spare parts wanted (1 Viewer)

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DSRTRDR

I can mangle anything ...
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Baton Rouge, LA and Fountain Hills, AZ
Michael says he doesn't know how to change a Birfield on the trail (not that we particularly care to find out ;p) and would feel better to have a whole axle shaft assembly for spare. I am looking for the parts for a course spline front axle that originally had drum brakes.

Also, I am interested in a rear drive shaft; but I need help first in determining what transfer case I have; how can I check? (the 4 spd transmission is presumably from a '76, but I have no idea whether it is mated to a '76 or the original '72 transfer case). Any advice is appreciated.
 
Tim Hill in Marana has many parts for the 40 and can tell you exactly what you have and what you need - if you get a chance to visit with him you can learn a great deal about the history of the fj40 (520) 616-0304 - thill2@mindspring.com
 
DSRTRDR said:
Michael says he doesn't know how to change a Birfield on the trail (not that we particularly care to find out ;p) and would feel better to have a whole axle shaft assembly for spare. I am looking for the parts for a course spline front axle that originally had drum brakes.

Also, I am interested in a rear drive shaft; but I need help first in determining what transfer case I have; how can I check? (the 4 spd transmission is presumably from a '76, but I have no idea whether it is mated to a '76 or the original '72 transfer case). Any advice is appreciated.

DSRTRDR,
Call Kurt for used parts. He'll definately give you the fair price on used parts. I would not want to take the birfield apart either-They would have to be separated with creativity in the field.

Here is the tcase info from MUD.
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/cases.php
I think the external casting ribs are different for different year ranges.
 
why would it take creativity to seperate a birf on the trail? dont all you need is a pipe? what about a high lift jack handle? then throw a hose clamp in the truck ta put it back on? maybe im misunderstanding..


cheers
mike
 
aww come awwn,, changing the whole axle ass is the same as just a birf. to seperate on the trail or anywhere just take along a length of 1.5" pipe. (which is usefull for many other trail repairs as well). oh and before you argue the length/weight of the pipe remember you would have not one but two axle shafts AND two birfs.
 
RHINO said:
aww come awwn,, changing the whole axle ass is the same as just a birf. to seperate on the trail or anywhere just take along a length of 1.5" pipe. (which is usefull for many other trail repairs as well). oh and before you argue the length/weight of the pipe remember you would have not one but two axle shafts AND two birfs.

This is Michael: I don't even do U-joints on my own truck :) , I like to carry spares like axle shafts and driveshafts pre-assembled and ready to swap in. Saves time and curse words.

That being said, and being new to this Toyota stuff, could someone point me to a link about a (MUD - approved?) trail procedure of changin' Birfields - I'd appreciate it.

And Claudia doesn't argue about the weight, probably because all such stuff is going to go in her chase truck a.k.a. my K5, where at 6200lbs. it doesn't seem to matter anymore :cool:
 
Not that this helps at all, but I have spare parts for my front axle, and I don't pack 'em. With lockers I fugure it will be easier to remove the broken axle shaft/birfield and drive it home that way. Perhaps someone can flame me with the reasons this isn't sound procedure? I suppose it's possible to get myself into a situation that I couldn't drive out of, and if that happened I'd have to rely on the goodwill of someone on the trail to strap me through whatever difficulties arise. Is there a mechanical reason this won't work?

-Spike
 
RHINO said:
aww come awwn,, changing the whole axle ass is the same as just a birf. to seperate on the trail or anywhere just take along a length of 1.5" pipe. (which is usefull for many other trail repairs as well). oh and before you argue the length/weight of the pipe remember you would have not one but two axle shafts AND two birfs.

IF I were going to pack parts, I'd pack both axle shafts and one birf.

-Spike
 
-Spike- said:
Not that this helps at all, but I have spare parts for my front axle, and I don't pack 'em. With lockers I fugure it will be easier to remove the broken axle shaft/birfield and drive it home that way. Perhaps someone can flame me with the reasons this isn't sound procedure? I suppose it's possible to get myself into a situation that I couldn't drive out of, and if that happened I'd have to rely on the goodwill of someone on the trail to strap me through whatever difficulties arise. Is there a mechanical reason this won't work?

-Spike

I agree with your logic.
 
Tools R Us said:
I agree with your logic.


As do I... cause I've done it. But I do however now carry a spare birf and no axle shafts.

I've got what you need though in the front axle of the burnt 45. We can work something out I'm sure.
 
Anyone local ever broken a birf? Details?

-Spike (Wondering if it's an issue)
 
image025x.jpg



Album:http://photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Upper Woodpecker-Nov 04/

It weren't fun either! My first one and I had never been in the axle prior to that. I learned that once it pops you change it where you sit. Do not drive on it unles absolutely mandatory. Also learned that you can pull the birf and inner completely out and drive home in 3 wheel if you need to (Assuming a front locker is installed).
 
Still pimpin that sweet assed draglink too. Damn I need to get off my ass and fix my junk.
 
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but this seems pertinent. When you cleaned the birf cup, was there any signs of wear, the typical wear marks from the balls? Mileage on the birfs? I'm working on a theory (not mine, but I'll take it) that worn birf cups are more likely to break due to the ball becoming stuck in the wear marks when turning under power.

-Spike
 
-Spike- said:
IF I were going to pack parts, I'd pack both axle shafts and one birf.

-Spike

just curious but whens the last time someone broke an axle shaft? just curious? as i was under the understanding that the Birf was the "weak" part and caused the most problems, i understand carrying to many spares never hurt anyone but there not exaclty something you can just throw in the old tool box.

mike
 
The reason I'd carry them, IF, is that it's be easier to pop the appropriate axle into the birf than it would be to remove the axle shaft from the broken birf. The shafts don't take up as much room as the birf IMHO as the relatively low profile shaft can be tucked anywhere. Plus, IF I was going to carry spares, may as well carry everything that could break, within reason. I guess it's the term 'within reason' that's in question.

-Spike
 
DSRTRDR said:
That being said, and being new to this Toyota stuff, could someone point me to a link about a (MUD - approved?) trail procedure of changin' Birfields - I'd appreciate it.

This is from http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173918

Birfield - How to change one quickly Camo method

I wonder how many of you guys out there are aware of the "Camo Method" of replacing Birfields on a Toy axle:

Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Sawp in your parts.
Put it back together.

It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.
 
-Spike- said:
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but this seems pertinent. When you cleaned the birf cup, was there any signs of wear, the typical wear marks from the balls? Mileage on the birfs? I'm working on a theory (not mine, but I'll take it) that worn birf cups are more likely to break due to the ball becoming stuck in the wear marks when turning under power.

-Spike

Posted in 80 Tech.

-Spike
 
I believe the "Camo method" requires a martack modified axle to get the angle for the lower trunnion bearing to come out.
 
Or, you could pull the lower cap, couldn'tcha? If you had to, that is.

-Spike
 

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