Sorry another rear heater delete question 4.2 96 1HD-FT

zachbing85

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I know there are many threads on deletion of the rear heater hoses but from the write ups I have read and looking at my rig (96 1HD-FT) I am left with some questions. I will provide some pictures of my set up.
B999DC93-EBED-4702-AE97-91CAB7EB5E6C.jpeg
I’m the second picture I show where the small drip is coming from (green drip) seems the placement behind the coolant line caused A crack in a hose that connects from a t fitting. This house then travels over my head and into a metallic hose circled in red . (Third pic)
01C35212-99D2-4514-B524-E9004683686E.jpeg
Can this hose be completely removed/deleted and a cover placed over the red circled hose housing (if so what kind of plug fits the housing
BD1820D0-2515-4CC9-A8F8-6A4F07004D15.jpeg
. Next question, am I correct that the hose circled in blue is to be connected directly to the fire wall fitting once the T is removed. (Also I picture you can see where the previous owner looks to have discovered the old heater hose and just left it hanging)
3AB51C2B-E728-40F6-8294-613FC269E079.jpeg
Any advice or part links are appreciated and thank y’all from Japan
 

TurboDennis

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You absolutely dont need that hose. Get rid of that hose, as well as both T's at the inlet and outlet of the heater core.
 

zachbing85

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You absolutely dont need that hose. Get rid of that hose, as well as both T's at the inlet and outlet of the heater core.
That was the exact plan I had… what is the cap or plug that I need to cap the line the useless cord goes into … do you have an example or name so I can look one up to buy
 

zachbing85

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I know there are many threads on deletion of the rear heater hoses but from the write ups I have read and looking at my rig (96 1HD-FT) I am left with some questions. I will provide some pictures of my set up. View attachment 3156807I’m the second picture I show where the small drip is coming from (green drip) seems the placement behind the coolant line caused A crack in a hose that connects from a t fitting. This house then travels over my head and into a metallic hose circled in red . (Third pic)View attachment 3156805Can this hose be completely removed/deleted and a cover placed over the red circled hose housing (if so what kind of plug fits the housingView attachment 3156808. Next question, am I correct that the hose circled in blue is to be connected directly to the fire wall fitting once the T is removed. (Also I picture you can see where the previous owner looks to have discovered the old heater hose and just left it hanging)View attachment 3156806 Any advice or part links are appreciated and thank y’all from Japan
Is this the part type I need to “cap” the hose
D03CBEED-E490-45A1-B863-728656DEDB0D.png
 
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heater delete 1.jpg


This is from when I did mine and I have a gasser but might give you an idea.

heater delete 2.jpg
 

TurboDennis

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There is a better way - there is an OEM rubber, 1-piece hose that goes between the heater valve outlet and the firewall heater core inlet. - 87245-60420

On the heater core outlet side, just take the hose marked with a blue arrow on your last picture, disconnect it from the T (circled blue in same picture), and connect it straight to the heater core outlet (it's long enough to reach without any issues).

Use OEM spring clamps for all the connections. DONT use those worm clamps that you have on there now.
 

zachbing85

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There is a better way - there is an OEM rubber, 1-piece hose that goes between the heater valve outlet and the firewall heater core inlet. - 87245-60420

On the heater core outlet side, just take the hose marked with a blue arrow on your last picture, disconnect it from the T (circled blue in same picture), and connect it straight to the heater core outlet (it's long enough to reach without any issues).

Use OEM spring clamps for all the connections. DONT use those worm clamps that you have on there now.
That seems easy enough but I’m still left with the issue of caping off the inlet that the hose in the first picture goes into. Any suggestions? The company that sold the one piece hose is out of stock
 

ToyotaMatt

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That seems easy enough but I’m still left with the issue of caping off the inlet that the hose in the first picture goes into. Any suggestions? The company that sold the one piece hose is out of stock


that's Eazy Peezy ......

Toyota Genuine Parts Life-Time Service Parts :

- this is the 16mm ID Multi-Layer EPDM Rubber

- There Truly a life-time service part

- they DO require a Clamp of course , a Double Wire OEM type is supplied , if you prefer a constant spring tension type , PLEASE PLEASE add that to the NOTES section of the check out notes , i will see it there and simply substitute it for you , no problem ...........

