Spark Plug Wires Coming Off Cap (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Threads
26
Messages
810
Location
Lake Waconia, MN
1997, 230K, no mods to ignition system.


First time:
Just replaced cap, rotor, spark plugs. Re-used NAPA Belden brand spark plug wires from the previous owner.
New Cap: Bosch (made in Japan). The old and new caps (see below) all have identical markings and numbers, all same manufacture, different boxes when new.
New Rotor: Bosch (made in Japan)
Wires: Napa brand, Belden Max, used

Was running perfectly for 100 miles. Failed when towing trailer, 30mph, 1500 RPM - then instantly died. Pulled over, got the coil wire kinda back in and made it home:

20200822_174703.jpg

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Second Time:
Ran great for 400 miles, but it happened again today. 65 mph, fully loaded, towing trailer 5000 RPM, WOT passing an RV.

Since the first time this occurred I replaced:
Wires: NGK (Japan)
Cap: Duralast (Japan) Has identical numbering and markings as the Bosch, I assume same manufacturer, different box.
Rotor: Duralast (Japan) Has identical numbering and markings as the Bosch, I assume same manufacturer, different box.

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So what am I missing? All the wires snap firmly into place and cannot be removed with a tug.

Anyone else have this occur or am I the only idiot? Toss the $hit cap and rotor and get Toyota? Toyota Wires?

And one more pic for fun:

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Sounds like a good argument for OEM to me.
 
Toyota parts. Toyota parts. Toyota parts.

Three out of five times (master cylinder, u-joints, 100 series steering rack) that I’ve deviated from that guidance I’ve had issues.
 
The nice thing about a set of factory wires, the plug ends that plug into the cap are all correctly "clocked" to snap into a factory cap without putting any strain on the cap towers. If it were me. I'd spend the few extra bucks and buy a set of factory wires, along with a factory cap. My original factory cap and wires lasted 20 years so what more could you ask for.
 
Yep - agree. New Toyota parts coming soon. Hard to believe that quality aftermarket...oh wait, 2020.

Also posted this for other so they don't make the same mistake.

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Yep - agree. New Toyota parts coming soon. Hard to believe that quality aftermarket...oh wait, 2020.

Also posted this for other so they don't make the same mistake.

View attachment 2428329
Breaking a "hammer" is easy, i use to work with some guys that if you gave them an anvil they could figure out a way to break it!
 
Just a thought, from the cheap seats... could it be there's too much dielectric grease on the conducting surfaces? That would increase resistance, resulting in excess heat, and perhaps creating a path of lower resistance towards elsewhere?
I've gone thru that on one of our vehicles (not the Cruisers...), took me a while to figure it out. The final hint was RF interference with the tach, which showed rpms not commensurate with what the engine was doing at the time...
 

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