some quick advice is much appreciated crew

[COLandCrusher]

Hey everyone, Happy Holidays!!
So I wanted to take Cams 2000 Lexus LX470 in for some general maintenance and address some issues we were having. If you all remember I had to replace my '98 cruiser because Cam (my 17 yr old son) totaled it, and so we purchased this '00 LX470 that the PO did the conversion of the suspension to non Hydraulic. We put on the big 33 inch Dura trac MT s and its been very dependable. It does however pull a bit to the right when braking, so this was something I was having addressed today. The shop said that my steering rack was loose. This was the reason for the pull and general feeling of the truck not tracking straight. So he recommended that a shop replace the bushings for the rack. I have to say the steering rack and pinion is just not something I am familiar with so I wanted to hear some thoughts about this.

The other item that I have not been able to remedy is the softness of the suspension. The 98 LC was relatively stiff - still very comfortable but still a bit stiff. So we are wondering what can we do to stiffen that suspension? I have the torsion bars fully indexed. The front right still rubs the fender on some turns. It feels like it bounces down a bit maybe on it. I was wondering if thicker torsion bars will remedy any of this. Stiffer shocks? I just don't know what to do, maybe the coil springs in the back are too small? Advise please.

 

[klax18]

Stock LX torsion bars have a much lower spring rate than LC bars and aren’t designed to work without the hydraulic shocks. LX bars probably should have been replaced when the hydraulics were removed. Try to ID your shocks and post and someone here can advise on matching LC bars.

 

[2001LC]

I agree with @klax18 on torsion bar. Also the rear stabilizer bar & bushings along with coil springs are different between AHC & none AHC systems. First is going to be Identifying what you've got. Also keep in mind; when changing a rig from stock configuration issues arise, as it can put strain on older components.

What shop said rack loose? Steering wheel lagging behind after a turn and wondering side to side on HWY, indicates rack mounting bushings. Did they say polys can be fitted in?

Typically pulling while braking is due to not turning or replacing rotors when replacing pads, or the reverse. Not properly setting new pads to rotor can also have adverse effects.

Pulling during acceleration may indicate worn out ball joints, which can show in braking also.

Swaying druing HWY on ramp or mountain curves indicates stabilizer system issue.

Excessive loose wheel bearing can also come into play.

How are your TRE?

 

[COLandCrusher]

thanks guys. The truck is on it's way to a Local 4WD shop today to get a 2nd opinion on loose rack. But the poly bushings seems a good way to go. The shop showed me one of the steering rack bushing that was pretty destroyed, and they said they found it sitting in the skid plate! I'll talk to the 4WD shop about torsion bars, and shocks/springs,ball joints, Stabilizer system. As always I'll post the findings.

 

[COLandCrusher]

The shops findings: Need NEW Rack -n- Pinion, New brake line passenger side front, Brake fluid flush, Alignment. $1,650- Should be ready Friday. I will let you all know how much better it drives. Still no advice on Torsion bars yet. Ball joints are just out of tolerance, but decided to not worry about that for now, also wheel bearings need repacked/replaced, they wanted $5-600 (4 hours labor) for the wheel bearings, so I decided we can do it ourselves in the spring. Good call 2001LC!

 

[TXLX100]

If at all possible, I'd stick with OEM style rack bushings. I had rack bushings done and had to go with a poly kit because Toyota doesn't sell a full OE bushings kit. The reason I don't like poly is due to the proximity of one of the mounts near the oil filter when it's drained. If oil is left on poly, it will degrade rather quickly in my experience.