Speed Bleeder Size or Part Number?

[FinallyGotOne!]

Has anyone discovered the size or part number for a speedbleeder replacement for the 200/570 brake bleed fitting? They are made by Earl's, Russell Performance, and Speedbleeder, among others.

Summit Racing just told me to measure my OEM fittings and order the right size. I'd prefer not to go thru that hassle...depth, inside diameter, thread pitch...risky.

Russell Performance specs a part for a 2008 200. Anyone know of a reason why this wouldn't fit a 2011 570?

Thanks

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I have Speedbleeder brand on my 2011 200. Part number is SB7100.

Speedbleeder, as a company, is just some good 'ol honest people making a better product in a sea of big name companies. I have a 3 sets of their stainless steel versions on different cars with a combined 650,000 miles, and no failures. That is with changing the brake fluid every year, so their ball and spring design is built to last.

 

[FinallyGotOne!]

I have Speedbleeder brand on my 2011 200. Part number is SB7100.

Speedbleeder, as a company, is just some good 'ol honest people making a better product in a sea of big name companies. I have a 3 sets of their stainless steel versions on different cars with a combined 650,000 miles, and no failures. That is with changing the brake fluid every year, so their ball and spring design is built to last.

Outstanding! Thanks much! I have used them on a couple of race bikes over the years with zero problems. Just gotta be sure not to over torque!

 

[Narkhelek]

What is a speed bleeder and why do I want one?

 

[FinallyGotOne!]

What is a speed bleeder and why do I want one?

Because they literally make bleeding brakes "speedy". Jack the truck, put a hose/collector on the bleeder, crack it open a quarter turn, press the brake pedal once or twice, close the bleeder, pull the hose, put the truck down, drive away.

I continue to have problems getting the brake pedal on my LX to feel firm, even after a full flush (except for the ABS controller). I am adding the speedbleeders to save sometime until I get it right.
Speed Bleeder Features

 

[Narkhelek]

Ah neat. I never mess with brakes because it's one thing that has to be done right and I'm always worried about not bleeding them correctly. I may have to give these a try next time my brakes need work.

 

[FinallyGotOne!]

I have Speedbleeder brand on my 2011 200. Part number is SB7100.

QUOTE]

For the record, the SB7100 is way too small for MY 2011 LX-570. According to Speed Bleeder Products, correct part number should be SB1010. While on the phone with them, I asked what they listed as part number for a 2011 LC. They said that should take an SB1010 as well and that most Toyota products are one or the other.

I wonder if Toyota would source calipers with different bleeder port sizes in the same model year?

Anyway, great folks at Speed Bleeder. They are shipping out the SB1010 bleeders and including a pre-paid return label.

 

[40Man]

If you are doing the exchange by yourself, speedbleeders make the process easy. I make my wife depress the pedal while I wrench. Pretty simple.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

yea that is weird that the caliper bleed size is different from the LX and LC.

I originally bought the SB1010 as that's what they said would fit and also the tundra, and they were blatantly too big, told Speedbleeder, and they sent me the SB7100 which worked.

So the plot thickens that there may be more differences between LC and LX than we think.

 

[g1701gst]

I installed some speed bleeders on my 2011 LX570 this weekend and thought I would share some of my thoughts. The 10mm x 1.0 is the correct size for my LX. I installed EARLS Solo-Bleed - 10mm x 1.0 Thread x 27mm Long (just barely long enough) - PART# 280022ERL.

I originally installed the Russell speedbleeder 639560, they worked and fit well. I didn't like that they required a 7/16 wrench so I returned them it try something else, hoping it would be metric. Threads came with thread locker pre-applied and included with new caps.

I read good things about Earls Solo bleeders and being an Australian company, I thought they might use a metric size wrench to install. I was wrong and they also use 7/16 also and don't have much surface area for the wench. They didn't feel as solid as the Russells when fully tightened. I found the length to be just barely long enough, the Earl's 280041 in 35mm length would have been a better choice. They did seem to function well when bleeding. These were the double the cost of the Russell's, threads were bare and didn't include caps. Wouldn't buy again.

I couldn't find the Goodridge speed bleeders SB1010-SS (34mm) in the stainless-steel version. Looks like caps are sold separately. Goodridge SB1010 would probably have been a good choice.

I would recommend the Russell 639560(35mm) or Goodridge SB1010 to anyone looking to get these for your LX.

Note the LC may use a different size, 7mm x 1.0.

The picture shows the stock bleeder between the Earls and Russell.

 

[BigMF]

I installed some speed bleeders on my 2011 LX570 this weekend and thought I would share some of my thoughts. The 10mm x 1.0 is the correct size for my LX. I installed EARLS Solo-Bleed - 10mm x 1.0 Thread x 27mm Long (just barely long enough) - PART# 280022ERL.

I originally installed the Russell speedbleeder 639560, they worked and fit well. I didn't like that they required a 7/16 wrench so I returned them it try something else, hoping it would be metric. Threads came with thread locker pre-applied and included with new caps.

I read good things about Earls Solo bleeders and being an Australian company, I thought they might use a metric size wrench to install. I was wrong and they also use 7/16 also and don't have much surface area for the wench. They didn't feel as solid as the Russells when fully tightened. I found the length to be just barely long enough, the Earl's 280041 in 35mm length would have been a better choice. They did seem to function well when bleeding. These were the double the cost of the Russell's, threads were bare and didn't include caps. Wouldn't buy again.

