Sound deadener over Toyota tar mat? (1 Viewer)

[Bryan062087]

I spent all afternoon and most of the night prepping and laying sound deadener in my truck, only to read on mud when I got home that I should have chiseled away the toyota tar mat before I laid the sound deadener down.

I used QuietCrap. Does anyone know if its ok to place it over the tar mat? And if not, how less effective the sound deadener is if not placed directly on the metal and instead over the tar?

Thanks.

 

[austinmark]

i don't know if you're gonna find a decibel-to-decibel comparison of over or not over the tar paper, but i'll tell you that i put mark's QC over the tar paper in my 62 and had great results. i also put in the mcmaster-carr acoustical dampening foam, for what it's worth. don't sweat it.

 

[Bryan062087]

Is that foam closed cell? I was thinking about getting that foam too.

 

[lovetoski]

The reason you want to install the sound deadener directly to the metal instead of to the OEM tar is because it works best at dampening vibration when it's in direct contact with the material that's vibrating. Some percentage of the OEM tar is still stuck tight, some is not anymore. So, yes you would have a better end result if you'd removed the OEM material...but since you've already installed the new dampener, I wouldn't sweat it too much. While what you did isn't "optimum" it's good enough, and you'll get significant improvement.

Also keep in mind that there are multiple aspects to a noise abatemenet project...door seals, doors, hood, floor, firewall, wheelwells, and there are multiple products for some of these areas. Also, I was pretty impressed by putting two layers over the tranny hump.

 

[Bryan062087]

Thanks. If I could do it over again I'd remove the tar. But man that seems like a lot of work.

The QuietCrap stuff seems great so far!

 

[surffj62]

did the same thing- it helps a lot but putting it over the toyota mat is no big deal- mine was stuck down good so it figured why not- if you have extra, really put a lot on and around tranny hump and drivers floor board etc- also in the doors- a 6 x 20 inch strip is fine but more is better- just deadens the vibration- lots of good threads

 

[slcfj62]

I installed mine over the factory dampener as well. Works great.

 

[Sloan]

I am getting ready to do mine and I am having a really hard time motivating myself to remove the old tar. I have two kids so just finding the time to disassemble and install the Dynamat has been a challenge.

 

[austinmark]

sloan: don't bother. i have a feeling that it's not worth the effort.

bryan: it is that stuff. i'll send you a link in the morning. it's really worth it and very easy to install.

 

[jp78fj40]

flooring

I want a "Hose out" fj40. needs to be very waterproof (NO CARPET!!!)
should I just install a bedliner type of product over factory tar? seems like most guys are ok w/ going over orig.

 

[NLXTACY]

Removing the factory tar does NOT have to be hard work at all. In fact you can make it really fun and really easy. Have your kid due and make it even more fun. Go to your local ice shop and pick up about 10-15 lbs of dry ice. Place it in a bag and bash it with a hammer until its in small pieces. Then just lay the bag over the tar mat. Every 4 minutes move it to a section where you haven't cooled yet. That spot where you JUST removed the dry ice bag....bang it a few times with a hammer then brush away the chunks. It looks like frozen chocolate when you are removing the pieces. It could not be easier, trust me.

 

[jfnall]

i used a spray on sound deadener and 2 layers of closed cell foam. No foam inside the doors, but I did spray inside the doors. Man what a difference. WELL worth the trouble.

I wish there was an easy way to take out the headliner, because that is the only area I have significant noise now, along the roof to window area. There is no jute backing all the way to the edge inside the the headliner.

great tip with the dry ice.

 

[RisingSunLCS]

That dry ice idea is grand. I used a heat gun and a scraper. Then soaked the floor and a rag with varosol. Did the job really well but time consuming. Ive been told that the products by Second Skin Sound Deadening Materials are best a little $$$ though. I think i might buy some of the OverKill Pro and do my floor and roof. Ill be sure to post my findings on how it works out.

 

[alaska60]

Removing the factory tar does NOT have to be hard work at all. In fact you can make it really fun and really easy. Have your kid due and make it even more fun. Go to your local ice shop and pick up about 10-15 lbs of dry ice. Place it in a bag and bash it with a hammer until its in small pieces. Then just lay the bag over the tar mat. Every 4 minutes move it to a section where you haven't cooled yet. That spot where you JUST removed the dry ice bag....bang it a few times with a hammer then brush away the chunks. It looks like frozen chocolate when you are removing the pieces. It could not be easier, trust me.

thats an awesome idea.....
thanks for sharing that one!
In my back pocket now.

 

[cruiserjunktion]

I did not remove my Toyota tar with the idea that 2x layers of deadener is better than one.

I would apply over the tar again.

 

[saucebox]

Removing the factory tar does NOT have to be hard work at all. In fact you can make it really fun and really easy. Have your kid due and make it even more fun. Go to your local ice shop and pick up about 10-15 lbs of dry ice. Place it in a bag and bash it with a hammer until its in small pieces. Then just lay the bag over the tar mat. Every 4 minutes move it to a section where you haven't cooled yet. That spot where you JUST removed the dry ice bag....bang it a few times with a hammer then brush away the chunks. It looks like frozen chocolate when you are removing the pieces. It could not be easier, trust me.

Just did this tonight. $15 and 15 minutes, literally. There is no more tar in my 60; I got the hump, the floors, the cargo area, and the firewall (mine's totally stripped now, so access is easy). Cleaning up all the chunks took a little bit longer even than getting all that tar off the floor.

 

[Skniper]

I'm no expert on this, but...

I've read damn near every thread on sound deadening and totally understand why it is "better" to have the sound deadener product stuck directly to the sheet metal..........but, after looking at the factory tar stuff and how well it's stuck on, IMHO its just fine to lay the stick-on stuff right over it using good technique of really conforming it to the surface. It's a double layer of deadener and heat barrier IMO. Just prep the surface well for good adhesion.
Otherwise you are splitting hairs on the quality of noise control on a 3rd world designed,solid axle, leaf sprung, 4x4 truck....Jus' sayin'.

My plan is to do this then remove all the jute from the back of the carpet and layer a closed cell foam mat in its place.

Jute sucks. It holds 20 years of funk, it holds water, then it holds mildew on top of 20 years of funk. Jus' funky.

 

[87CRUSR]

I just laid the Quietc**p on the floor this weekend. I only removed some of the OEM stuff off the rear cargo area where it was comprimised due to leaking fluids/solvents. Doors to follow. I like the idea of closed foam cell instad of jute.

I have the headliner off and was considering adding something on the roof as well before I replace with new vinyl material (easier to clean being the motivation for the swap). Anyone else placed sound deadening on the roof? Suggestions welcome.

 

[Skniper]

I just laid the Quietc**p on the floor this weekend. I only removed some of the OEM stuff off the rear cargo area where it was comprimised due to leaking fluids/solvents. Doors to follow. I like the idea of closed foam cell instad of jute.

I have the headliner off and was considering adding something on the roof as well before I replace with new vinyl material (easier to clean being the motivation for the swap). Anyone else placed sound deadening on the roof? Suggestions welcome.

I would think the underside of the roof would be a good place for spray on deadener. I would worry about heat and gravity with stick on stuff over the long term.

Even better if you could combine sound deadening with a radiant barrier type of paint that is used in building