SOA 60 Double cardon shafts (1 Viewer)

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Anyone in the Lower Mainland have any 60 Series Double cardon front shafts in decent shape?

My brothers HJ60 is a SOA with OME 2.5's and the front is set up for a DC but only has a single. The rear the pinion is half pointed at the t case and the single cardon its got now vibrates like hell. I would rather do this all once right the first time.

The plan for the front is to just install the DC (as long as its the right length). The rear is going to need a bit more work got a couple of choices. I can cut off the spring pads and point the pinion up or use shims. Shims are easy......cut and re-weld is the right way to do it. When I do this we would need to exstend the 60 series double cardon to fit the rear.

I do have mini truck DC's that I could use but am not sure if they would be better or any advantage to that at all. if i cant find decent 60 series DC's then its my only option.

If I have to use the Mini truck DC's can I use just the DC end of it and use the 60 pinion end?

Anyone ever done this before and what did you do?

Main question right now is does anyone have any 60 series DC sitting around in decent shape we can use?

Thanks!
 

Granite Grinder

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I'm guessing you'll need to customize you shafts, I would try to acquire another mini truck or LC DC and use it for the front. If he has a vibration coming from the rear shaft putting the DC in there should solve that. Generally we don't do much high speed with the front locked, you might be able to get away with the stock shaft for wheeling only, there may be a problem with the u joint binding. In an ideal world, the proper solution is a couple of custom shafts with DC's. Usually a fairly expensive endeavor, but worth it. With a custom shaft you can get a lot longer splines as well, so less worry that the slip yoke will fall out of the shaft. Unless someone speaks up about local driveline specialists, which I have heard nothing good about, I'd call these guys and get an estimate: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist excellent investment, great peace of mind. Check out the Super-Flex u joints, this might be a viable solution for the front, again assuming no high speed.
 
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Yes, I do.

And they are even rebuilt double cardens.

Shoot me a pm with your email addy

gb
 
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I'm guessing you'll need to customize you shafts, I would try to acquire another mini truck or LC DC and use it for the front. If he has a vibration coming from the rear shaft putting the DC in there should solve that. Generally we don't do much high speed with the front locked, you might be able to get away with the stock shaft for wheeling only, there may be a problem with the u joint binding. In an ideal world, the proper solution is a couple of custom shafts with DC's. Usually a fairly expensive endeavor, but worth it. With a custom shaft you can get a lot longer splines as well, so less worry that the slip yoke will fall out of the shaft. Unless someone speaks up about local driveline specialists, which I have heard nothing good about, I'd call these guys and get an estimate: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist excellent investment, great peace of mind. Check out the Super-Flex u joints, this might be a viable solution for the front, again assuming no high speed.
Thanks again Phil!

I have had good success with Pat's Drive line in Port Kells. They made both the shafts for my 4runner SAS and a drive shaft for my 600hp Supra. Never had any problems with them.

Tom Woods is bay far the way to go if you have the $$ for it but in this case funds are limited. I'm trying to get this thing set up for as little as possible but also do it right. The last owner of the truck set it all up right but never spent the money on the shafts to finish it.

My brother would like to be able to use 4wd on the hwy in the winter for trips to Whistler and possibly a later summer early fall trip to Alaska. He is also looking at working a few seasons in the interior at a hotel or Ski resort.

I also like knowing something is working as it was meant to from the factory.

Thanks again for the help guys!

Greg_B: PMed
 

Granite Grinder

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I hear ya, when I sprung over my 40 series I opted for custom shafts front and rear with DC's. I had Pat make one and Drive Services make the other, both are still in service.
 
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Now you have me wondering what the hell I have for drive shafts in my soa 40, I really can't remember what we did. I want to say they are still stock, and I have never had any issues with slip joint length.
 

jfc

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Now you have me wondering what the hell I have for drive shafts in my soa 40, I really can't remember what we did. I want to say they are still stock, and I have never had any issues with slip joint length.
I think you have to take it wheeling to have issues:p

(from the guy who hasn't been in over a year);)
 

jfc

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Yes, I do.

And they are even rebuilt double cardens.

Shoot me a pm with your email addy

gb
SO they are rebuildible? , all the driveline guys always tell me that that once the center bearing is worn out it is garbage

oh and pats driveline in GP sucks.
 
