so what else to replace, HG gone (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 1, 2005
Threads
81
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835
Location
West of Seattle, not West Seattle
Get ready boys it is coming your way.

On the freeway this morning on cruise at about 72 mph. I'm on the phone, I feel the heater stop heating, I look the temp gauge is slightly above the middle and rising, oh Sh$t. I have about a mile to a pull off. I pull of she's running rough and the temp gauge is pegged. Engine off I have steam coming out both ends.

So now the HG is being repair what else should I do.

PHH was done 20K ago will redo
Injectors looking into the price


I am hoping no major damage was done because I caught it fast?

I spoke with Cdan and will be looking to placing some orders. I also spoke with Ben at Slee, to gain an understanding of the hours to repair as I consider my options, 100+ mile tow adds to the consideration. Ben recommended filling and trying to start. If it runs fine and you can keep it full of water, I might be able to drive it to the shop. Well, it ran rough not awful, just rough for about 10 seconds, I shut it off and cranked the key quickly a couple of minutes later and I think its hydro locked. She is at the shop now so I am just considering what else should I do.
 
dang, sorry to hear that. So, you only had a minute and a mile warning , eh?
dang...


everytime I read a story like this, every time my HG PM goes higher on the list...


I have my first alert system setup: digital measurement of temp with an alarm set up so I catch it early....
 
I'm really sorry to hear this Speyrod.

I do want to say something general here though:

Guys, if your truck even starts to overheat, TURN IT OFF! Don't try to limp even another inch, unless it's a true safety risk. Even if you're going to be blocking an intersection, tying up all the traffic trying to get over the bridge you're on, or whatever. Just shut it down and tell people sorry, it's busted; need a tow truck.

Curtis
 
E, that all the time about a mile or a minute. It just went that fast.

I think I jinx'd myself by talking about doing it as a PM.

CJF, it was a safety risk potentially slick freeway right around freezing. Start to finish getting up on a tow truck was 6hrs+ then getting it to the shop.
 
Bummer, man. If there's anything I can do to help, let me know. I was just coming off the high from my Blackstone report of no water/antifreeze in my oil and my MIL came on yesterday. P0420. I thought a 420 code was for excessive pot smoke in the intake, but it's actually bad cats or O2 sensors, so it looks like I've got some wrench time ahead of me after all. As long as I'm getting dirty anyway, I'd love to assist on head gasket surgery if you end up doing the work yourself. Give me a call.

Steve
 
i had my mechanic replace every hose that's under the hood. used toyota formed pieces and gates for the rest. also changed plugs, wires, and rebuilt the starter contacts.

best of luck.
 
Steve, thanks I was thinking of getting you and Chad and having a HG party. I had it towed to Over The Hill. I just don't have the time and W and James are as fair as you can find. I have been concerned about this and it finally happened. This way I'll have no concerns when I drive to AZ this spring break to visit the rents. I have some other PM I'll have done at the same time. But this suck as it was not in the budget.
 
Sorry to hear it.

Not that it matters, but how many miles on the rig?
 
speyrod said:
CJF, it was a safety risk potentially slick freeway right around freezing.

Speyrod,

Definitely did not mean to imply you should have done something different; you obviously did it right.

Sounds like you have it at a stand-up shop (is it in Portland?). Now you'll be good to go for what , another 2-300K?

Cheers,

Curtis
 
Get the parts from Cdan - valve grind kit gets you the gasket and other O rings and bits. I'd also order:

all heater and radiator hoses
alternator contacts
starter contacts'
thermostat and gasket
Red Toyota Coolant
spark plugs

I'd look into having someone clean and calibrate your injectors. I did one with and one without that procedure and ther'es a night and day difference with the clean on smooth beyond belief and more responsive to the throttle.

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
Get the parts from Cdan - valve grind kit gets you the gasket and other O rings and bits. I'd also order:

all heater and radiator hoses
alternator contacts
starter contacts'
thermostat and gasket
Red Toyota Coolant
spark plugs

I'd look into having someone clean and calibrate your injectors. I did one with and one without that procedure and ther'es a night and day difference with the clean on smooth beyond belief and more responsive to the throttle.

DougM


Thanks Doug,

Did you have the injectors done local of send them out? or M.A.F? I had not thought of alt. contacts, starter was done two weeks ago. Also, would you have the head milled .10 again or just surfaced as required?
 
CJF said:
Speyrod,

Definitely did not mean to imply you should have done something different; you obviously did it right. But I know where youare coming from and no offense taken.

Sounds like you have it at a stand-up shop (is it in Portland?). Now you'll be good to go for what , another 2-300K?

Cheers,

Curtis


Curtis,

Don't know if its right or not, hopefully everything is ok with no extra damage.

Yes these guys are in Portland real good guys. I told my wife it good for another 150 - 200K although in the couple of years it becomes a dedicated fishing camping ride.
 
there is a place in California that gives a pretty quick turn around. I also remember a thread talking about diesel shops?? being able to clean them just as well and they are all over the place. Don't remember the specifics, but something to search for. I'd change the plugs, plug wires, dizzy, rotor, fuel filter and have the throttle body cleaned out. Have the valves checked and potentially resealed. Have the head milled to provide a little extra power.

