Soa, dual U or Cut and turn? (1 Viewer)

[Satamax]

Hi everybody!

Well, over here in France, everybody i talk about SOA with, says instead of cutting and turning i'd be better off with using a dual U joint, i don't get what they mean! There's already two U joints, one at each end of the driveshafts. Puting one or two more would mean that the y would warp onto themselves no?

Best regards.

Max.

 

[nuclearlemon]

there's one on the front driveshaft already (at the transfer case)..a double cardan joint-it's two ujoints right next to each other (in a poorly defined kinda way). 60's came with them stock.

 

[2badfjs]

i use a 85 or newer mini pick up rear drive shaft,no cardon,cut down and re-tubed.
SOA,no cut&turn, works great even at full extention.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Better off? Hardly, though you may be able to get by with a cardon joint, there is no difinitive way to say it is better in the least bit. There are three main reasons to do a proper Cut and Turn:

1. Increase the caster angle for a better handling on the road
2. Increase pinion angle for less driveshaft binding, vibration, etc
3. Get your pinion up out of the rocks

Sure it can be done without, but why defy the gains for such a small investment?

Hope that helps...

 

[Satamax]

Thanks a lot guys!

Nucleardemon, i get it! 2badfjs, Do you have any pics? One question thought, did you orient the diffs noses towards the Tcase?

Thanks a lot and best regards.

Max.

 

[nuclearlemon]

on a non cv setup, if you turn the pinion up will get unequal angles at the ujoints which will cause vibration and premature failure on the joints...if no cv, you need to have equal angles at each end of the shaft or be doomed to slow ass speeds.

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

What he said^^^^^. If you decide to go double cardan, the pinion flange has to point directly at the tcase output. Pinion ujoint operates at zero degrees. The 2 transfer case end ujoints work in phase with one another minimizing vibration.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

If you are running a CV shaft, you aim the pinion directly at the T/C output flange as such:

However, without a proper cut/turn you caster will be negative resulting in unwanted handling...

I prefer to run the CV style shafts on both axles... get thos pinions out of the rocks

 

[Satamax]

Well, sounds like i have no choice! I want to avoid cut and turn, for one reason, i don't have the gear to do it properly and i can't stop the truck for more than two or three days! as it's my DD! Well, when i finaly find my cable locking axles, i'll try!

Best regards.

Max.

 

[Tinker]

If you're buying complete axles you have the time to do a cut&turn. If only 3rd members, maybe not.

But if you end up with vibration, you WILL find time to do it over.

Ditto Kurt: do it once - go CV.

 

[polarweasel]

Incidentally, I had thought that only pre-1985 (or thereabouts) FJ60s came with double-cardan front driveshafts. I know my 11/83 has one.

Gee, I've got a 9/85 60 in my backyard. Maybe I should look tonight and find out for myself.

 

[VETTE60]

it is my understanding ( and my experience) that if you do a dual cv driveshaft that the pinion flange does not have to poind directly at the transfer case. this allows for greater angles and no vibe . only in the case of a single end cv, which then should be pointed at the case, and the c/v should be on the case flange. i did this on my 40 and got my drivelines (dual cv) from arizona drivelines brand new for $295 each. www.drivelinesolutions.com. done in one week. on this application i did not cut/turn the front, and it ran smoooooothe..... the rear was turned. and no problems. but i would agree that the best way to do it is to cut and turn.