SO MANY CODES. Where should I start? C0278/C1223/C1231/C1241/C1253/C1256/C1340 (1 Viewer)

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Oct 26, 2020
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Location
Nashville, TN
Hello All. I am new to this community. I had the opportunity to purchase a 2000 LX470(342k miles) for $800. After Reddit told me they would beat me if I didnt buy it, I did. I knew it had some issues but not sure where to start. I have searched all over this site and others and many people have the same issues, but there are so many directions to go when beginning to tackle the issue. I downloaded Techstream and purchased the OBDII adapter and was able to pull the following codes:
20201025_194947.jpg

C0278 - Open or Short in ABS Solenoid Relay Circuit
C1223 - ABS Control System Malfunction
C1231 - Steering Angle Sensor
C1241 - Low Battery Positive Voltage or Abnormally High Battery Positive Voltage
C1253 - Hydro-Booster Pump Motor Relay
C1256 - ACCumulator Low Pressure
C1340 - Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal(During Center Differential Lock ON)

Dash Lights:
ABS
VSC TRAC
VSC OFF

BRAKE




The previous owner mentioned the issue that many have described regarding the anti skid feature. Higher speed turn when the car takes over and brakes the wheel it thinks is spinning. I have only driven this vehicle once, but it did fine. Engine sounded great and the brakes worked as expected, alignment was good. I kept the speed to below 30mph. The battery was super dead when I first tried to start it, couldn't jump it with another vehicle, couldn't start it with my battery charger with 200Amp starting mode. I left it on overnight at lower amps and it started the next day. It has started fine everyday for a week but last night I was cleaning it out and tried to start it but, no go. It seems to have an intermittently weak battery. Wouldn't start with 200amp starting mode. I left the cables on for about 5 minutes at 40amp and it fired right up. I am getting 12.5 volts off of the battery with car off. One side note, I am not sure this battery is the proper battery for the vehicle. I have read here that a bad battery can create a lot of codes, but can a bad battery create the issues with the traction control?

What I know about the vehicle:
- There is history of dangerous traction control take over at high speed
- Tires are all the same, although tread is low
- Everything is stock
- possible wrong battery shows 12.5 volts disconnected(terminals didn't look great)
- There was a leak in the sunroof over the passenger seat- I have read about water running down into wiring harnesses but I'm not sure if I want to take out the dash to go snooping just yet. The leak was sealed up and hasn't been leaking for some time. I would imagine that everything would have dried out by now. Where would I start to look if I wanted to track where that water might have travelled?

Thank you in advance for your help!
 
Looks like a bad brake booster to start. Sit down before you research that a ton. Flipside: I think I've read that poor grounding can cause those faults also.

My Toyotas so far seem sensitive to proper electrical grounding. To be sure that's your issue, grab a Group 27 battery (stock size) since that seems to be a problem also, and you'll know for sure. Test yours at a minimum. Check/clean your grounds also. Free/easy fix if that's the problem.

If there are aftermarket add-on harnesses, you can leave them off for a while to make sure they aren't causing a parasitic draw. Clear this part up first to make sure that your electric system is in good shape, and work your way down from there.

Traction control...sounds like you got the gist of it. Something is off in the front—loose wheel bearings, worn components, or the like. It takes getting to high speed sometimes to get the difference in sensors high enough for the system to take action. This has happened to me, and the cure was replacing all the wear components up front. Wheel bearings (likely need adjustment, not replacement, but check), TREs, play in the steering rack, etc. There is a thread on installing a switch to simply turn VSC off (VSC OFF switch install.), but the flip side of that is you might ignore critical wear components. Think of it as a warning you get somewhere ahead of a failure.

Sunroof leaks run down the a-pillars, right into the guts of the electrical system. Hope that's not your issue.

It's going to be a real PITA to fix up. I'll give you $850 :flipoff2:. Saw your thread on Reddit, glad you got it.
 
Start simple - if you think the battery is the wrong size then switch it out for a new one at any auto parts store, Walmart, Costco, etc... Low voltage has been known to cause ABS and other traction lights to come in other vehicles, so I assume the same could happen in our 100 series. If you're seeing 12.5V with the truck off but less than 13.8V when running then you most likely have an issue with your alternator; either the brushes are too worn or the voltage regulator within it is faulty. That should be your second step. After that I'd say clear all those codes using Techstream and then see if any reoccur. You could potentially be looking at a brake booster issue as well, but you really need to go through the process of elimination before jumping to that conclusion since that can be a very expensive & tedious repair. The traction control takeover issue is well documented here and most of the time can be remedied by refurbing wheel bearings, wheel speed sensor, ABS ring, etc.. You certainly have your work cut out for you!
 
As the others noted above, I'd start with trying to find and resolve an electrical issue (e.g., ground wire, battery, alternator, loose/broken electrical connectors, etc.). Code C1241 is the start of your troubleshooting - fix it and the others may go away.
 

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