(solved) -Need some urgent electric help

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I'm going to cross post this to the diesel forum.

Driving down the road I lost the dash power.
It came back. And then gone again.

Basically no gauges. No blinkers. No windows. No run roof. No climate control

I can turn on the head lights. When the doors open the door open light is on.

It's a diesel so it kept running. I pulled over to see if I could find the issue because it's hot as f***. Looking at fuses I pulled the ignition fuse and it died. Stupid.

It won't start. So I'm stranded. I have a trailer. But it's a few hours out so I figured I'd see if I can remedy it now.

All fuses are good. When I turn the key in get nothing. No clicks. I have a jump pack. Same story.

It's like I lost power leading to my column.
 
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Disregard. This was for a gasser. Different fusible link. Totally irrelevant

I found this post


Looking at fusible link issues
The main doesn't seem to be the issue because I have: radio, headlights, tails.

I don't think I have stop lights because stepping on the brake doesn't allow me to shift from park. I have to use my red button. I also don't have ac/heat


Am1: i have horn, hazards and dome. I don't have blinkers or wipers

Am2: the red light for the volt meter comes on with key on. But the gauges don't work.


Demonic: a ground could be, if a certain system has an isolated ground, but without a volt meter I'm kind of blind there.
 
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Understood. I just went through a weird electrical issue where i lost door locks, HVAC, brake lights/shift lock, parking lights. Ended up being corroded alternator wiring. But yeah, not much you can do in the way of shorts/ground issues without an EWD and multimeter.
 

clx16

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Ok so this might be a horrible idea.... But you have power at the battery... and you dont' have power to the dash. but you have a jumper pack... can you introduce power using the jumper pack to the dash somewhere on the circuit just to see if it will let you start it again?
 
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Understood. I just went through a weird electrical issue where i lost door locks, HVAC, brake lights/shift lock, parking lights. Ended up being corroded alternator wiring. But yeah, not much you can do in the way of shorts/ground issues without an EWD and multimeter.


Ya I know. I'm waiting on a buddy now and just trying to see if I can get it to crank. I found a post on running 12v to the E terminal on the starter relay but that got me nothing.

Based on a partially functional electrical system I'm confident in have a bad fusible link. But can't test them here.
 
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Ok so this might be a horrible idea.... But you have power at the battery... and you dont' have power to the dash. but you have a jumper pack... can you introduce power using the jumper pack to the dash somewhere on the circuit just to see if it will let you start it again?

I'd rather not even try.

I am more confident that it's a connection. Either loose, unplugged or failed fusible link.

I say this because I lost power to the dash twice for a few seconds. Each time it would return. The final time it failed, I waited a while and it didn't come back. I was planning to troubleshoot without shutting it off as I know the diesel will run without power.

So whatever the cause is was either wiggling loose or slowly breaking.
 

thatcabledude

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Auto.

I learned today that my power steering requires a speed sensor input to function. This explains why it got stiff.
Ok. I was going to suggest popping the clutch to drive it home.

Hmmm.
I have not heard of that on an 80.
 
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Ok. I was going to suggest popping the clutch to drive it home.

Hmmm.
I have not heard of that on an 80.


Well based on this, FL am is bad.
Obviously I'll use my dmm when I get home to verify.

But everything getting power from FL main is good.

Everything getting power from FL am is dead

Screenshot_20220807-173610_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 

ozarkmud

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With the ignition fuse back in, can you bypass the starter solenoid and start it with a screwdriver?
 
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With the ignition fuse back in, can you bypass the starter solenoid and start it with a screwdriver?


My rig is 24v bypassing the starter isn't the same. There is a listed method for jumping the relay but I get no joy when trying.
 
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I spent more time looking at the ewd while waiting on a trailer. Not satisfied it was the FL because of where I wasn't getting power.
Infound a thread where a guy said his ignition came disconnected. I found the black connection under the dash and squeezed it. Truck fired right up.

I'm back in the road.
 
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I found the black connection under the dash and squeezed it. Truck fired right up.
I should have thought of that, since I had the same experience on a Jeep. Dash lights cutting out momentarily, then completely.

Make sure to unplug it and inspect the terminals. Having it on the verge of coming unplugged may have cause excess heat.
 
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I should have thought of that, since I had the same experience on a Jeep. Dash lights cutting out momentarily, then completely.

Make sure to unplug it and inspect the terminals. Having it on the verge of coming unplugged may have cause excess heat.
I plan too along with inspecting the retention method.
 
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I thought there is a screw on the back side holding the ignition switch to the cylinder housing. I'm on mobile but the fsm should show this
 
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I thought there is a screw on the back side holding the ignition switch to the cylinder housing. I'm on mobile but the fsm should show this

Not there.

The black connector is farther down the line. I'll snap a picture later.
 

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