some questions regarding flushing radiator

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by LoneRanger, Jul 23, 2005.

  1. LoneRanger

    LoneRanger

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    I flushed my radiator today (internally, not down the toilet). Perhaps someone would care to assist with some follow-up questions. First time ever on this procedure.

    1) How long is it supposed to take for all the old coolant to leave the system? Basically, I just kept running water through, refilling and letting it drain until the water looked more or less clear--initially with the engine off, then with it running (fingers out of the way, it gets hot). The whole process took about 30 minutes.

    2) The initial impulse to do this came from the desire to replace the old hoses. Upon finishing I noticed a trickle of a leak coming from the recently tightened hose clamp which them seemed to dissapear again after driving for 30 mins or so. I will try to tighten it some. Is it a good idea to thoroughly clean all the deposits off the fittings before installing new hose?

    3) Is there an easier way to get to the hose coming off the water pump? I ended up removing the alternator to get to it.
     
  2. hj60

    hj60

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    Did you have the heater valve open? Did you use a chemical flush kit, or just the hose? Were you filling the rad? Or running water through the block?

    Replace the hose. Tightening the clamp may make the leak worse. Replace em with band style hoseclamps. And yes, always thoroughly clean anything prior to reassembly. Otherwise you're just asking to have to tear it back down to chase a leak.

    You found what is probably the easiest way to do this.
     
  3. LoneRanger

    LoneRanger

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    THanks for the reply.

     
  4. lovetoski

    lovetoski SILVER Star

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  5. LoneRanger

    LoneRanger

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    cool. grazie.

    bh
     
  6. Live to Ski

    Live to Ski

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    Also, don't forget to "burp" the motor as air pockets may be trapped in areas of the system.
     
  7. gillti

    gillti

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    Not to hijack, but I've got a question about burping. do you really have to crank on the bumper (i.E. jump up and down) to get all the bubbles out? How does the cruiser act when you don't have them all out. I replaced all the coolant and put in a new t-stat. Things are better than they were, but not perfect yet. I really don't want to move on to a new water pump. The radiator is only about a year old, replaced with the new engine. When I bought the cruiser I finally realized there was basically no coolant in it at all. Remedied that, but still have the needle creeping up higher than I would like.

    thanks in advance for any help.
     
  8. LoneRanger

    LoneRanger

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    no hijacking percieved. that was my next question too.
     
  9. Cantinero

    Cantinero Yo soy un pirata!

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    Just went through this nightmare last week of changing the water pump on my 62. As it was suggested by ming89fj62 to me:

    Burping the coolant system is easy. W/ the engine cold open the radiator cap, position the truck so that the radiator is higher than the back end (front end on ramps or even a curb should do), start the enging and get the coolant up to temp so that the thermostat opens, rev the engine and watch for the coolant level to drop in the top of the radiator - you'll probably get a "burp" as the air works it way out of the radiator. Put the cap back on - make sure you have coolant in the resevior and you're done.

    I followed his suggestions and not a problem since. The temp gauge hits the first mark and not higher and I'm in PHX, AZ.
     
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