Sound Damping the Doors (1 Viewer)

[ginericLC]

One problem with using like a sleeping pad is that they absorb water. You don't want anything in your truck that absorbs water and then holds it against the steel.

 

[BG_TX]

Wouldn't jute absorb water just the same? I have not done my insulation yet but I planned on doing a thorough layer of quietcrap then a layer of padding (the padding would absorb water). I assume the quietcrap or other comparable products would create a sealed barrier between the padding and the metal (providing it is installed well), is my assumption wrong?

 

[mmw68]

I think Eric is talking about doors, and door do get water in them and should have drain holes in the bottom. Inside the truck should be ok I would think?

 

[Skniper]

One problem with using like a sleeping pad is that they absorb water. You don't want anything in your truck that absorbs water and then holds it against the steel.

It has to be a closed cell foam that wont take on water......like Ensolite that RAAMAudio sells or Second Skin's Overkill. I will use one of these products as my "new" vapor barrier/deadener in between the interior panel and door frame.
It's thin.

 

[kling-on]

Ok I dont see anyone talkin about it but do you put it only as the vapor barrier or on the outer door skin too ??? and if you do put it on the outer do you do it all or just a strip

 

[ntsqd]

One problem with using like a sleeping pad is that they absorb water. You don't want anything in your truck that absorbs water and then holds it against the steel.

It has to be a closed cell foam that wont take on water......like Ensolite that RAAMAudio sells or Second Skin's Overkill. I will use one of these products as my "new" vapor barrier/deadener in between the interior panel and door frame.
It's thin.

Specifically Ensolite or similar back-packing type sleeping pads. I was careful to mention the brand name, but I guess the reason should have been stated too. Definitely NOT the open cell foam from your tent trailer.

 

[surffj62]

As for the heat and the peel and seal- I have some under the hood- Pulled the insulation down and looked at it- After 5 years of heat soak it has not had any affect to it either getting brittle or drooping and losing tack.

 

[esh]

Ok I dont see anyone talkin about it but do you put it only as the vapor barrier or on the outer door skin too ??? and if you do put it on the outer do you do it all or just a strip

Yes, at least a layer on the outer skin and a layer shown in the pics above gives better effect. RAAMAudio also recommends 3-4 layers on the outer skin behind the speaker.

 

[jimi5Stone]

Road/wind noise is a differnt beast as I explained in my previous post... You need a barrier (ie. foam, jute, MLV, etc) to dampen this spectrum of noise.

Dan

OK, thats what I was thinking...again, not in the know here on noise spectrums so some of your terminology loses me...MLV?, de-coupling?

I'll stick to the 25% coverage rule with the stick-on stuff on the body metal. My goal is to strip off the factory plastic vapor barrier and black goo. I want a thin layer of foam, jute, soft barrier that will block "wind" noise AND help re-seal the door panel.
So, is something like Luxury Liner what I would want there? Is it thin enough to fit in between the interior panel and door frame?
Thanks for any advice.
[/QUOTE]
I’m about to do the same thing. Did you get a response to this? Did you fit the MLV with foam between door and door card?

 

[Richfj60]

Not to hijack the thread, but has anyone used Cascade Audio Engineering door skins? I was thinking about using them.