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SOA - Again

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Isotel, Feb 3, 2004.

  1. Isotel

    Isotel

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    ok, i know this is the most talked about subject on here and probably for good reason, but i have read Every thing on SOA's Twice and need a little more advice.. I got my rear axel out tonight and now things are a little more real!

    ok, So i want to have good onroad and offroad, Need to be able to go 70mph without problembs.. SOOOO
    Do i Take out Leafs on my Springs, or do i Add a Leaf, or a combo of both... The other thing is, Do i Flip my Springs front to Rear in order to Gain some Wheelbase?

    i assume that if i flip the rear i will need a lengthend DriveShaft, and i will probably need one lengthend on the front anyway..

    i believe that i will leave my Front axel Stock, (No cut and turn) and Leave the Shackles in the front for now...

    BTW, 76 FJ SBC 35"ers on the way

    I am so dam excited i have started this project :D, i cant get to bed...
     
  2. woody

    woody unhelpful spotter Staff Member Admin

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    IMO, leave all the leaves in there...I actually added one additional to my front packs to raise the ride height slightly.

    Longer wheelbase is nice on and offroad...90" is stock, flip both packs and you'll end up at 97".
     
  3. Isotel

    Isotel

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    thx man.. SO with stock springs, how is the stability onroad, Cornering..
     
  4. woody

    woody unhelpful spotter Staff Member Admin

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    <--trailer queen...tho IMO once you are used to it, it's very managable. Mine is quite soft and does sway a fair amount, but never feels unstable.
     
  5. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    Same here though mine is a DD - it is different but absolutely tolerable. I can do 70 no prob, I just had to get used to it. As for cornering just remember you aren't driving a corvette and you'll be fine.
     
  6. wheelie

    wheelie

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    just another fan of the soa, by all means keep the spring packs together.
    i have no problem on the highway i drive my rig 200 miles to moab every yr
    no prob :cheers:
     
  7. Isotel

    Isotel

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    Cool, thanks guys, just wanted to hear some experences with your guys rigs.. My Buddies are all Jeep dudes so i will probably end up in moab for easter weekend and not cruise moab :( ..

    Update, i got the front and rear axel out and the steering all apart, I guess i need a Balljoint press to get out these steering Balljoints, so i am borowing one tomarow..

    what's the common practice for Brake lines, Add the Front to the rear, and Buy a new rear, to go on the front??

    Thx again, Pictures to come!
     
  8. del3030

    del3030

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    I am not trying to change your plans or anything, but why not the shackle reversal? It seems that you were concerned in your other posts about stability and cornering, and doing the shackle reversal really helps the drivabililty of the cruiser on road. This is an easy add-on mod to the SOA process, and can be homebrew and still turn out very well. Brake lines...I went for the bling and did S/S braided lines from Earls. I think they are great, and reall not very expensive at all. I'm talking like $15.oo for each line, and they are mega tough. Do a google search on Earls Lines and you'll find a ton of online vendors, or any local speed parts shop. Earls is the biggest name in these and are not hard to find. How about steering? Are you doing power steering at this time? How about HY-steer? These will help the on road manners a TON. By eliminating all the moving parts, center arm, all the tie rod ends and worn out bushings, you will gain alot of predictibility. I'll post a pic of my front axle right now tommorrow... cut and turned (very easy by the way, just a little intimidating at first), new hardlines, and S/S lines from Earls (I bypassed the lines on the backing plates), new shock mounts (Home brew) and 1/8 NPT threads on the breather for an extended line. Also, all new seals and bearings, with Mini truck knuckles, and Marlin's HY-Steer (best value for the highest quality parts out there, IMO), and Marlins new stud kit.

    Do it right the first time, and then forget about it. If you really want on road manners to be a priority, and it sounds like you do, re-evaluate your plan and I wish you the best of luck!

    Keith
     
  9. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    Shackle reversal is a personal preference thing. Read the explanation from chenowth in the tech links. Convinced me not to do SR. Keith is right about the highsteer. It really works wonders. Even the crossover steering makes a big difference. Good luck on your project whichever way you decide.
     
  10. willsta2000

    willsta2000

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    I had a shackle reversal for about a year. With any decent articulation, plan on some front driveshaft mods,... that aren't cheap (maybe $400) or run a cheap square driveshaft.
    Personally, I opted to un-reverse my front end... front braking squat sucks when you're coming down steep rock faces. Forward pitching sucks big time.

    Not to mention that I was ALWAYS wary of my front driveline coming apart.
    You can articulate forever with the stock spring arrangement and never pull the shafts apart.

    I have a buddy running one of W's bucket (no shackles) suspensions setups from Over the Hill, and he can't even come close to pulling the shafts apart even with the spring eye 10" from the frame.

    SR is way overrated.
     
  11. Isotel

    Isotel

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    The reason's i havent decided to cut and turn and SR is that i am a college student and dont have my own garage, My Cruiser is taking up somone elces space right now so i am in a Bit of a rush to get it mobile so we can push it out to the street and other projects can be worked on aswell.. I Would like to do one, but probably in the summer when it is WARM... i also will probably be doing the longfeilds and some sort of LSD at that time, and will Rebuild the axel... as for steering i am doing a saginaw 800 with Bent up stock arms.. Gota run to class.. Thx for the advice
     
  12. Isotel

    Isotel

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  13. Isotel

    Isotel

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    welding... R/C heep trying to crawl up the jackstand..
     
  14. Isotel

    Isotel

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    new shackle hangers fror Front axel,,, What pinion angle should i put my front axel at without a cut and turn.. (SR and Spring flop)
     
  15. Isotel

    Isotel

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    rear axel, Hows this pinion angle look??
     
  16. Isotel

    Isotel

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    new bumper and Sprung Proper! BTW i decided to do a SR :cheers:
     
  17. RHINO

    RHINO

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    you have to leave the pinion angle on both axles stock, the front for caster angle, the rear can only go up if you get a CV on your shaft.
    lookin pretty good so far
     
  18. Medusa

    Medusa

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    With a SR you must, IMO, cut/turn the housing/knuckles. With the SR, the pinion will rotate downward when the springs decompress, and you will likely bind the pinion u-joint. If you try to roate the pinion up ANY amount without the cut/turn, you will move into negative caster = bad
     
  19. Isotel

    Isotel

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    ok, i have a Grinder, a drill and some jackstands (the welder is borowed), Realisticly how much time would it take and Money in order for me to cut and turn.. i probably will need to get a rebuild kit.. anything elce??? I did fine on the shackle reversal and everything elce, its just dont want to get in over my head..
     
  20. RHINO

    RHINO

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    ok so you have decided to cut and turn (wise with flipped springs) how much time/money?? well if you have the tools and consider the knuckle rebuild as maint. then its free, time should not be more than 2 hrs for the actual cut and turn.
    on to the first Q! which has changed with the cut and turn, how much to turn the pinion, point it right at the tranfer case with the weight of the rig on the springs.
    again with the rear, unless your gonna get a cv rear shaft you have to leave it stock.
     
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