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SO they are rebuildible? , all the driveline guys always tell me that that once the center bearing is worn out it is garbage

oh and pats driveline in GP sucks.
The centering ball is replaceable, although it can be a PITA.

The IFS DC joints don't generally have much angulation, mini truck and LC DC joints are essentially the same thing.

There are later DC joints found on 4Runners and others that are high angulation - if you have them side by side it is very obvious (like 20* compared to 45* if you tilt the joint over).

~John
 
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Oh, one more thing, generally with a 60 series, you do not need a DC joint in the rear shaft but it can help.

Check that the joint is not overly worn out. I find that GMB u-joints are far superior to the North American made offerings.

~John
 

pbgbottle

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i wouldn't think you would need a DC joint in the rear of a SOA 60 unless your huge?
i don't run one in my 40. just check the u-joints for wear and set your pinion angle correctly .
and the vibes should go away. ,:meh:
 
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Well it is SOA with OME Heavy's all round. I think the main problem is that the truck when the SOA was done was set up to run a double cardon rear shaft. Now after that was done maybe the DC it had (if ever) was broken or something but it did not have one when my brother got it and the one its got is in bad shape,

The front is set up with the pinion pointed right at the t case flange so it is for sure set up for a DC. The rear is about 4-5* down from the t case flange but 10* up from being parallel. I have no problem setting the pinion angle to run a DC in the rear.

If I bring the pinion angle down to make it parallel the slip will have next to no engagement and the shaft would have to be remade anyways. With pointing the pinion up at the t case and installing the double cardon end on the existing shaft we may get away with not having to get the shaft re tubed.

The IFS DC is less flexible than the 85 mini and 60 DC's but it can be clearanced to have almost the same angle as the 85 and 60 DC. Another option I have herd of is that a later Taco DC or Tundra DC bolt right on with out needing to re drill the t case flanges.
 

pbgbottle

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OH! i get ya .
another option for driveline mods .
i prefer this guy over Pats driveline. he was always cheaper
and same day service most of the time .
he shortened a shaft also while i waited ,watched and learned .

:cheers:

Driveline Services
10-12318 84 Ave, Surrey, BC V3W 0N2
(604) 572-3735 ‎



..........................
 
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We have the rear shaft out getting a 85 mini truck DC welded on for now. In the fall we are going to revisit the front shaft and hopefully find a used 60 series DC for it.

We'll report how the new shaft works when we get it back in a couple of days.
 
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On a side note we drained the t case to get the rear output flange off to re drill and the fluid that came out had a nice metallic sheen to it, When we pulled the seal there were a few metal bits on the back side of it as well. The t case for the most part it quiet just a light rotational sound at hwy speeds.

Fun fun!
 
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We have the rear shaft out getting a 85 mini truck DC welded on for now. In the fall we are going to revisit the front shaft and hopefully find a used 60 series DC for it.

We'll report how the new shaft works when we get it back in a couple of days.
Cool. I just got the driveshafts out of the shed today and took pictures. I have two 60 series rear driveshafts, good splines, one with a rebuilt double carden and one with a very good condition used double carden. Both balanced, and good to go. I think Mat ended up with the front that I had. Shoot me a pm if you still want the pictures.

gb
 
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Pat's messed up the re-drill of the T case flange, they drilled the holes slightly off and to big (LC size not mini truck size). Took it back this morning and the guy said that 2mm slop in the flange bolts is fine.....right. I politely asked them to re-drill it correctly this time. He said it would be on the bottom of there priority list and may not be done till mid next week (with a bit of attitude). I told him to make it right or do not bother doing it in the first place...(with a lot of attitude). Still said it would be next week maybe late tomorrow but probably mid next week.

Not going to be recommending them again I do not think, no idea what happened to the guy that use to be help full there but this new guy is an ass.

Will post up how the rest of this plays out.

Anyone have a spare split case rear output flange? (In case I need to do this myself)
 

Granite Grinder

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Hence my post about hearing nothing good. Pat's made my shaft when they still offered quality service. Like Jake, I went to Driveline Services for the second one after dealing with a snotty s*** at Pat's.
 

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