Hopefully you did not warp the head too much when you tried to drive it.

Good Luck!
 
Well looks like

injectors,

valve grind set, plugs, wires, hoses are good, alt contacts. and therm!

any last things before I call Dan?

Is there a real benefit from milling the head? if so how much material to remove?
 
speyrod said:
Get ready boys it is coming your way.

On the freeway this morning on cruise at about 72 mph. I'm on the phone, I feel the heater stop heating, I look the temp gauge is slightly above the middle and rising, oh Sh$t. I have about a mile to a pull off. I pull of she's running rough and the temp gauge is pegged. Engine off I have steam coming out both ends.

So now the HG is being repair what else should I do.

PHH was done 20K ago will redo
Injectors looking into the price


I am hoping no major damage was done because I caught it fast?

I spoke with Cdan and will be looking to placing some orders. I also spoke with Ben at Slee, to gain an understanding of the hours to repair as I consider my options, 100+ mile tow adds to the consideration. Ben recommended filling and trying to start. If it runs fine and you can keep it full of water, I might be able to drive it to the shop. Well, it ran rough not awful, just rough for about 10 seconds, I shut it off and cranked the key quickly a couple of minutes later and I think its hydro locked. She is at the shop now so I am just considering what else should I do.

speyrod,
Sorry to hear that. Just got my locked 94 141K back from Robbie last Friday. Through my conversations with Cdan and Robbie this is my list.
Items replaced:

HG
new (cleaned) injectors
H20 pump
Fan clutch
new vacuum hoses and heater hoses
New PCV valve
Head cleaned, milled and full valve seat (3-way) grind
Intake Manifold cleaned
New Dist O-ring
New EGR gasket
New PHH (that was replaced less than 1000K ago)
I WOULD do the thermostat and or radiator if you have not already done so. Also belts and radiator hoses if not done recently. If you have to do any of this in the next 2 years, you will be paying for labor twice. Unless you want to do it yourself. Sure seems to make sense to do it all at the same time IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT. The cool thing was Robbie had some injectors coming back, so it only took 5 days for all the work. He might have already sent my old injectors out for cal.

Think of this as an investment in the next 150K on YOUR truck. I did not have the money for this, but I paid for it never the less.
Not to take anything away from Ben or Christo (have had awesome experience with Slee), but I was extremely pleased that Robbie did mine. I think he has 20-30 1FZJ HG under his belt.
Keep in mind, you basically have an entirely new 'top end' if you go this route. The cost at a dealer could have easily been 1K more than what I paid.

How much was the tow????

Oh, I almost forgot the Doug suggestion....................I ordered new exhaust manifold bolts and studs. Robbie only had to use one bolt, so that was nice insurance. I did however have to special order those from Dan. Let me know if you have a time issue, and you could probably get mine.
 
Last edited:
speyrod said:
Well looks like

injectors,

valve grind set, plugs, wires, hoses are good, alt contacts. and therm!

any last things before I call Dan?

Is there a real benefit from milling the head? if so how much material to remove?
are you saying that your hoses are good or that it's good to replace them?
 
Mr. Salty - How do you like my old injectors?? I don't know if you got mine, but Robbie has one set and he takes the ones he removes and has them cleaned and they are on the shelf for the next customer.
 
Romer said:
Mr. Salty - How do you like my old injectors?? I don't know if you got mine, but Robbie has one set and he takes the ones he removes and has them cleaned and they are on the shelf for the next customer.

Romer,
They frickin' rock, if for no other reason than I had ZERO wait time for my PM. Robble was just getting them back right before I got him my rig. Funny, but the attention to detail and professionalism seemed to help the queasy feeling I got when my cash made a whoosh sound that I can only describe a emotionally disturbing. Robbie also was able to have the machine shop turn around the head in very little time. Repairs suck to pay for, but having a mechanic who gets things done quick and correct is becoming a noelty today. For less than I would have paid, waited for and BETTER QUALITY if I had the dealer perform the work. I have had nothing but positive experiences with having work done on my Cruiser.

Chris
 
ace10 said:
are you saying that your hoses are good or that it's good to replace them?


Hoses are in good shape a number have been replaced. I will do the PHH again just because.

I went through a list with Dan and ordered

HG valve grind kit
H20 pump
Fan clutch
new vacuum hoses and heater hoses
New Dist O-ring
New EGR gasket
a couple of hoses
Alternator brushes

I am also sending the injectors to a place Robbie recommended, thanks Robbie!


The tow was reasonable my insurance co (USAA) also covers my road side assist. When I called in weighing the options, we discussed towing to a dealer. I mentioned one that was 28 miles away and discussed the overage. Although in the direction I wanted to go. She remarked that she would call a couple of tow companies and negotiate a rate if she could, well $2.00 a mile overage based on mapquest mileage. That was about half and I got the first 28 plus the pick up free (well included).
 

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