- also now carry the next size smaller 13mm TOYOTA OEM Service and delete cap , same muti-layer construction






1667377769723.png


1667377802005.png
 

zachbing85

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that's Eazy Peezy ......

Toyota Genuine Parts Life-Time Service Parts :

- this is the 16mm ID Multi-Layer EPDM Rubber

- There Truly a life-time service part

- they DO require a Clamp of course , a Double Wire OEM type is supplied , if you prefer a constant spring tension type , PLEASE PLEASE add that to the NOTES section of the check out notes , i will see it there and simply substitute it for you , no problem ...........

- also now carry the next size smaller 13mm TOYOTA OEM Service and delete cap , same muti-layer construction






View attachment 3156950

View attachment 3156951
Thank you so much!! Do you think the double clamp will be sufficient? If so I may order 2 16mm and 2 13mm to just have on hand! Once I see your response I will place a order
 

ToyotaMatt

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Thank you so much!! Do you think the double clamp will be sufficient? If so I may order 2 16mm and 2 13mm to just have on hand! Once I see your response I will place a order


- personally ...........

i live by absolutes and in a black and white world so to speak when it comes to my land cruiser parts :

- if the double wire clamp is tight , its tight , double wires mean to me 2 lines of defense ........


- i see above , some folks prefer the spring tension type ?


- i have NEVER had a seep or leak using a double wire oem clamp in my entire life ,

- however

- both my personal family fleet , 2002 taco pre runner 3.4 5VZ-FE and my SUPER HILUX 2005 4.7 have all spring tension clamps , both have had minor seeps at the upper rad hose both ends and also water control valves , both have a plastic water valve , i replaced with double wire clamps and zero seeps since


that's my personal experience


- i know the TECH and facts on why Toyota switched up from the double wire to spring tension in mid 1990's


- simple rust / corrosion issues on the double wire threaded bolt and female threads , i have a TSB on it from when i worked as a service TECH and team leader back in the day at the dealership level .........


- the rubber delete service caps by default come with a double wire type clamp

IF you desire a swap , PLEASE PLEASE make NOTES clear ones in thr NOTES section , i WILL be happy to ship either style if you request the spring tension


- NOW ,,,,,,,,

here is the interesting part of the morning :

- i figure this is a good time to make those aware that are not ?


- i offer complex all METRIC OEM same in kind type clamps kits TRAIL service or restore and repair , there compact cases and clearly lable'd too

- GOLD Zinc in double wire

- and

GOLD zinc and Silver ZINC in spring Tension


wide variety if sizes including ALL heater , and oil cooler hoses sizes too


thanks
for your support
matt









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1667391491062.png

1667391514397.png
 

TurboDennis

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That seems easy enough but I’m still left with the issue of caping off the inlet that the hose in the first picture goes into. Any suggestions? The company that sold the one piece hose is out of stock
There is nothing to cap off if you do it like i said. Both metal T's with connections for the rear heater lines (the ones you want to cap off) should be removed entirely.
 
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I own an HDJ81 with a 1HD-FT. What is the purpose of the rear heater delete? TIA
Some people want less coolant lines and less connections, others have corroded/bad hard lines in the rear, maybe rear heater core, and don’t care to replace them. I’m in the latter group, but less lines/connections is a bonus, and I never use my rear heater anyway.
 

zachbing85

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There is nothing to cap off if you do it like i said. Both metal T's with connections for the rear heater lines (the ones you want to cap off) should be removed entirely.
sorry for the late reply all my parts are coming in and I re read your instrucionts and now see exactly what you were saying. Part is ordered (hose was hard as hell to find in stock) and I will remove Ts and do this fix once the hose comes in!! cheers zach
 
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I own an HDJ81 with a 1HD-FT. What is the purpose of the rear heater delete? TIA
The coolant lines to the rear heater run above the exhaust, the hard lines can rust out and the rubber connections can degrade. You can't even see the lines without dropping the exhaust so even checking on the lines is a PIA. The rear heater delete disconnects the rear heater lines from the rest of the cooling system so you don't lose all of your coolant if the rear heater lines fail.

Applicable to all 80's with rear heat, not exclusive to the 1HD-FT.
 

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