Sound Deadening a 60 for a quieter ride

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This all started with wanting to reduce the whine from my 3.0:1 low range gears. Every time in backed off the throttle I could
hear how quiet it used to be. Now a 60 is actually a fairly quiet rig, I have a 12HT with 3” exhaust and a flow master muffler. I
like quiet, when I roll up onto a wild animal I don’t want my noisy truck to scare it away. Also, I want to be able to enjoy long drives through the mountains without having the back off the throttle to enjoy some pieces and quiet either.
So I got online and started researching. Dynamat seemed to be the acronym for sound proofing. I emailed, got a quick response and I have to admit the website is very well done and highly informative.
I got online and being in Canada I compared amazon.com to amazon.ca - this led me to the introduction of www.noico.com
Noico is a huge company providing sound deadening technology to the entire automotive industrial world.

I found three main companies under the Noico header. Noico, Kilmatt, and Mat66. This is where the comparison with Dynamat happened. The Noico product was far less expensive. Let me say, the actual sound deadener is essentially the same product. It is comprised of a Butylmastic with foil outer layer. The higher quality, Noico and Dynamat are asphalt free. So they don’t offgas and are essentially odourless. Dynamat Extreme is about 40 ml thick - 1 mm. They offer second layer matting as well.
Noico through the three companies offered 50 ml, 80 ml and through Matt66 120 ml - 3 times the thickness of the Dynamat Extreme.

My research led me to the conclusion that sound deadener is kinda like batteries, bigger is better. So I went with the Matt66. Noico Green 175 ml closed cell foam for second layer.


Enough typing, here is a pic of my truck. Just so you know, I do long trips up into the northern parts of BC and Yukon.
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This was a huge job, it’s almost done now, but the start was interior removal and clean up. I didn’t even find any of my own money, but I did find my Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver I lost 5 years ago under the carpet on the passenger side! Dumbass!

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After 3 hrs of using a heat gun and small scraper it wasn’t working. I needed to remove all the old
factory sound deadener. A buddy handed me a 3 lb dead blow hammer and said do it when it’s cold.
1 hr later all done! 😀 Thank you, PeeZed. I still haven’t done the rear deck, just want to get the biggest job done first.

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I have not tried it, but I hear dry ice works wonders for making that sound deadener so crispy it shatters with a hammer.
 
Yeah, I heard that. WTF am I gonna do with a bunch of dry ice when I'm done and where do I get it in the
first place? So that idea did sorta come and go. I used varsol/paint thinner to clean it all up when it had been
removed. The basic idea is, if masking tape sticks to the surface then the sound deadener will too.

As you can see in the upper photo, I drilled all the brackets from under the seats out. I don't carry all the factory jack
equipment like that, and it really does take up way too much space. Ultimately the decision was made to remove the
under seat heater forever. I can sure use the cargo area and since I've not had a back seat in 10 yrs I don't expect it to
be needed. Although, when winter travelling I used to put the fridge/freezer over the heater otherwise it was warmer in
the fridge than outside and it never turned on. So heating the outside thermostat would trick the fridge into running.
 
I went this route:

The foam makes a big difference. Stinks for a few months, but after that it's fine.
 
Yeah, I heard that. WTF am I gonna do with a bunch of dry ice when I'm done and where do I get it in the
first place? So that idea did sorta come and go. I used varsol/paint thinner to clean it all up when it had been
removed. The basic idea is, if masking tape sticks to the surface then the sound deadener will too.

As you can see in the upper photo, I drilled all the brackets from under the seats out. I don't carry all the factory jack
equipment like that, and it really does take up way too much space. Ultimately the decision was made to remove the
under seat heater forever. I can sure use the cargo area and since I've not had a back seat in 10 yrs I don't expect it to
be needed. Although, when winter travelling I used to put the fridge/freezer over the heater otherwise it was warmer in
the fridge than outside and it never turned on. So heating the outside thermostat would trick the fridge into running.


Dry ice is available at my local grocery store. In the front of store, kinda where the other ice is. Ask at the register.
 
You are certain to enjoy the quieter experience. Good progress.
 
I didn't, I just pounded on it with a deadblow.
The drivers floor had some old surface rust, not as bad as I'd feared, so it got a rust converter called Corroseal from
local Cloverdale Paints. That pic is me using a heat lamp just to encourage it to dry a bit faster.
All the areas that were covered with good factory stuff were in mint condition. Made the job easier but the truck
itself is in pretty decent shape anyhow.

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Bucket of old stuff, weight off - weight on. I think the new stuff is heavier..
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This is about 4-5 hrs of work. The instructions say to cut templates so you don't waste it. I sorta layed it out a bit and cut it
as I went. I used a pair of linesman scissors and a cutter. It has to have tight tolerances, no gaps.

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This pictures are kinda mixed up, I was using an ipad and phone and didn't realize it had no continuity, so I downloaded to the
laptop and just figured I'd post a bunch of them. This butyl stuff was the worst, it's about 11-12 hrs to do the whole floor properly.
they sell a sticky foil tape but its the same as any hardware store. 2" wide, and a pain in the ass until you figure out a system.
The Butyl sound deadener has to be solid, no gaps. The foil is to seal the seams and I've also realized keeps the sticky from everything
when it's sets up and gets warm. Ugly stuff when its warm. It actually went okay over the wheel wells. I have to use the factory foam vinyl covers so this stuff is just thick enough so it fits back on okay and keeps the noise from coming through.

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On top of the sound deadener I layed on 170 ml Noico Green closed cell foam. This is sound deadener and insulation.
Being closed cell it won't absorb water. However it is not tough stuff so once it's on got to be careful and it needs a cover layer.
I guess I only took a couple of pictures of that stuff. The cardboard template is for the final layer of mass loaded vinyl.

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The mass loaded vinyl was overkill. Its to provide the final layer against what I hoped was the higher whine of the low
range gear set. It's stiff, and fragile, but in the end not too hard to work with. It does protect the Noico 170 Green foam
and makes for a very finished floor. Son of a bitch to cut out all the holes for seat belts, consoles, seat brackets etc.


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Did you measure your decibel readings at speed in the cab before you started? Curious as to the before and after
 
Did you measure your decibel readings at speed in the cab before you started? Curious as to the before and after
I didn't before I stripped it. I did take a reading with totally bare, shifter cover just laying on top and no
door seals, windows open. -- 99 dB!! It was awful!
 

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