spark plug removal

Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
2,210
tried pulling my spark plugs today (for 1st time on new rig) and they wouldn't budge an inch, any tips? i'm too scared of breaking them off, so any little tips, it's a 2F if that really matters
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
6,364
Location
Georgia Tech
Get some PB Blaster and soak down those puppies. Wait an hour or two, and give it another shot. I wouldn't use any air tool, just either a good long torque wrench or regular ratchet with breaker bar, I find on stuck nuts and bolts impacts and air ratchets make the problem worse by snapping off heads of bolts and breaking the bolts nuts are on. Then again my mechanic used an impact to remove my sparkplugs right after I bought the cruiser (same day,) cause he was closer to where i bought it than I am, and he didn't have any problems, but he's more skilled than I am. :dunno:
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
1,501
Location
Kennett Square
Also,

Do it when the engine is at operating temp...every little bit of heat helps.
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2002
Messages
1,196
Location
Utah
wd-40

any excess that enters the piston will easy burn or be blown out in the first compressions.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
6,364
Location
Georgia Tech
wd-40

any excess that enters the piston will easy burn or be blown out in the first compressions.
Thats the only thing I'm worried about, I don't know if PB blaster is flammable or not, and I don't think it would do anything to the rings or anything like that, but wd-40 or cheap oil based spray lube might be better than the specialty penetrating oils like PB and Liquid Wrench for that reason.
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2002
Messages
19
PB Blaster will definetely burn off even if not as well as WD-40. Also, make sure you use a 6 point socket rather than the 12. Last thing you want to do is put all kinds of torque into getting it off only to end up with a round spark plug. That will make it really tough!
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
6,364
Location
Georgia Tech
Oh yeah, go get an actual spark plug 6 pointer-they are the perfect depth, 6 points, and have the rubber deal inside so that you are less likely to accidently try to take it at an angle and break the sucker up.
 

Gumby

Supamod
s-Moderator
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
12,387
Location
Knee deep in hookers and gin
PB Blaster over WD-40 any time when you have to loosen something. WD is a fine light lube or water dispersant, and sure is better than no penitrating oil, but, as stated before on this list, PB Blaster is the Shiznit.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
1,557
Location
If ya don't know, I ain't tellin'
And when you put the new ones in, put a little antiseize on the threads--you don't have to go nuts, just a little will help when you need to pull them again.

Actually, an old hot rodder told me he used to put cherry Maalox on them (cheaper and less messy than antiseize). Anyone else hear that one?
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2003
Messages
2,075
Location
Columbia, MO
Website
www.tornadoalleycruisers.com
Never use a torque wrench for breaking things loose!!!...:)They're for tightening...use a breaker bar or long handled ratchet for loosening...six point sockets are a fine idea...
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
6,364
Location
Georgia Tech
Never use a torque wrench for breaking things loose!!!...:)
Why not? I like using the torque wrench cause its about a foot longer than my 1/2" drive ratchet, and I don't have a breaker bar. I just crank it up to its highest setting and wrench away. Oops, guess I shouldn't have used it to break loose every single bolt on the entire suspension that the impact didn't take off... :stupid:  I guess it hurts the innards of it or something?
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2002
Messages
1,217
Location
NW side of chicago
I agree with everybody but with the added advice of blowing out any debris with compressed air from the socket area before spraying any lubricant. This ensures no foreign material entering the engine(ex. sand and mud like substance that will clump together when lubricated). slip over an ever increasing longer pipe over your rachet wrench and push slowly till loose. I thought that my 62 plugs were on so tight that they were threaded the opposite direction. Good luck.
 
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
141
Location
california
I have a 1978 FJ40 I want to change out the plugs, but they sit deep in the engine and I don’t see the room to get a socket on it ? I’m I missing something ?
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
426
Location
NoCo, above FoCo... mofo!
And when you put the new ones in, put a little antiseize on the threads--you don't have to go nuts, just a little will help when you need to pull them again.

Actually, an old hot rodder told me he used to put cherry Maalox on them (cheaper and less messy than antiseize). Anyone else hear that one?
Since we're necroposting, :flipoff2: Philips Milk-of-Magnesia, unflavored was ok to use on the hot section for some jet engine bolts, fuel nozzle bolts, IIRC.
 

John McVicker

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
3,798
Location
Big Pine, CA
The only thing you’re missing is experience. Nothing magic about it. Get a 13/16 one half inch SPARK PLUG socket and get after it.

Do not use a regular socket. Use a spark plug socket.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
141
Location
california
Update: I was able to change the plugs out. Found a deep well / thin wall spark plug remover on Amazon that worked like a charm:

Amazon product

The old plugs were very worn and rusty, start up was much quicker afterwards. I have a new distributor cap and rotor showing up today which should compliment the situation.
 

JohnnyC

Long ago TLCA# 2231
Joined
Jun 17, 2005
Messages
17,048
Location
UpState Ny, Wells Me
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
141
Location
california
When replacing the cap replace only one wire at a time ... that will lessen the ‘oops I made a mistake’

Then when all done if I were u ... I’d replace the spark plug wires ... remove and replace one at a time
[/QUOTE]
Thanks JohnnyC , sound advice. I installed new wires at the same time as the plugs. Had to go on a deep dive to find a distributor cap and rotor... Cruiser Corps had a match, odd though because the distributor on my FJ40 ( which is a 2F Engine) is one that matches a 1F engine ... but it seems past for the course on this rig!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom