*Solved* Fan Clutch Bracket Replacement - DIY Assistance Requested (1 Viewer)

[ExpeditionMan]

All,

I am in the middle of a water pump job on my 2013 LX570 and am working on all the "while you are there" parts. Currently I am attempting to replace the fan clutch pulley bracket (see images). However, the hard lines are obscuring a 12mm bolt and the single 14mm is really on there. For reference, I've disconnected all of the mounting bolts for the hard lines (although some hoses are still connected) and I hit the 14mm bolt with my 1/2" stubby impact wrench. No movement at all... Has anyone replaced this component successfully? Part number is 163800S010 if you want to reference a diagram.

 

[turbo8]

I replaced mine a couple years ago. I don't recall having any difficulties.

 

[kcjaz]

I’ve replaced the fan bracket and did have some trouble getting to one of the bolts by the compressor that holds the hard lines in place. I ultimately removed the compressor pulley for access.

Your issue is a stuck bolt? Not getting access?

See post 32 in my thread on my “while you are in there “ journey.

150K mile PM

So I'm at 150K miles on my 2013 200. I'm the second owner and bought it in 2015 with about 40K miles. I've done all of the recommended maintenance stuff and before I owned it, it was dealer maintained but am wondering if it would be worth it to replace the water pump, hoses and belts just to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I’ve replaced the fan bracket and did have some trouble getting to one of the bolts by the compressor that holds the hard lines in place. I ultimately removed the compressor pulley for access.

Your issue is a stuck bolt? Not getting access?

See post 32 in my thread on my “while you are in there “ journey.

150K mile PM

So I'm at 150K miles on my 2013 200. I'm the second owner and bought it in 2015 with about 40K miles. I've done all of the recommended maintenance stuff and before I owned it, it was dealer maintained but am wondering if it would be worth it to replace the water pump, hoses and belts just to...

forum.ih8mud.com

The initial thread and the one it linked to helped. I guess I'm stuck removing the A/C condenser to get to those hard lines... whoever packaged that deserves a lashing. The 14mm bolt on the fan bracket seems stuck. If my stubby cant get it off I worry about twisting the bolt head off with a breaker bar... the truck has always been in the south so not sure why it would be so tight.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I replaced mine a couple years ago. I don't recall having any difficulties.

Coolant lines which run to the a/c compressor are in the way. I'm going to unbolt it or undo hoses tomorrow.

The real problem is that 14mm bolt which took over 200 ft lbs and still didnt budge.

*Edit* penetrating fluid and breaker bar did the trick

 

[CharlieS]

Mine came loose with a regular combination wrench/spanner.

 

[bloc]

Sure you don’t mean compressor vs condenser?

I found it less risky to remove the four bolts holding the compressor to the block than mess with the clutch pulley and possible shimming/interference issues. This allowed room to get the sideways 10mm bolt that is very tight in there against the pulley.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

Sure you don’t mean compressor vs condenser?

I found it less risky to remove the four bolts holding the compressor to the block than mess with the clutch pulley and possible shimming/interference issues. This allowed room to get the sideways 10mm bolt that is very tight in there against the pulley.

You're 100% correct, I meant compressor. Corrected above. I will try this approach today.

 

[kcjaz]

I found it less risky to remove the four bolts holding the compressor to the block than mess with the clutch pulley and possible shimming/interference issues. This allowed room to get the sideways 10mm bolt that is very tight in there against the pulley.

Yes, there is the risk of loosing the little spacer washers which will happen if you don’t know they are there. There may only be one. The pulley has to go back the exact way it was in terms of position on the shaft or the mag clutch won’t work.

After I did it, my AC didn’t work and I immediately assumed it was the clutch and that I fouled something up and spend considerable time testing the clutch and trouble shooting only to find out I had a pin hole leak in the condenser not related to the work I had done. If your careful, it’s not hard taking the pulley off and replacing it. I considered @bloc method but the access seemed harder to me. Either method works. Pick the one that seems easier to you.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

So I found a way to do this without moving the a/c compressor or compressor pulley. Basically I disconnected any mounting bracket bolts tied to the hard lines running to the oil cooler from the thermostat housing. Then I disconnected the two hoses running from the thermostat housing to the two hard lines. This combination gave me enough room to swivel the hardlines out enough to get a box end 12mm wrench on the lowest bolt. The 14mm ended up being removed after being soaked with penetrating fluid overnight and a breaker bar.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

Yes, there is the risk of loosing the little spacer washers which will happen if you don’t know they are there. There may only be one. The pulley has to go back the exact way it was in terms of position on the shaft or the mag clutch won’t work.

