SOA or 4" Springs?

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I want to do SOA but dont have the tools to do it myself nor do I have the $$ to have some one do it for me? Please give me the pros and cons of the two. Which do you prefer?
 
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I am doing a SOA right now, I did the same thing you are going through with to go 4" lift or SOA.
 

woody

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lol...lots of searches.

I did 4" lift, ran it two years, and ended up SOA. Ended up losing $$ on the lift and on the cute tires that a 4" lift allows.

SOA will run $500 to $3000. Depends on how much you do, your fab skills, and shortcuts you are willing to accept. IMO, done right with your own labor, $1200-1500 or so. Add in $$ for wheels/tires when done, another $1k easy.
 
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current bill for my SOA, is $16 for the correct width spring perches bent to my specs. I have to buy at least one rear rubber line, and steering. driveshafts are ok, as i have 4 sets to choose from all different lengths. NO CVs, NO cut and turn, NO shackle reversal, all over rated. I will give total cost in about three days when i finally get a chance to finish it. TIRES will be the same ones off the cruiser when it had a two inch add a leaf, rode like crap.
 

TJDIV

UP of MI.
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HI C is right. If you've got the skills, you won't have the bills.
I paid somebody $2000 for a K5 Blazer and they put the axles under my 40 for me. Then I had a Blazer without axles. Made a good flower planter.

(needed the engine and tranny for my wagon be-atch, donated the blazer to underwater reef research...)
 
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one week til i start mine soa im just waiting for a set of new shackles to get here for me it was cheaper to do a soa then buying a 4 inch lift if your worried about money get two pairs of spring perches from summit,bushings if ya need them,and call w about the steering, your lookin at about 200 smackers...ill post somthing when im done, oh dont forget to measure to see if youll make it out of the garage, it looks like ill make it by 1 inch
 
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[quote author=woody link=board=1;threadid=6806;start=msg55863#msg55863 date=1067298717]
lol...lots of searches.
I did 4" lift, ran it two years, and ended up SOA. Ended up losing $$ on the lift and on the cute tires that a 4" lift allows.
[/quote]
:flipoff2:
I like my cute tires.
:flipoff2:
 
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Ok, I'm also jumping on the bandwagon and considering a SOA. Question is, is cut and turn on the knuckles really necessary or not. I've heard opinions from both camps and am still really not sure what's right. Anybody want to support their opinion?
 
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im not gonna cut and turn ill let ya know how it handles after its done, personaly i think it will handle better because in my situation the bushing are so shot the shackles dont even move. my guess would be anything is better than that...al
 
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My understanding is that the longer wheelbase 60 isn't as affected by the pinion position as the 40 is. Once again not really sure, good luck with your project, take before and after pics.
 
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If you do the poor mans soa definately consider flipping the springs around. That way you get about 7-8 inch longer wheelbase dramatically improving the handling. You will need to lenghen the driveshafts(about $80 each). I would recomend removing the front shock towers completely and use the ford truck front shock mount. Get the longest Rancho 9000's they make and have the shock mounts welded in to fit the shocks.
Here are some pics of mine

http://www.pbase.com/axlechassis/cruisers

I have stock front springs and I had the rear springs re-arched which I'm not real happy with cause they added a leaf making them overely stiff(it rides now like its got old man emu mine duty springs in the back). I might try some fj55 springs next.
 
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There are places that will sell you a housing all ready cut and turned and the perches moved for a SOA. www.extremebends.com is one.
I tried to get away without doing a cut and turn and had to tear it all apart to do it because it wouldn't drive.
 

woody

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if you do a shackle reversal, because of how the pinion rotates during suspension cycling, you will be "required" to cut-turn the housing. If you leave the shackles forward, then it's optional but recommended.

FJ40's only came stock with +1 degrees of caster, and bigger/fatter tires drive better with 3-5+ degrees of caster...tipping the pinion down that much often creates u-joint binds at severe droop.
 
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:cheers:Thanks everyone for all your comments and suggestions. I will have to think hard about which way to go. Currently sua w/ 35'S. At times I get the tires stuffed up in to thew wheel wells. I want to prevent this from happening in the future! Plus the additional articulation would be nice!
 
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Figure out if your going to need break lines first or not!!!!!!!!!!!


i need rear for sure, could use a front also ( could move the mount a bit, but rather have longer then to short. Spent three days and 9 parts stores nobody had in stock, or could get one within 3 days. MOST interchangable hoses with longer lengths were DISCONTINUED. I have 15 part numbers for different hoses from different manufactures, of which 10 are a longer length interchange, and only 4 are still made!!!!!!!!!!! These were for rubber hoses. Also were looking close the $28 to $40 a hose!

Skyjacker makes a 17" front and 23" rear, which the rear is over 3" longer then any rear i could find. I imagine i will end up with these. Should be able to find these for under $85 or so.
 

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