SOS - HDJ81 Stalls when put into gear. (1 Viewer)

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New Mexico
We’re on a road trip and the truck has been driving fine but just now the truck is stalling when I put it in drive, reverse, or anything other than neutral. It’s the hydraulic A442F in a 1990 HDJ81. Checked the best I can for vacuum hoses with leaks to no avail. Idle is set fine too.

After talking to a few people, they think it's a trans fluid issue. I haven't drained and filled the transmission in about a year and a half. I use Transynd fluid and it is darker than normal but the AT temp hasn't gotten high at all in that time, so I guess I didn't think to change it. We've put about 15k miles on the truck in that time.

I doubt I can find Transynd in stock here in Austin, Texas before we have to leave town on Monday, so does anyone know a good alternative to Transynd just to get me 1500 miles back to SoCal? How is Mobil Delvac Synthetic? I've got a new filter and plenty of Transynd there. I'm just glad this happened in Austin and not somewhere in the middle of nowhere in West Texas...
 
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Have you tried the Chevy dealers here in town.
 
Just curious!
Has the ACSD been removed?
If not you could have metal shavings in the filter at fuel cutoff solenoid, or worst case into the IP.
If the ACSD has been removed the pump will have a blanking plate.
Now you could add the backing plate and back flush or vacuum any shavings thus saving you from opening the IP if this just happened.
 
What is it idling at? It wont be the transmission fluid unless its the wrong fluid. 18 months and 15000miles is not much.
How about your fuel filters, have they been changed in recent history?
 
What is it idling at? It wont be the transmission fluid unless its the wrong fluid. 18 months and 15000miles is not much.
How about your fuel filters, have they been changed in recent history?

Idling per the FSM (850). New filter a month ago. LRA tank added this summer and the pre-filter/screen was clean during install..

Just curious!
Has the ACSD been removed?
If not you could have metal shavings in the filter at fuel cutoff solenoid, or worst case into the IP.
If the ACSD has been removed the pump will have a blanking plate.
Now you could add the backing plate and back flush or vacuum any shavings thus saving you from opening the IP if this just happened.

Rebuilt pump last year. ACSD removed last month. No shavings anywhere, everything was intact and clean. IP rebuilt last year, timing advanced per FMIC install. Truck drives like new.

The ATF could use a drain but I wouldn’t think that would cause this issue. It hasn’t overheated since I adjusted the kickdown 1.5 years ago... stumped! Towed it to Landscruiser Specialist north of Austin on Friday...
 
Thanks guys! I’ll keep this updated as events warrant.
 
You could disconnect wire to fuel solenoid and test that circuit and also run a single wire to soleniod to bypass the ignition.
I do believe that she starts well and runs in Park as well an Neutral.
Does she start in Neutral.
I had a 1990 and that is a hydraulic tranny so it should not be your issue.
One other thing is to check your primer. The Primer should get hard and stay hard within a couple pumps, if spongy after that you may be sucking air.
 
You could disconnect wire to fuel solenoid and test that circuit and also run a single wire to soleniod to bypass the ignition.
I do believe that she starts well and runs in Park as well an Neutral.
Does she start in Neutral.
I had a 1990 and that is a hydraulic tranny so it should not be your issue.
One other thing is to check your primer. The Primer should get hard and stay hard within a couple pumps, if spongy after that you may be sucking air.

Yeah, the primer is hard. Replaced fuel lines to new hoses after LRA tank went in. Was just about to replace the injectors when I got home. I wanted to do it before we left but didn't get around to it.

Gotta look at the wiring diagrams and see where the fuel solenoid is. One thing that happened at some point is the brake pressure thing - no idea what it's called, it's the black cylinder on the firewall passenger side - had the sensor brake off. The little female sleeve is intact but the male attachment is snapped off but it's been like that all summer and hasn't caused any problems.

The A442F hydro has been smooth sailing so far but the fluid was pretty cooked smelling. The morning after it broke down. This is stumping me!
 
Fuel Solenoid is on the backside of the injection pump at the top as seen is this thread: Source for 1hdt fuel cutoff solenoid

Testing of the power to the solenoid as mentioned above would help eliminate or point direction.

I've been running Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic ATF in my 80. Your local WM should have it. Cheap enough to get you home and switched back to your fluid of choice.

hth's
gb
 
but just now the truck is stalling when I put it in drive, reverse, or anything other than neutral.


Would it keep going if you were on a hill when you engaged the transmission?
 
Would it keep going if you were on a hill when you engaged the transmission?

I don't think so, because we came off the freeway on an exit ramp that was on a hill and it stalled as we were slowing down.
 
If the primer is hard then I would look at the solenoid. It should click!
Diesel needs air and fuel.
If you don't want to mess with the solenoid crack an injector/s, you need to see clear fuel.
 
Is there anything else in the circuit that can turn off the fuel cut solenoid I was under the opinion only the ignition could turn it on/off.
The solenoid should be checked for loose wires on top.

Most problems with engines cutting out are from air in the injectors. You could add a section of clear tube like this.
 
I would be looking at the torque converter lock up. Sounds like its stuck on.

That's what Georg at Cruiser Bros thought too but I used the TC to get the RPMs higher when coming to a stop. It's still working a-ok.
 
If the primer is hard then I would look at the solenoid. It should click!
Diesel needs air and fuel.
If you don't want to mess with the solenoid crack an injector/s, you need to see clear fuel.

Thanks for that. I sent the shop the info in this thread. Finger's crossed.
 
Looks like I removed the ACSD too late... shavings buggered up the solenoid. Pump is toast...
 
You have the solenoid out? Any pics?
 
No pics, a shop is doing the work. I’ll inspect when I head up there in a day or two.
 
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Careful here!
A great shop can change only the parts you absolutely require.
Have them clean the screen at solenoid, back flush the pump and test.
When I screwed mine it only required an $80.00 part. Plus I had to drive 600km at high rpm to make it home without stalling.
 

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