me pretty complete records and that was definitely not shown.
spindle.jpg
 
The 80 series cage does not have the wide and narrow ends the manual describes but cage is not completely symetrical although it looks to be that way at first glance, one end is machined on the inner surface, I am not sure of the orientation of the cage is important as the machining apears to be for assembly. but I did it as above just to be safe.

the birf section of the manaul is for the older birfs (Fj-40 though 62, and mini truck) and cannot be used on an 80 series, the 80 birf is diffrent.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=13063
 
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Search strikes again. Interestingly, the '92 (manufactures 11/91) has birfs that look identical to the FSM - thus leading me to repeat the previous threads.

RavenTai said:
The 80 series cage does not have the wide and narrow ends the manual describes but cage is not completely symetrical although it looks to be that way at first glance, one end is machined on the inner surface, I am not sure of the orientation of the cage is important as the machining apears to be for assembly. but I did it as above just to be safe.

the birf section of the manaul is for the older birfs (Fj-40 though 62, and mini truck) and cannot be used on an 80 series, the 80 birf is diffrent.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=13063
 
Thanks fellas for the helpful info. Yes indeed, the Star (offical name?) does go in only one way. When I inserted it incorrectly, there was no swivel action. Took it all apart, and re-inserted correctly and all was well. The wife asked me "is it supposed to be THAT floppy"? Referring to birf of course :flipoff2:

As far as the wide and narrow sides of the cage. As RT mentioned, this is very hard to tell with the naked eye. However, there's defintely a polished side vs non polished side. It went back in the same way it came out.

On a side note, I'm using Schaefer's Moly Lube, can't recall the # of it at the moment. This stuff is very tacky. Let's see how well it works out.

Ali
 
Hi guys thanks for the info. Not to hi jack the thread, but I’ve been having the thumbing sounds coming from the driver’s side. I know I have a bad wheel bearing and need to do a brif job. I knowing that most likely my brass bushing in the spindle is bad. So with that said, my question would be what is the benefit of having bearings in the spindle instead of the bushing? I do know costly. Is it worth buying a new spindle w/ ball bearings?

Thanks, Dan
 
I am needing to do a birf job on both sides and i am afraid that my spindles are dry and need some luvin' too.
but i am going to need to do one side at a time, which will be no fun.
Is there a list of items I am going to need to do the birf rebuild and stuff for fixing the spindle?
I don't have the FSM and i am going to download all of the pages and stuff I need from the online FSM. Wish I had the hard copy, but can't get it by this weekend.
Wish me luck
 
Do a search, check the FAQ, there is tons of info here.

For parts Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a very nice kit, with everything needed including bearings, for about $110, or if you prefer Toyota parts call C-Dan and he will set you up at a good price.
 
livelarg said:
I am needing to do a birf job on both sides and i am afraid that my spindles are dry and need some luvin' too.
but i am going to need to do one side at a time, which will be no fun.
Is there a list of items I am going to need to do the birf rebuild and stuff for fixing the spindle?
I don't have the FSM and i am going to download all of the pages and stuff I need from the online FSM. Wish I had the hard copy, but can't get it by this weekend.
Wish me luck

To add what tool r us said, check out the birf DVD. Jim did a great job on the making of the DVD! His screen name is Elmariachi. I'm pretty much in the same boat your in. the passed month i've been slowly getting my parts together. The DVD help make the proces a lot more clear.

I would like to give C-Dan a big thank you for all his time and knowledge on my corolla projects and my LX450 parts too.
Dan
 
Just wanted to ask about this ... are all you fellas replacing the spindle bushing when you do your front axle service??? I was actually planning to skip that step? Thanks. :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Just wanted to ask about this ... are all you fellas replacing the spindle bushing when you do your front axle service??? I was actually planning to skip that step? Thanks. :cheers:

I've only ever had one worn enough to warrant replacing and that was back in 1994 on a 1991 FJ. All the rest have been fine at each knuckle job.
 
elmariachi said:
I've only ever had one worn enough to warrant replacing and that was back in 1994 on a 1991 FJ. All the rest have been fine at each knuckle job.


Okay so just simply check visually for cracks, chips, etc.? If it does require replacement is the SST shown in the manual necessary or would walking it off with two screwdrivers work? Thanks. :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Okay so just simply check visually for cracks, chips, etc.? If it does require replacement is the SST shown in the manual necessary or would walking it off with two screwdrivers work? Thanks. :cheers:

It has set of grooves inside that I assume channel lubricant. These, along with the back side that faces the birf, should be inspected for abnormal wear. I have never tried to remove one, though I know they can break free and "chatter" if the outer spindle nuts are severly overtightened. Maybe someone else can comment on the dissection process.
 

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