I'm finally tearing into the interior to clean up a little surface rust in the floorboards before it gets bad and plan to go ahead and spray Second Skin Spectrum over the interior. Most people seem to remove the factory sound deadening but I'm wondering why? It is in no way coming up(and apparently is a pain to get off anyway) so is there any reason I can't spray over it?
Sound deadening question
- Thread starter tclark
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I have heard of rust hidden under the 'Toyota Tar'. I think this is one of those decisions that is based on the condition of your rig. If you are rust free, covering the factory asphalt with Second Skin won't cause problems. The area just inboard and near the center of the rear wheel wells is where my rig had issues.
The most common remedy I'ver heard of is freezing it with dry ice and shattering the tar loose with a rubber hose. Hopefully someone else will chime in with whether that works or not. I haven't tried it.
The most common remedy I'ver heard of is freezing it with dry ice and shattering the tar loose with a rubber hose. Hopefully someone else will chime in with whether that works or not. I haven't tried it.
The only place I have not seen rust is under the tar. Id leave it. Mike
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys. I don't have much rust at all really, just minor surface rust. Everything feels and appears solid so I reckon I'll just clean it up and roll with it.
Leave it. Good choice on the product (albeit pricey).
A good quality layer of closed cell foam followed by a mass loader like MLV will go a looong way to reducing road noise ie. make your interor feel like a tomb (think mercedes, lexus).
A noise/heat barrier at the firewall also is a great bang for buck.
cheers
A good quality layer of closed cell foam followed by a mass loader like MLV will go a looong way to reducing road noise ie. make your interor feel like a tomb (think mercedes, lexus).
A noise/heat barrier at the firewall also is a great bang for buck.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #6
Yeah not sure how far I'll go with the sound deadening; first I just want to spray the Spectrum to seal everything up and prevent future rust(hopefully!) I hope to go all out with it but the danged budget keeps saying otherwise!
Finnyfam60
Driving miss daisy
dbleon said:
Inside or outside? What product?
- Thread starter
- #8
I originally wanted to spray Second Skin's Firewall(I think that was the name of it) but they must not make it anymore. Probably use Lizardskin plus some mat. Trying to decide right now if I want to totally remove the dash stuff so I can get to the firewall. Already got the rest of the interior stripped so why not!
the dry ice works like a charm. have done it to a couple of race cars i've helped build. dump it on the floor spread it around, (WEAR THICK GLOVES) wait till it starts to look like a rock concert on the floor, and hit it with a hammer, dead blow. i used a impact hammer on low setting. you don't have to hit it all that hard.
The reason you would remove the OEM noise dampening is because while it's hard to get off, it's not stuck that tight. There are different types of noise dampeners, the primary ones reduce the vibration of the body. This requires a solid bond to the body. The OEM material has gaps, it's not consistently bonded to the metal anymore. You remove it so you can apply a product that is consistently bonded to the body, which makes for better noise reduction.
I used the dry ice method...it took me about 12 hours to remove all of the OEM noise dampener. Not hard, just tedious.
I used the dry ice method...it took me about 12 hours to remove all of the OEM noise dampener. Not hard, just tedious.
x2 same here
- Thread starter
- #12
After a little more messing around I think I am going to take it off. I found several places where the edges were a little loose and one spot had a little surface rust under that edge. Out it comes!
- Thread starter
- #13
I thought(hoped is probably a better term really) that 12 hrs was a typo---now I know better. Got some dry ice today and got after it; waaaaay better than getting it up without but holy crap is this a labor of love or what----this is gonna take forever! Not real difficult just slow and tedious. I'm gonna need more beer...
Might have been 14 hours...can't really remember. LOL. Good tunes help, rice farming is harder, remember that you are doing this by choice, and let the time just flow...
My truck is lots quieter. I did the doors also. Also replaced the rubber door seals.
My truck is lots quieter. I did the doors also. Also replaced the rubber door seals.
I took some of mine off on a freezing day, slam slam, broke up like crazy. Guess thats not a option in LA though 
- Thread starter
- #16
Yeah I just kinda settled into the fact that this is gonna be a time consuming project so I just gotta roll with it. Hopefully I can take my time and do it right and never worry about it again.
What all did you put down for deadner?
What all did you put down for deadner?
It took me a while but I just went with Elbow grease. I would have tried the Dry Ice but couldn't find a source in Saint Louis. I then skinned everything with cruisercrap.
I used the Lizard Skin, Sound Deadener and the Ceramic Insulation. on the underside of the floor pan and the inside of the roof. Next up is the inside floor and door skins. The stuff works very well for sound and the heat reduction is stated at 30 degrees. Sprays on easy, but pricey.
- Thread starter
- #20
Awesome--I may use some of the Lizardskin ceramic insulation also. If I had a way to take the cab off I'd spray the bottom too. Do you have it back on the road yet; if so how does it work?
