tried pulling my spark plugs today (for 1st time on new rig) and they wouldn't budge an inch, any tips? i'm too scared of breaking them off, so any little tips, it's a 2F if that really matters
spark plug removal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bad_religion_au
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Get some PB Blaster and soak down those puppies. Wait an hour or two, and give it another shot. I wouldn't use any air tool, just either a good long torque wrench or regular ratchet with breaker bar, I find on stuck nuts and bolts impacts and air ratchets make the problem worse by snapping off heads of bolts and breaking the bolts nuts are on. Then again my mechanic used an impact to remove my sparkplugs right after I bought the cruiser (same day,) cause he was closer to where i bought it than I am, and he didn't have any problems, but he's more skilled than I am. :dunno:
Also,
Do it when the engine is at operating temp...every little bit of heat helps.
Do it when the engine is at operating temp...every little bit of heat helps.
Thats the only thing I'm worried about, I don't know if PB blaster is flammable or not, and I don't think it would do anything to the rings or anything like that, but wd-40 or cheap oil based spray lube might be better than the specialty penetrating oils like PB and Liquid Wrench for that reason.
PB Blaster will definetely burn off even if not as well as WD-40. Also, make sure you use a 6 point socket rather than the 12. Last thing you want to do is put all kinds of torque into getting it off only to end up with a round spark plug. That will make it really tough!
Oh yeah, go get an actual spark plug 6 pointer-they are the perfect depth, 6 points, and have the rubber deal inside so that you are less likely to accidently try to take it at an angle and break the sucker up.
PB Blaster over WD-40 any time when you have to loosen something. WD is a fine light lube or water dispersant, and sure is better than no penitrating oil, but, as stated before on this list, PB Blaster is the Shiznit.
Wonder who said that?
Words to live by....
And when you put the new ones in, put a little antiseize on the threads--you don't have to go nuts, just a little will help when you need to pull them again.
Actually, an old hot rodder told me he used to put cherry Maalox on them (cheaper and less messy than antiseize). Anyone else hear that one?
Actually, an old hot rodder told me he used to put cherry Maalox on them (cheaper and less messy than antiseize). Anyone else hear that one?
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Never use a torque wrench for breaking things loose!!!...They're for tightening...use a breaker bar or long handled ratchet for loosening...six point sockets are a fine idea...
They're for tightening...use a breaker bar or long handled ratchet for loosening...six point sockets are a fine idea...
Why not? I like using the torque wrench cause its about a foot longer than my 1/2" drive ratchet, and I don't have a breaker bar. I just crank it up to its highest setting and wrench away. Oops, guess I shouldn't have used it to break loose every single bolt on the entire suspension that the impact didn't take off... :stupid: I guess it hurts the innards of it or something?Never use a torque wrench for breaking things loose!!!...
I agree with everybody but with the added advice of blowing out any debris with compressed air from the socket area before spraying any lubricant. This ensures no foreign material entering the engine(ex. sand and mud like substance that will clump together when lubricated). slip over an ever increasing longer pipe over your rachet wrench and push slowly till loose. I thought that my 62 plugs were on so tight that they were threaded the opposite direction. Good luck.
I have a 1978 FJ40 I want to change out the plugs, but they sit deep in the engine and I don’t see the room to get a socket on it ? I’m I missing something ?
Since we're necroposting,
Philips Milk-of-Magnesia, unflavored was ok to use on the hot section for some jet engine bolts, fuel nozzle bolts, IIRC.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
The only thing you’re missing is experience. Nothing magic about it. Get a 13/16 one half inch SPARK PLUG socket and get after it.
Do not use a regular socket. Use a spark plug socket.
Do not use a regular socket. Use a spark plug socket.
Last edited:
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Update: I was able to change the plugs out. Found a deep well / thin wall spark plug remover on Amazon that worked like a charm:
Amazon product ASIN B0012W21JS
The old plugs were very worn and rusty, start up was much quicker afterwards. I have a new distributor cap and rotor showing up today which should compliment the situation.
Amazon product ASIN B0012W21JS
The old plugs were very worn and rusty, start up was much quicker afterwards. I have a new distributor cap and rotor showing up today which should compliment the situation.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
@1978FJ40project
When replacing the cap replace only one wire at a time ... that will lessen the ‘oops I made a mistake’
Then when all done if I were u ... I’d replace the spark plug wires ... remove and replace one at a time
When replacing the cap replace only one wire at a time ... that will lessen the ‘oops I made a mistake’
Then when all done if I were u ... I’d replace the spark plug wires ... remove and replace one at a time
When replacing the cap replace only one wire at a time ... that will lessen the ‘oops I made a mistake’
Then when all done if I were u ... I’d replace the spark plug wires ... remove and replace one at a time
[/QUOTE]
Thanks JohnnyC , sound advice. I installed new wires at the same time as the plugs. Had to go on a deep dive to find a distributor cap and rotor... Cruiser Corps had a match, odd though because the distributor on my FJ40 ( which is a 2F Engine) is one that matches a 1F engine ... but it seems past for the course on this rig!
Then when all done if I were u ... I’d replace the spark plug wires ... remove and replace one at a time
[/QUOTE]
Thanks JohnnyC , sound advice. I installed new wires at the same time as the plugs. Had to go on a deep dive to find a distributor cap and rotor... Cruiser Corps had a match, odd though because the distributor on my FJ40 ( which is a 2F Engine) is one that matches a 1F engine ... but it seems past for the course on this rig!
