Solar Wire Pass-Thru -Scanstrut Cable Gland (1 Viewer)

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I've a question - about to do this for my HAM antenna cable - how did you "Layer" the parts?

I seem to get some moisture down the back of that L part occasionally - the air vent below is well sealed - but I'm curious of how it all got sandwiched in - is the gasket against the metal or the plastic L surface?

The included gasket is sandwiched between Scanstrut base and the external plastic surface of the louver. There IS a slight gap between the louver plastic and the sheet metal of the body. I fabricated a gasket (out of a stiff rubber body filler squeegee) that filled that 1/8" gap. I'm sure many rubber sheet products could be used, but that was what I had available.

So the order of the sandwich is; Scanstrut cover - Scanstrut base - Scanstrut gasket - plastic louver - 1/8" fabricated gasket - body sheet metal. The four sheet metal screws hold it all together. No leaks.

HTH.
 
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Just got my poly panel installed and jumped on MUD to search for this exact information. Of course some of the usual suspects already provided the exact info I needed in this thread so thank you all above!

Any opinions on the use of LiFe PO4 batteries versus AGM when permanently kept inside the vehicle? Seems opinions differ on whether heat inside is okay for the LiFe batteries.

Thanks all again esp @mingles.

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Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck.

DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk

All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If I ever decide to remove it, I can put a new vent cover on and there is no visible evidence that it was ever there. I wanted something that can hold up to an automatic car wash and I think this will do it (I’ve run my rack mounted solar panel through the car wash weekly for several years with no issues).

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Love this. Do you have a straight-on shot, so we can see the angle of the dangle, so to speak?
 
Love this. Do you have a straight-on shot, so we can see the angle of the dangle, so to speak?
This what you want?

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When I was using my 80 between on and off road I removed the rack completely. Still fully loaded with RTT, spare wheel, 40 litres of fuel, sand ladders and a Hi lift jack, and of course one of the two solar panels I take when off road. I used to use winches to lift the whole lot off in one go leaving it suspended from the garage roof, since moving and health issues I have yet to install another set of winches. Either way I needed to have a way of plugging and unplugging the solar into the car over and over. I drilled a small hole in the roof and used a waterproof plug connector. I also drilled a small hole and fitted a connector that allowed the CB ariel to be disconnected, I have a changeover switch that allows me to re attach the areil to the rear of the car.

When the solar is unplugged, a waterproof cap simply pushes into the empty socket. The vacant CB connection had a screw on cap to keep out moisture as well.

Recently running wires for the dash cam and so forth, with the headlining pulled away there are no apparent leaks.

Regards

Dave.
 
Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck.

DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk

All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If I ever decide to remove it, I can put a new vent cover on and there is no visible evidence that it was ever there. I wanted something that can hold up to an automatic car wash and I think this will do it (I’ve run my rack mounted solar panel through the car wash weekly for several years with no issues).

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So clean!
I've got the same scanstrut and wanted to route the wires through the vent itself. But the gap between the plastic cover and the sheet metal is very small.
I see you opted for sandwiching with the sheet metal, which looks very sturdy!
One question: did you use self taping screws to mount the gland? Because the back side of the sheet metal is covered up, so a nut and a bolt is out of the question.

Thanks!
 
So clean!
I've got the same scanstrut and wanted to route the wires through the vent itself. But the gap between the plastic cover and the sheet metal is very small.
I see you opted for sandwiching with the sheet metal, which looks very sturdy!
One question: did you use self taping screws to mount the gland? Because the back side of the sheet metal is covered up, so a nut and a bolt is out of the question.

Thanks!
Thanks for inspiration! Just finished installing. Went with the screw-route en sandwiched it all together.

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