I couldn't find the Goodridge speed bleeders SB1010-SS (34mm) in the stainless-steel version. Looks like caps are sold separately. Goodridge SB1010 would probably have been a good choice.

I would recommend the Russell 639560(35mm) or Goodridge SB1010 to anyone looking to get these for your LX.

Thanks for the write-up!

Quick question: When you install the speed bleeders, do you have to anything other than removing the original bleeders and installing the new ones? Are they under pressure when no one is pressing down on the brakes? Does fluid shoot/pour/drip out? I just want to be prepared with the appropriate container to catch any fluid that might come out when swapping out the bleeders.

 

[TeCKis300]

For as often as I would need to bleed the brakes on the LX, I'm not sure I'd bother with this.

On a race car or track toy, I can see the value, as we're bleeding them all the time for performance and safety.

I prefer to buy a general tool to do 1-man bleeding. My tool of choice is a Motive power bleeder. I've used that tool on Toyota's, Porsche, Honda's, should work on just about anything. Bleeding is quick and easy with that tool.

 

[TLC2013]

Can anyone confirm if the Speed Bleeder part number SB7100 is for both the front and rear brakes?

 

[bloc]

This is pretty far back but 7/16 is almost an exact match for 11mm so that can be used. Not usually in the standard toyota tool kit but a metric wrench can probably be used after all.

 

[KLF]

I have plans to flush all my brake fluid soon, so I went for the Speed Bleeders. I called Russell to confirm the correct number and they assured me the 639560 is the correct one, even if Amazon tells you differently. I have them on my bench now, and can confirm that an 11mm flare wrench fits them perfectly.

Amazon product ASIN B000CPCOAM
The Amazon listing doesn't show it, but they do include the little caps to keep dirt out.

 

[BigMF]

For as often as I would need to bleed the brakes on the LX, I'm not sure I'd bother with this.

On a race car or track toy, I can see the value, as we're bleeding them all the time for performance and safety.

I prefer to buy a general tool to do 1-man bleeding. My tool of choice is a Motive power bleeder. I've used that tool on Toyota's, Porsche, Honda's, should work on just about anything. Bleeding is quick and easy with that tool.

Makes sense. Sometimes I need to temper my urges to go buy every thing folks suggest.

However, the Motive power bleeder might be a different proposition. My wife drives a Highlander. Do you know off the top of your head if the attachment/lid would fit both my 2011 Lexus and her 2017 Highlander or would I need to get a separate one for hers?

 

[KLF]

However, the emotive power bleeder might be a different proposition. My wife drives a Highlander. Do you know off the top of your head if the attachment/lid would fit both my 2011 Lexus and her 2017 Highlander or would I need to get a separate one for hers?

I have a pressure bleeder that I made many years ago with a garden sprayer jug, I have used it waaay more than I expected over the years. Very handy. I have a generic adapter than I made out of a chunk of scrap aluminum, but I decided to get a proper adapter for this truck. Based on the recommendation of another Mudder, I picked up a really nice adapter made by Power Probe, model BA-10. Fits perfectly (even though the application chart on their website says it should take a BA-07).

The only problem is that male coupler, I need to find a female couple that fits it, I think it's a TruFlate fitting. I'm actually working on this today, trying to source the coupler. There's no way to remove it.

 

[CharlieS]

Looks like you could just remove that circlip and it would slide right off.

 

[BigMF]

I have a pressure bleeder that I made many years ago with a garden sprayer jug, I have used it waaay more than I expected over the years. Very handy.

Do you happen to have an image of your homemade pressure bleeder? I may get inspired over the weekend and build one for fun.

 

[KLF]

Do you happen to have an image of your homemade pressure bleeder? I may get inspired over the weekend and build one for fun.

This is from 2002, probably not long after I made it.

I started with a garden sprayer, take the handle and black hose off, swap it over to clear hose so you can see if any air is getting pushed up to the reservoir. Drill a small hole and screw in the pressure gauge. I also added another fitting with a compression type connection, to the ball valve (red handle). What I will sometimes do is turn the air down on my compressor to about 40 psi, then you can see another regulator, it is for an air brush setup, I turn this down to about 15 psi. Makes it so you don't have to keep pumping it back up. Do not go about 15 psi, you risk blowing up the plastic reservoir.

The adapter on top of the reservoir took a few tries to get it to work well. It's made out of some scrap 1/4" aluminum plate, the big eye bolts have a piece of chain that loop under the master cylinder. There is a piece of old inner tube under it (with a hole in the center) that makes it seal. It worked really well with those older reservoirs.

I was in Harbor Freight today and found a decent coupler for Tru Flate fittings, so I'm good for getting connected to the nicer adapter for the Cruiser master cylinder. I guess the other thing I have learned about using this with newer systems is to not allow air into the system, as it messes up the ABS regulator. So my plan with the Cruiser is to suck out as much of the old fluid as I can with a turkey baster, then fill back up with fresh fluid, then dump the rest of the quart into the jug. There's also a step recommended where you run the booster pump, you need TechStream to do this.

Pressure bleeding is really the only option for me, I don't have anybody here to pump the pedal.