After I did it, my AC didn’t work and I immediately assumed it was the clutch and that I fouled something up and spend considerable time testing the clutch and trouble shooting only to find out I had a pin hole leak in the condenser not related to the work I had done. If your careful, it’s not hard taking the pulley off and replacing it. I considered @bloc method but the access seemed harder to me. Either method works. Pick the one that seems easier to you.

Do either of you have a screenshot from the FSM showing torque values for the bracket pulley? Still working on acquiring it myself.

@bloc same question!

 

[bloc]

Do either of you have a screenshot from the FSM showing torque values for the bracket pulley? Still working on acquiring it myself.

@bloc same question!

I don’t have that ability at the moment but did list out all the relevant torque values for the fan bracket in the past. Maybe try searching for appropriate key words with my username
Edit: found it.

Fan support bracket & bearing - with high mileage check yours

2013 3UR-FE Landcruiser, just approaching 150k miles. I had a belt squeal on cold start at about 120k and installed a new OEM serp belt, which resolved the issue. At the time I checked the condition of the idler and tensioner pullies, as well as the fan support bearing (our fan doesn't run on...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I don’t have that ability at the moment but did list out all the relevant torque values for the fan bracket in the past. Maybe try searching for appropriate key words with my username
Edit: found it.

Fan support bracket & bearing - with high mileage check yours

2013 3UR-FE Landcruiser, just approaching 150k miles. I had a belt squeal on cold start at about 120k and installed a new OEM serp belt, which resolved the issue. At the time I checked the condition of the idler and tensioner pullies, as well as the fan support bearing (our fan doesn't run on...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks I'll search there and appreciate the tip.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I don’t have that ability at the moment but did list out all the relevant torque values for the fan bracket in the past. Maybe try searching for appropriate key words with my username
Edit: found it.

Fan support bracket & bearing - with high mileage check yours

2013 3UR-FE Landcruiser, just approaching 150k miles. I had a belt squeal on cold start at about 120k and installed a new OEM serp belt, which resolved the issue. At the time I checked the condition of the idler and tensioner pullies, as well as the fan support bearing (our fan doesn't run on...

forum.ih8mud.com

The four fan nuts are 15lbft
For the fan bearing bracket itself, the three M8 bolts go to 17, the one bigger (I think M10) goes to 35.

So I did some looking on the FSM myself and can confirm the 17 ft*lbf and 35 ft*lbf. These images are from the general section of the FSM. The 15 ft*lbf is definitely in regard to the fan clutch to fluid couple bracket not the bracket to the block.

 

[doublehundy]

So I found a way to do this without moving the a/c compressor or compressor pulley. Basically I disconnected any mounting bracket bolts tied to the hard lines running to the oil cooler from the thermostat housing. Then I disconnected the two hoses running from the thermostat housing to the two hard lines. This combination gave me enough room to swivel the hardlines out enough to get a box end 12mm wrench on the lowest bolt. The 14mm ended up being removed after being soaked with penetrating fluid overnight and a breaker bar.

View attachment 2865590

*EDIT* - I lassoed a bit of dental floss around the bolt to keep if from falling, got it out no problem. Also used some needle nose pliers for the last few turns to keep a grip on it.


Any special combo of tools to get at the lower hardline bracket bolt by the compressor pulley? I've been at it gingerly with a box wrench, hoping the bolt doesn't fall down in between oil filter interface and compressor. Is it the same length as the other two above it? Any tips for this one would be helpful. Hoping to avoid unbolting the compressor....

 

[grinchy]

I loosened but did not fully remove the bottom right headline bolt. I couldn’t see how I would ever get it back in if I took it out. That got enough movement in the hardline to complete the work on the fan bracket.

 

[doublehundy]

I loosened but did not fully remove the bottom right headline bolt. I couldn’t see how I would ever get it back in if I took it out. That got enough movement in the hardline to complete the work on the fan bracket.

Wellllllllllllllllllll...........lemme tell ya a story about that....

I did take it all the way out, which made for plenty of access to the fan bracket bolts once the hardline was out of the way, easy swap!

However, fishing that sucker back in there took me an hour. Snuck it back in there with a smaller pair of needle nose pliers than before (floss lasso still in tact), and just had to repeat the process of lining it up and twisting enough for a thread to bite. PHEW... 7/10 not recommended. But better for me than to have had to unbolt the compressor.