** SOLVED with details ** How to remove parking brake drum from a 1966 frame with a 2F motor and 4 speed transmission (cross member in the way) (1 Viewer)

[Wadesters]

My parking brake is not working and I don't think it is cable related (not sure). I do have the cable adjusted out. I have drained transfer case, drive shaft is off, castle nut is off. The drum slide backs but will not clear the cross member to remove. I only lack 1/2" to be able to slide the drum off. Is the easiest way to obtain a little clearance to remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine mount? Will that let it drop down enough to slide off the parking brake drum so I can see what is going on and change the seal and shoes? Thanks...

 

[B y r o n]

Let the back of the transfer case drop down a couple of inches and the drum should clear the crossmember.

 

[Splangy]

Unbolt the front engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine a little bit. It’ll tilt the transfer down in the back.

 

[Wadesters]

Thanks! What about the rear engine mounts? Do they have to be loosened or removed as well, or just the front?

 

[Redgrrr]

From a maintenance perspective. I’d move the torque tube back in the frame if I was gonna have the cruiser for awhile...

 

[Shark56]

What Splangy said. I have done the exact thing on my 69 with 2f and 4 speed a couple times. Didn't even remove the engine mount bolts, just backed them almost all the way out. You only need to lift the front a half inch or so. Block of wood under front pulley and jack up just a little.

 

[Wadesters]

Front motor mounts loose and jacked up front of motor. Close but not enough back of engine is hitting firewall in the front and not going up anymore.

 

[Wadesters]

Thanks for everyone who responded my issue is resolved!

For others who might run into the same issue here is how I was able to remove my parking brake drum. I removed the front motor mounts and jacked up the front of the engine. It went up probably a 1 1/2 - 2 inches. At that point the back of my 2f was hitting the firewall and the fan was also flexing on the shroud. It did not give me enough space to remove the parking brake drum.
I re-attached the front motor mounts and used a transmission jack to stabilize the transmission. I removed the right rear motor mount bolt. Then I slightly jacked up the transmission until I could remove the rubber motor mount. Then I let the jack down slowly. The transmission came down easily just enough and the parking brake drum slid off.

(I did not have a parking brake and after a frame off restoration I found the parking brake cable had come out of the slot that pulls on the shoes. Now I have a parking brake).

Chris..

 

[lelandEOD]

Or you could just make your crossmember QD!

 

[Mrtube00]

FWIW and if it will help others - I ended up needing a little more clearance after removing the right rear engine mount bolt and bushings and lowering the transmission/transfer case as per Wadesters method. I used a C-Clamp at the engine mount brackets on the frame and engine and it brought the transfer case down with plenty of room to remove the parking brake drum and clear the original crossmember. This is on my stock 1964 FJ40. I now have an operational parking brake! Thanks all for the instructions and suggestions.